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Bigj66

TD5 110

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Hi all

I’ve just taken delivery of a 2004 110 TD5 that has the usual rotten door bottom on the drivers side. Rather than replace with another similar one I was wondering if the later improved Puma door was a straight swap?

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There are new, all-steel versions of the doors available at reasonable money if you do a google search, which are a direct swap.

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Yes, the later Puma doors are a straight swap, that's exactly what did with my 2004 90 with rotten door bottoms.

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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

There are new, all-steel versions of the doors available at reasonable money if you do a google search, which are a direct swap.

Do you mean the Puma ones? Or is someone making a better version of the original type?

 

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Out of stock at the moment but definitely on the list. Might fit the puma doorcards too so everything matches.

Some more questions.

What gearbox/transfer box combo should it have? It has the long gearstick so is that an LT77 with the 230 transfer box? Seems quite undergeared making first almost useless on the road so what is the tried and tested route for this? High ratio transfer gears as per the Ashcroft Series conversion or a different transfer box/diffs all together? Will the BW transfer box fit in place of the existing one? Tyres will be 265/75 and currently on 7.50 radials.

Clutch is very heavy so does the torsion spring kit that is sold actually work to lighten it? Towards the end of the pedal travel it becomes juddery as if something is binding. My first thoughts are either the master or slave cylinders (assuming it has them, will check in the manual) or maybe the linkage.

Heater is carp with no noticeable airflow even on the high setting although the motor can be heard running at both speeds. 

Brakes are ‘adequate’ at best so an overhaul or upgrade is on the cards. Not having driven one before are the Defender brakes usually quite sharp or more like a Series?

Headlights are also rubbish so looking at an LED conversion, any recommendations or warnings to stay clear?

The P.O. removed the cat as part of an engine upgrade and mapping using an Alisport intercooler, EGR removal and centre box removal. My understanding has always been that if the vehicle was built with a cat then it should always have one fitted for the MOT. Anyone know different?

Is the TD5 fitted with a rev limiter? When pushed the engine starts to falter until I ease off the throttle which I assume is a limiter but just want to check in case there’s something else I should be looking at like fuel starvation. After a good run I’ve noticed that as the revs drop say when coming off a motorway slip road and slowing down, the engine idles erratically for a few seconds before the idle settles down and becomes steady. The engine has been mapped by a chap local to the P.O. but quite conservatively by all accounts to produce somewhere around the 160bhp mark. There’s no noticeable smoke on hard acceleration which seems to be a good thing although suggesting that more performance may be available with a different map which might be needed if I increase the gearing.

Theres also a clunk from the rear when taking up drive so prop and diff need to be checked. Suspension seems to be pretty tight as does the steering but I can see it won’t be long before I develop the dreaded Landrover elbow due to the diameter of the steering wheel so maybe a smaller alternative will be on the cards although I do like the originality.

Finally, how easy is it to retrofit the heated screen, central locking and electric windows? Mine is the base model so not sure if the loom is different to other models or the same with certain plugs left disconnected or blanked.

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Rev limiter.......boost limiter kicking in because your wastegate is sticking. Probably.

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1 hour ago, Early90 said:

Rev limiter.......boost limiter kicking in because your wastegate is sticking. Probably.

Cheers, can you elaborate on that as it’s the first I’ve heard of that sort of issue? What would cause the sticking? I’m not sure if the wastegate was adjusted as part of the egr removal/mapping.

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2 hours ago, western said:

 

clutch pedal spring kit will make that lighter

Being a TD5 it will have the springs on the pedal already? 

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Next question, will the later Puma steering wheel swap with my original and have the indicator cancelling lug in the correct position?

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depends on what size spline the column is either 36 or 48,

this will show which LR genuine steering wheel will fit http://www.web-rover.co.uk/articles-steeringwheels.html

 

its most likely got type B fitted which is a 48 spline thick column, you can only swap to type D, if you don't want the big centre pad, then a Range Rover classic flat pad will fit, as on my '89 110's wheel.  the centre pds are just a push fit, there are a few flat RRC plads on ebay, I sprayed mine with matt black paint for a better match.https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/3456-my-new-steering-wheel/

 

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Pretty sure mine will be the 48 spline type B so looking for a smaller wheel diameter that still works with the column switches and need to check the diameter of the Puma wheel.

Found the problem with the heater blower, the cable leading from the speed switch to the heater is kinked at the back of the binnacle and needs to be renewed. I can only see th switch and cable assembly complete for around £80 on EBay so need to look further afield to see if the cable can be bought separately. If I move the flap by hand at the housing the airflow is fine.

