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Gazzar

Cheap Chinese stereo heads

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Fit another lighter through the ignition? You could put it behind the dash somewhere so it's hidden to keep things looking 'series' ;)

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On 11/06/2018 at 8:48 PM, lo-fi said:

What Bowie said plus a cheap Bluetooth A2DP module to put on the end of the 3.5mm jack. Ain't nobody got time for plugging stuff in :rolleyes:

Thanks lo-fi. I've been looking for a Bluetooth A2DP module, but I didn't know what they were called. I gave up trying to search for it on teh Internet. Once I read your post, 2 minutes searching, I'm £12.99 poorer and eagerly awaiting my Ebay purchase.

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Easy when you know what you're searching for :) Glad the post helped someone! 

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I think that's a good plan. 

When I do the refurb, that's the route I'll go. But for now I have this to test.

IMG_20180615_211214.jpg

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I think my speakers are carp.

They'll do. This isn't a project.

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Oh God.

You are psychic.

Roof driver speaker cone is wrecked.

Permanent live isn't permanent enough to avoid having to enter the code each time.

Driver door speaker cable is broken.

It's turning into a project.

 

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But the blue tooth cheap FM transmitter is quite good, despite the bizarre accent of the voice over informing me the phone is connected!

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How do I overcome the permanent live issue? It only stops when the starter is engaged.

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find live whilst cranking(acc live goes off whilst cranking but obviously ecus etc need it on all the time) (feed to the stop solenoid on diesels will do) and and tap into that.

Edited by qwakers

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Yes, that might work, but wouldn't that drop power when I stop the engine? 

I think I'll have to take a feed from the permanent live to the ignition switch. 

It's a project.

 

Gah.

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Okay, project plan:

 

1) Dash

  • Replace original heater motor inline fuse by using the spare fuse holder
  • Find real permanent live and switch radio supply to this.
  • fit switched cigar lighter to dash somewhere so bluetooth thing can be left in permanently.

2) Roof

  • Remove lining
  • Line roof with some anti condensation material
  • Extend the too short speaker wires
  • Clean lining and refit
  • fit new speakers 

3) Doors

  • Remove door linings
  • groan at state of door frames
  • resolve to get them blasted and zinc sprayed someday
  • spray zinc paint on the rust
  • refit and fit new speakers

4) Listen to tdi200 engine drowning out speakers, bluetooth and everything else.

 

Who makes decent speakers these days?

 

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Is it a diesel?  The ignition switch on those cuts power to everything but the starter and glow plugs when cranking to have the best chance of starting.  Petrol models obviously didn't do this because the ignition needed a supply and didn't need to because the lower compression ratio didn't need all the battery power.  I think the dash power sockets are still directly connected to the battery on diesels, just like they are on petrols, so taking the live feed from there for the memory circuit should work.

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2 hours ago, Snagger said:

Is it a diesel?  The ignition switch on those cuts power to everything but the starter and glow plugs when cranking to have the best chance of starting.  Petrol models obviously didn't do this because the ignition needed a supply and didn't need to because the lower compression ratio didn't need all the battery power.  I think the dash power sockets are still directly connected to the battery on diesels, just like they are on petrols, so taking the live feed from there for the memory circuit should work.

Diesels maintain power to the FIP stop solenoid during cranking too, otherwise it won’t start. Assuming 200Tdi as per above.

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It's a TDI in a petrol model.

I think I swapped the switch on the ignition when I converted it. I'll play with the multi meter. 

I'll insulate the roof, too. No point in doing it half assed.

I still don't get using the fip cut off source, surely that drops when I switch off?

Unless I take a supply from before that gets switched......

All good fun, to be honest.

Now, why don't speaker companies give the dimensions of their speaker mounts? I'm looking at you, JBL.

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all ignition fed sources are killed when you switched off. if youre on a feed that kills when it starts then itll kill when you switch ign off too.

 

your only viable option is a feed direct from battery. its actually easier than from the back of the fusebox or ignition switch anyway.

Edited by qwakers

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Back of the ignition was the first port of call, to be honest, but I hate may about with that part of the loom. Awkward to get to.

 

I'll try get to it this week.

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Back of the ignition was the first port of call, to be honest, but I hate may about with that part of the loom. Awkward to get to.

 

I'll try get to it this week.

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14 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:

Diesels maintain power to the FIP stop solenoid during cranking too, otherwise it won’t start. Assuming 200Tdi as per above.

I meant is it a SIII diesel, or by extension, does it have the ignition switch of a SIII diesel for the reasons I mentioned.  90/110 diesels using 12J and later use a SIII petrol ignition switch and the glow plug relay, and they use relays for the starter solenoid.  They don't need to cut off all power to the rest of the vehicle as starter motors were more efficient by the time they were developed, batteries had more cold cranking power and the new engines use a fuel solenoid, not a cable operated shutoff valve.

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14 hours ago, Gazzar said:

It's a TDI in a petrol model.

I think I swapped the switch on the ignition when I converted it. I'll play with the multi meter. 

I'll insulate the roof, too. No point in doing it half assed.

I still don't get using the fip cut off source, surely that drops when I switch off?

Unless I take a supply from before that gets switched......

All good fun, to be honest.

Now, why don't speaker companies give the dimensions of their speaker mounts? I'm looking at you, JBL.

If the ignition switch controls the fuel solenoid, you must still have the petrol switch.  If you had the diesel switch, you'd need a separate switch with permanent live for the fuel solenoid.

As Quakkers says, you need a permanent live for the stereo's memory circuits.  The switched live is the main stereo circuit that it operates on, normally to the I position of the switch so that you can have the stereo on with the minimum of live circuits (minimum battery drain), killing the stereo main circuit when you turn the ignition to 0.  The memory circuit current draw is very small compared to the main circuit.

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I do have both circuits going to the head, but the permanent drops for a second whilst starting - so it's not a true permanent.  I'll leave for a bit - I'm ordering some terminals and other parts, so I'll get to it when time presents.

 

 

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Not quite 2 years ago, but I'm finally getting to this. (Thread revival)

 

The permanent feed is to the battery, the battery voltage drops too much.

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I need a mechless Bluetooth head unit with a LCD display, and mechanical buttons.

I think.

I'll have to trawl through Amazon, I suppose.

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You could have had the one out of the P38 - although I don't think it was mechless...

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