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Series 3 instrument voltage stabilizer


Gazzar

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I think the voltage stabilizer is failing on the 109, the temp and fuel gauge are both under reading. 

What's the most reliable replacement? Genuine or solid state?

G.

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Solid state would be a relais... don't think that would do any good (unless you have it pulse at a high speed to is spits out.... 10??? volts).

What is the spec on that?

An adjustable output voltage regulator would be my approach. Set it to the correct voltage (believe it was 10v) and seal it...
example https://www.banggood.com/DC-DC-Boost-Buck-Adjustable-Step-Up-Step-Down-Automatic-Converter-XL6009-Module-p-1087346.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

Something based on LM7810 would also be good enough if the max draw is ~1.5A (preferrably draw WAY less as the leftover is dispensated as heat).
example: https://www.ebay.com/p/10v-DC-Voltage-Regulator-Module-Board-Based-on-7810/918099164?iid=191225808693
 

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It's an analogue device, bi metallic strip.

Multi metres struggle to cope.

I will check the earth, it earths against the instrument casing, so I'll check all of that.

Thanks.

 

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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:

It's an analogue device, bi metallic strip.

Multi metres struggle to cope.

I will check the earth, it earths against the instrument casing, so I'll check all of that.

Thanks.

 

Old Fords have the same issue. One fix is to run a separate earth from the binnacle to a known good earth point.

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^^^^^ i knew that the original switches the 12 volts or whatever the alternator delivers at any point but I'd always assumed the switched is much quicker. The output is a nominal 10V but I don't know how to work out what the "chop" frequency would need to be. (I might have known this at a point in the past but I've forgotten now). Is it really only 1Hz or less - just for interest?

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20 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

xychix - I think you mean electrolytic capacitors? The gauges don't need it, they react so slowly as the original regulator works by switching the voltage on/off every second or two (very slow).

in that case I'd go for a LM7810 for sure. some soldering, hotglue and a tape around the legs. piece of copper as heatsink to the back and mount to firewall

 

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  • 9 months later...

It's strange. I think the regulator is working better now. It's underreading, but not nearly as much as before.

I've been doing more miles recently, off and on road, and I think that might help. 

I'm going to change it anyway, but not until I get time.

So, that will be when I retire, I suppose.

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