ThreeSheds Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 Above... From the top, the original, the Bearmach (Well it came in a Bearmach box anyway), and the original LR part at over three times the cost of the middle one. So, what diameter was the original? About 44.35mm... And what diameter was the 'Bearmach' part? 45.2mm 😮 Unfortunately I only measured it after I had ruined it when my tool bent and slipped off: So, I hear you ask... what is the diameter of the LR part? ... ... 44.35mm also the overall quality is better with chamfers where they should be, etc. etc. I am busy for a few evenings now but hope to get it fitted before the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 I feel for you mate, I was much luckier with my Turkish ones. Just on the topic of Bearmach, I've just had a mix of brake parts from Paddocks, the in stock and first to arrive were Bearmach, seemed OK, but the second lot were Britpart . Comparing the brake pistons Britpart were shinier and seemed better finished, also the rubbers were softer and nicer to fit. I think it's all a bit of a lottery these days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 Well I decided to buy another G clamp/press thing... and it turns out that they are NOT 'all the same' ... The new one has a significantly coarser thread (a bad thing when you are after linear force) in fact it's five threads to the old one's six. Anyway - I decided to put the old one to good use and welded it to the new one as reinforcement, after checking that they are both steel not iron of course. It's not pretty but it's got to be stronger I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Love that, tempted to do that to mine anyway.... should stop it bowing out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 Finally... after two bottom ball joints and two presses... it's in:  There is a trick I'd like to pass on: how to straighten the joint If it starts to go in a bit cockeyed, just grind a bit if metal to fit the tightest part of the gap, then carry on tightening the screw: Worked a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Good tip. I had trouble with the top joint. Had real trouble getting it started. Griff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted August 23, 2018 Author Share Posted August 23, 2018 Top one went in ok... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Just spotted your location btw, used to live in Tough back in the 90's and in another life! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 3 hours ago, Blanco said: Just spotted your location btw, used to live in Tough back in the 90's and in another life! an 'oily' ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 1 hour ago, ThreeSheds said: an 'oily' ? Of a sort, project engineering, used to work for Stena (as was) in Westhill, when it was still a good business to be in... those were the days... before the bean counters got such a grip on things. Kept the cottage for a while, loved the spot and the neighbours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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