Next query to add to all the others is the position of the handbrake. Wife Is complaining 🙄 that she needs to bend quite far to get to it and I must admit it does seem further away from the drivers seat than I remember but here is a photo. It does ‘lean’ to the left a fair bit rather than point straight up but again I’m not sure if that is how it was originally or if it’s been bent at some point.

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Next one is the roof skin around the windscreen which seems to have lifted where it is spot welded to the frame. Can this just be pop riveted back into place and is it a common failure point and source of leaks?

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Ignore the perished screen seal as a new one will be fitted next week along with a heated screen to replace the standard one.

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19 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Being a TD5 it will have the springs on the pedal already? 

No they are the only ones that DON’T have the assist spring!!

No idea why. But if you fit the little spring kit, it will make the clutch about 30% lighter.

HRW no the wiring isn’t there, but it’s not too hard to fit, get the screen fitted first and then you can buy the wiring/relay from Britpart. Make sure you order the kit with the TD5 centre console switch.

lf no air comes through the heater vents then it’s blocked somewhere, make sure the rubber valve in the bottom of the heater intake on the wing is not blocked up.

lf that happens water can pool in the heater intake and get into the motor.

 

Edited by Lightning

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Found the problem with the heater blower, the cable leading from the speed switch to the heater is kinked at the back of the binnacle and needs to be renewed.

bowden cable from left heater slider is available seperately its part number is AAP876.

 

handbrake lever does have a bias to the left but can be persuaded with a good shove to move to the right a bit, 

the centre of my handbrake lever is approx 21 inches from the end of the seatbox nearest the drivers door.

as for the front end of the roof, looks like its had a bad knock at sometime, doesn't usually pull the spotwelds, a rivetted repair might work 7 ensureis done with wet sealant asits pulled back in to place.

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, western said:

bowden cable from left heater slider is available seperately its part number is AAP876.

 

handbrake lever does have a bias to the left but can be persuaded with a good shove to move to the right a bit, 

the centre of my handbrake lever is approx 21 inches from the end of the seatbox nearest the drivers door.

as for the front end of the roof, looks like its had a bad knock at sometime, doesn't usually pull the spotwelds, a rivetted repair might work 7 ensureis done with wet sealant asits pulled back in to place.

 

 

 

I’m not sure that cable is the correct one for my heater. At the heater end where it connects to the lever arm there is a small fitted eye lug that slides on to a post and is secured in place by a spring washer. Hopefully the photo shows it up but it seems that the length is fixed and can not be adjusted as the other cables can on the top of the heater box. Struggling to find it even in the parts book.

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I also think I’m going to need a puller to remove my steering wheel to check the spline numbers. I’ve seen some on EBay but I’m wondering if anyone has used them on the standard defender wheel as it’s foam padded and I’m not sure the puller arms will not dig in to the back of the wheel and damage it. Anyone tried the ones for around a tenner?

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Try cable part -- JFF000140

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-JFF000140

 

the ebay steering wheel puller is good, I bought one ages ago.  pull the centre pad off, its only a press on fit, then there are 2 small threaded holes for the puller bolts & the big bolts acts on the column end, undo the nut but leave it at end of the column thread, then the wheel when it comes loose won't smack you in the face.

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3 hours ago, western said:

Try cable part -- JFF000140

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-JFF000140

 

the ebay steering wheel puller is good, I bought one ages ago.  pull the centre pad off, its only a press on fit, then there are 2 small threaded holes for the puller bolts & the big bolts acts on the column end, undo the nut but leave it at end of the column thread, then the wheel when it comes loose won't smack you in the face.

Cheers, will get a puller ordered. Ordered the cable too -£52! 😳

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On 8/17/2018 at 8:41 PM, western said:

Td5 is R380/LT230 should be stabdard high range 1.410:1

 

On the assumption that I have the standard 1.410:1 ratios, what’s the best way to up the gearing as I can pull away in 5th gear quite comfortably from 35mph? 90 mph is easily achieved on a private road but a tad noisy.....

Tyres will be 265s so no great increase in diameter from the 7.50s. Is it a case of fitting a higher greater TX box?

Edit: Found the answer...https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/lt230-ratio-changes/1-222-gear-set.html

Is it easy enough to remove the transfer box or can the gears be changed in situ?

2nd Edit: I’ll take it to Ashcrofts and let them do it 👌

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Busy old day today catching up with some jobs that needed doing after having run around in the TD5 for a couple of weeks since buying it.

First job was to get a set of 265/75s onto the rims I had on the RRC, in place of the standard steels and 7.50s. Will need to adjust the steering stops slightly as the new tyes a catching slightly on the aides arms on full lock.1420FAA9-F1EC-4027-9582-9F98912502D0.thumb.jpeg.744bf76d2cbf4b1e864ea4846eae22e6.jpeg

Checked the handbrake again and found the lower part of the bracket quite bent. Ordered a second hand one off the Bay so that should sort that one out.

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Next job was to fit the clutch assist spring kit which although a PITA to do was quite straightforward and has made a big difference.

Tried my new cheapo steering wheel puller to get the wheel off the column. I can confirm that they are not suitable for the standard wheel without the removable centre pad so save your pennies. A couple of sharp smacks to the top of the column with the hammer whilst I applied pressure from below with my knees and off it popped. I now know I definitely have the 48 spline column for when I swap to a smaller wheel.

Another task was to check the wiper motor and gearbox whilst I had the dash stripped to fit the loom for the new heated screen. It had a loud clunk on each swipe so I suspected some sheared teeth on the gear. Turns out it was an e-clip that was missing from the gear wheel where the drive arm connects to it so a quick trip to the local motor factors and all was sorted along with a clean and regrease.

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Next job was to fit the new heater control cable having found the original one to be kinked and not allowing the air to flow through to the cabin.

Simple enough to do whilst the dash was in bits. You can see where the old cable inner was kinked thus preventing the air flap to open properly.

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New cable fitted but even so the angle on the 2nd speed is still not great. Poor design Landrover, must do better.

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Whilst fitting the screen loom I noticed that some of the blanks in the dash had existing wiring to them although they are unused. Could do with a wiring diagram to check what they are intended for.

On the subject of wiring, as a final job for the day, I tried to update the headlight bulbs as they are both quite dim even though the lenses are new Wipac clear units with new halogen bulbs. Swapped the passenger one first and then switched the headlights on expecting to be able to take a photo showing the improvement between the two lamps. Unfortunately there was no change and the new lamp was just as dim as the one it replaced. A quick check behind the headlight revealed years of accumulated Irish peat that had solidified itself behind the front panel and in the process entombed the various additional loom plugs that I presume Landrover included for things like front fog lights or driving lights which on my model are unused.

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To say the plugs and wiring were buried in the stuff is an understatement and so I’m wondering if the problem with the dim headlights is related to this or a poor earth that is common to both lights? I’ve cleaned all the crud out now and doused the plugs with WD40 overnight but in the meantime I thought I would ask if anyone can tell me or point me towards a diagram that will show me where the earth points are located for the front lights. Side lights and indicators have been replaced with LED units and seem to be working ok. To be honest, with one side being clean and dry I would have expected that light to be working correctly with maybe the other one affected by the wiring issue.

Could the fitting of LED sidelights affect the function of the halogen headlights?

Still have the new rear prop shaft to fit and the steering locks to adjust but need to get these lights sorted first so any help is appreciated.

 

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If you fit the cable clip in the correct position you will find that it lines up fine - compare your before and after photos.

Dim headlights is usually due to the carp wiring, a relay modification is a good way to resolve this issue. I used a Landreizger loom but you can make your own fairly simply too.

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9 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

If you fit the cable clip in the correct position you will find that it lines up fine - compare your before and after photos.

Dim headlights is usually due to the carp wiring, a relay modification is a good way to resolve this issue. I used a Landreizger loom but you can make your own fairly simply too.

I’ve just been on google and can see there’s quite a bit of info relating to a dimming function on the headlight circuit. Something to do with a resistor under the wing and a pink relay behind the dash. Will try to find more info but if the relay was faulty and not switching to full power then I suppose this could explain the dim lights I have as both are equal.

You’re correct about the cable position. I fitted it correctly and it now works fine but even so the angle at which the inner cable enters the outer sheath when on fast speed setting is just poor design. The positions of the clips are set and cannot be adjusted but ideally the retaining clip should be slightly angled towards the mechanism to give a straighter line into the sheath.

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handbrake it self should be straight sides, 

the heater cable is to far up in the 2nd photo, 

headlights are problably a poor earth connection on loom behind headlight to innerwing

 

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heater cable should be a one strand type not multistrand  because it can kink as per both photo's.

 

regarding the alloy wheels, check the mox load rating those are fine on a 90 but 110 max weight is more, those wheels were never factory fitted to any 110.

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