Jump to content
dangerous doug

New product from xcess4x4

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Reason for this product being jumped to the front of the queue is

 

I have bent my casing !

I've done mine winching I think where the rear axle got locked onto something - and it does take much to bend the LR Std casings.

Similarly these are going to be for comp safari racers - land ing hard on one wheel bends long side up, and or challenege trucks where peeps are running as I am 35s or current trend 37 treps.

I can pretty much just about lift my 35s onto my hubs , 37 treps no way soooo heavy, this trend of 37s in challenges see hugely heavy tyres up in the air say 3 maybe 4 feet or more then coming down hard ....

 

These trusses I made are 3mm Domex, which is a crazy metal grade - 3 x structural strength of mild / s275 steel, so it as if it 9mm, but without the weight, plus, to weld on 6 or 9mm steel to a tube means MORE amps and more distortion.

The holes are there to allow pressure washing out, and drain holes too. the fit I hope is as close as I can get - I have 5 x axle casings and they all measure differently ! (LR "Tolerances" so the trick is for me to make a set which sort of fits all casings closely...so far so good, this is mark 1 prototype set.

The rear axle is the most prone - longest and thus why there are 3 x bits for rear - 1 x bit goes diff casing to spring seat 2nd bit spring seat to stub, 3rd piece is a 12mm plate on top of spring seat and all 3 welded together, you can even weld the circular spring base plate to the set up as well !"..Plate them locks over the top of the riser plate and the longer Bolts and Nuts etc bolt it all up - see pic 

All done on solid works, and stress analysis shows that the long side is prone. 

Short unlikely to bend. Yes the next weak part is the actual end stubs which are friction welded on, but its more than tricky to link to these for all sorts of reasons, and again the stress analysis shows shearing these off will se tube dmage and turn to scrap ...trussed or not !

 

I have kept the welding and the gaps to weld down to a minimum to stop distortion, and its always a compromise, there is also the "I can make those anyway" peeps like me lol who will look at something and just make it vs spending out..

 

My idea here was to make them light F strong and priced where it sort of "Cant be bothered to make them when I can but a set at that money" sort of thing.

1st 32 sets were done as a special promotion price on the promises of feedback to make next batch better - so far front is all thumbs up rear coming in now and yes there are some wildly differing axle designs esp around the A Frame ball joint area and enough I will need to find solutions, one is to have the rear made for the worst, with dotted cut lines to remove if not wanted and welded over if needed, or maybe a filet set to cover the various types...time will tell. 

Also I am going to add top slot in and out for arb lines and brake lines to go in / come out of to protect etc

Its been on the to do list for some serious time, I was never impressed with the KAM 6mm plate ones made whilst I was there - were done in a lunch hour as a rough design - and never made better , poor fit means huge weld gaps to plug up = distortion ..heavy ...no drain holes... and not really thought through and pig ugly to boot lol and expensive too !

I am chuffed with these so far but can defo get them better yet !

 

as with all things LR beef up one bit and you move the weak spot elsewhere, with me doing super strong pegged diffs, and ashcrofts with shafts CVs etc, these seem a natural thing to add to my armoury of options, so far take up stunned me !..as for weak spots mine has moved to bending long rear axle tube and tearing props in half lol

Rear pics 

 



Nige

 

 

36654085_2079353855653227_3345212257188446208_o.jpg

36609454_2079353945653218_4327973359460548608_o.jpg

36911451_10156579989764198_7737593861047844864_n.jpg

36893869_2086894814899131_5771311438702313472_n.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, RedLineMike said:

from compsafari'ing, the weight of the diff can also be a cause in bending the tubes from repeated heavy landings

 

Didn't think of that, and I guess if you land on the middle of the axle you've got all the weight there too!

20 hours ago, Dave W said:

I have, bent the rear axle on my motor, probably on the Outback Challenge. Took ages to figure out that it was bent though, the rear diff lock would leak air under load (fine on the drive) and I spent a LOT of time trying to fix it. New air seals, rebuilt the diff, replaced shafts, all the pipework etc...

In the end, out of desperation, swapped the axle casing for a spare and, lo and behold, never had an issue again. The axle wasn't bent much, just a few mm but the slight misalignment where the half shaft went into the diff must have been twisting it enough to unseal the O ring and let the air out. Think it was due to a heavy landing at speed but I don't actually know for certain when I bent it, could have been on a trial ! The problem first appeared about 6 months after getting the motor back from Australia.

That was the problem I had with the SJ too, the locking diff wouldn't work but it was quite happy on a stock open diff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:

there is also the "I can make those anyway" peeps

I always wondered why people spend so much upgrading land rover axles instead of fitting stronger axles off something else. Maybe because they can do it bit by bit with Ashcroft / your stuff, maybe because they're worried about the legalities of a road vehicle made from bits and pieces, or maybe the fabrication side is beyond what they are comfortable doing. With that in mind have you considered an exchange service, like when you have a gearbox reconditioned? Might appeal to more people if they don't have to weld it on and risk getting it wrong?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Cynic-al said:

I always wondered why people spend so much upgrading land rover axles instead of fitting stronger axles off something else. Maybe because they can do it bit by bit with Ashcroft / your stuff, maybe because they're worried about the legalities of a road vehicle made from bits and pieces, or maybe the fabrication side is beyond what they are comfortable doing. With that in mind have you considered an exchange service, like when you have a gearbox reconditioned? Might appeal to more people if they don't have to weld it on and risk getting it wrong?

Prob is 

 

A. Time lol I have a 3-4 week lead time and am working prob 5 - 6 days week 10-12 hrs a day ! LOL so much for semi retirement :D

B. Casings could be exchanged from as new to hanging ...I can hear the sqaubbling now lol

C. Most peeps who can't weld know someone who can, and the instructions are super clear as to methos of how to do it !

Nige

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/24/2018 at 7:42 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

Never heard of that one, thought all Sals were the same?

130's and HD110 Sals use heavier wall tube

 

[edit]Oops, already answered.

Edited by rick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back in 2009 I participated in the transgothica raid in poland which had approx 1000km of highspeed roadbook spiced with specialtracks along the way. Seeing day 4-6 everybody nomatter carmake, be it land rover, suzuki, jeep cj, jeep on volvo portals, toyota were cutting a slot in the underside of their frontaxletubes and welding it to regain some kind of castor correction. My point being, std axels used in anger even without to much airtime will bend even from the stress of hitting potholes alone 😀

/mads

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy