Td5 fuel tank

[ianmayco68]

Hi all , I’ve modded my 300tdi 90 project and fitted a td5 fuel tank but having read a few threads I’ve noticed that the tank guard causes a lot of problems at later dates when removing, so have any of you modded the guard so it’s easier to remove and refit ? 

And also I’ve read somewhere about cutting an inspection hatch in the tub floor so you can remove and refit the fuel tank sender with out removing the tank but for the life of me I can’t find were I’ve read it , so would any one have some measurements of where the hole should be cut in the tub floor ?

Any help much appreciated Ian 

[Scotts90]

I think it's mentioned on Les Brocks' ground up rebuild thread as he fitted the td5 tank too, cutting an access hatch in the process. I didn't bother , if need be I'll just drill the rivets off the floor...it's just a sender unit so the worst it's going to be is a knackered fuel gauge unlike a td5 that has the pump unit. It may be more beneficial on the td5 build to have an access panel.

As for the cradle it's not so much as a problem, just one of those jobs that needs some thoughtful jacking/propping/supporting...more so with a full tank. The tank itself is a snug fit in between the chassis legs with some wiggling required to get the filler neck up through the gap for the body support.

[ianmayco68]

Cheers Scott , that’s were I must have read it , got the measurements now . The problem I’ve got is mine’s a 300tdi cross member so it hasn’t got the access holes in it so you can tighten the nuts up on the guard that go through it . Have found a thread off here were someone has done this and he welded to bits of angle iron onto the guard so it bolts on through the bottom of the rear cross member, which should make life easier.

Does anyone know were you can buy the fuel line fittings that go on to the tank sender unit from ? Or is it a case of buying some fuel lines and cutting them off , which is what I’ve read someone on here did.

Edited July 30, 2018 by ianmayco68

[cackshifter]

^{YRM's guard bolts up to , rather than sits on the chassis, so will be much more easily removed. Paddocks have a similar looking one that may be the same. But neither will overcome your lack of access to the bolt heads at the crossmember - I think you may need to modify the crossmember, or add brackets}

[ianmayco68]

 Cheers cackshifter , I brought an oem one so have modified it . Copied someone on here that welded some angle onto the guard then I’ll weld some nuts onto the inside of the rear cross member so you can bolt it from underneath . The side brackets I got off gdi  products on eBay they’re like the originals but going to weld nuts on the inside then drill the guard out so again you can bolt it from underneath. Will upload the photos later on of what I’ve done into my build thread .

[cackshifter]

The original is great if you start the build with it, otherwise it makes it quite hard to work on the thank. Your mods should do the trick.

[Scotts90]

My fuel hoses are pushed onto the sender pipes and secured with fuel pipe clips...not the standard pain in the **** fuel pipe connections.

[ianmayco68]

Cheers Scott , that’s good to know , just saved me £50 .

[oneandtwo]

The proper qr connectors for the puma/tdci tank are only £4 each. I used them and Oem spec rigid nylon pipe to make my ROW fuel lines, save rubber hose from perishing in the future.

[Scotts90]

Replaced the nylon hoses (tank to filter head) on both td5 D2s I had due to them chafing through, may not rot but still prone to failure. Complete swine of a job! You can get the QR clips on eBay for £2 ea but of the usual Chinese unbranded spec.

Do you have a link for the Puma ones?