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Here we go again... pre-MoT work


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Done a bit of work today... but had to come inside to escape the heat of the Scottish summer...

The theme of today has been: "And the easy shall be hard, but the hard shall be easy"  :D

first up was the hub nut... after getting all psyched up and thinking I would break my (non impact) socket, it just whizzed off a dream :)

20180722_105744.thumb.jpg.287ccc2c3332f8aee54d1d940c624cd3.jpg

 

Next came these twelve-point bolts that hold the camper carrier, which I thought would be easy but which took a 2ft extension to shift!20180722_105807.thumb.jpg.5fbcf7bad88de823efbbaa090d2517a3.jpg

20180722_110140.thumb.jpg.1fcacf0ff19a18a16f860efcbb800931.jpg

Then the rotor - with impact driver I positioned the biggest pozi head I had in the rotor retaining screw, got ready with the hammer, applied some undo-torque and.... it came loose :) The actual rotor followed suit (easy) as did 4off TRE's, but the dust shield bolts (7mm AF) are staying put since they WOULD not move :(

The actual hub retaining bolts were easy but the hub too 30 mins to even get to going, but it's off now.

I'm wondering whether to replace the heavily corroded CV joint, bit it seems in ok condition apart from that...

Later I'll be back out once it cooles off a bit.

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Just realised, the disc shields need to come off or I can't use the 'two hammers' technique on the ball joints.

What is the current thinking on these shields? A few years ago everybody i knew just ran without them - is the thinking still the same?

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21 hours ago, ThreeSheds said:

Just realised, the disc shields need to come off or I can't use the 'two hammers' technique on the ball joints.

What is the current thinking on these shields? A few years ago everybody i knew just ran without them - is the thinking still the same?

mine rotted off years ago.  still past it's MOT this year without them. 

My personal opinion,  is that it's better without them.  You don't get big stones and mud jammed in between the brake disc and the backing plate.. 

 

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Never mind the quality, feel the width :D

I never realised these were so HUGE...

20180724_171047.thumb.jpg.0ec3a383a01275311c3283a4f49d390a.jpg

 

Like Christmas :)20180724_172045.thumb.jpg.0853e902d9825de23c593c2ca532c00a.jpg

heavy duty track rod and drag link

gaiter clips an pliers

window eyebrows 

heater hose and ball joint press. More to come before the weekend I hope.

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11 hours ago, David Sparkes said:

When using any device with a forcing screw I HIGHLY recommend the complete thread is well lubricated with EP90 (a product I expect every LR maintenance person to have to hand).

Regards

Good advice... I also intend to run it back and forth a dozen or so times (no load) with the the rattle gun before use...

It's only a cheap one  and the thread does look a bit ropey, but I suspect/hope it will do the job

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20 minutes ago, bear said:

Looking forward to the pics as you do the ball joints. Hope you are luckier than me 😊

Well so far I am having trouble even getting the hub off ( the top taper split with only a few double-hammer taps and I thought "oh, how nice... Hope the bottom one is as easy" - that was two hours of hammering ago) so I'm nowhere near the normally more difficult bit of pushing the joints out... But I'll certainly let you know how it goes...

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36 minutes ago, ThreeSheds said:

Well so far I am having trouble even getting the hub off ( the top taper split with only a few double-hammer taps and I thought "oh, how nice... Hope the bottom one is as easy" - that was two hours of hammering ago) so I'm nowhere near the normally more difficult bit of pushing the joints out... But I'll certainly let you know how it goes...

 My heart goes out to you. 2 hours of hammering and probably a thousand swear words...   I think we've all been in that predicament 

But As the saying goes... If at first you don't succeed,  get a bigger hammer. 

Nearly every job on my D1 requires brute force and ignorance.. 

Hope you get there.  

Love your shiney new track rod.. 😀

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13 minutes ago, bear said:

Hi, I don't think you need to remove the collet in the steering knuckle at the bottom. I didn't.

I was more cleaning it than removing it... But don't you need to adjust it on reassembly if you are fitting new ball joints?

Maybe I am not understanding this, but I thought that the process for fitting the 'knuckle' after the new ball joints are installed, was:

  1. fit the knuckle over the two ball joint tapers
  2. do up the top ball joint taper nut
  3. Adjust the collet to remove any slack
  4. do up the bottom ball joint taper nut

Perhaps you could clarify please?

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Hi, From what I've read on other forums and seen on YouTube you only have to do the adjustment for the Range Rover with the same axle. It is not necessary on the D2.

I'm sure the more knowledgable will be along soon.

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On 7/22/2018 at 8:43 PM, ThreeSheds said:

Just realised, the disc shields need to come off or I can't use the 'two hammers' technique on the ball joints.

What is the current thinking on these shields? A few years ago everybody i knew just ran without them - is the thinking still the same?

Removed all 4 from my 110 last year, MOT passed with no problem or mention of mising items. 

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Got an arrangement that looks like it would work (I cut the thread off the ball joint for clearance first)

20180730_190925.thumb.jpg.b947afad097f2b8fddddeb9a5ce78597.jpg

And hit it here (after tightening to the torque of earghhhh)

20180730_191626.thumb.jpg.a5de7cfb372cf613bba0b26abffe14bf.jpg

And never was there so much joy over so little movement!

20180730_191436.thumb.jpg.7cfd652e3a73ab44feef51c69e144cde.jpg

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