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Just now, western said:

heater cable should be a one strand type not multistrand  because it can kink as per both photo's.

Should be but that’s the correct cable and cost me £52 would you believe! It’s got a crimped eye on each end so cannot be adjusted the way the hot/cold cable can and is a fixed length so the sheathed sits in the same position at each end. That second photo shows the heater fan switch in the ‘Fast’ position (down) which is governed by the electrical connections on the slide mechanism, the cable just opens up the flap to allow air through. So although it looks wrong it’s actually correct but as mentioned before, a poor design with respect to the cable entry angles.

I’m thinking as both headlights are affected, this relay or resistor which is common to both sides may need further investigation tomorrow but I’ll try and check whatever earths I can find.

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I’m also going to use a standard push button front fog light switch that sits in the top of the dash panel to switch on a rear LED work lamp that the P.O. fitted using a toggle switch. Is there a way to find out what pins light the telltale lamp in the switch and which one goes to the switch illumination? I’ve found the on off contact pins.

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53 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:

I’m also going to use a standard push button front fog light switch that sits in the top of the dash panel to switch on a rear LED work lamp that the P.O. fitted using a toggle switch. Is there a way to find out what pins light the telltale lamp in the switch and which one goes to the switch illumination? I’ve found the on off contact pins.

there's a post about extra light switches fot the Td5 centre console, IIRC it's in this forum & linked from the Tech Archive index, electrical section. 

 

find the Pink dim dip relay, pull it out & join the 2 blue/red trace wires with a jump lead, that will givenormal front headlights & no dim dip which is no longer a lighting requirement.

 

 

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1 minute ago, western said:

there's a post about extra light switches fot the Td5 centre console, IIRC it's in this forum & linked from the Tech Archive index, electrical section. 

 

find the Pink dim dip relay, pull it out & join the 2 blue/red trace wires with a jump lead, that will givenormal front headlights & no dim dip which is no longer a lighting requirement.

 

 

Yep, found that thread in the tech archive thanks, exactly what I needed.

Will check out the relay tomorrow and see if I can get these lights working again.

WRT the wheel rims, I only use the 110 for work commute and tootling about so it will never be loaded to capacity or do any towing. If they are okay for the Rangy then they’ll be fine for the 110 as the use will be the same. Interesting point to bear in mind though.

Guy in the tyre place put 36 psi all round in the tyres yesterday. Seems a bit high for me and the steering now feels less positive than before, might try airing them down a bit to around 28/30 and see how it feels.

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Erm, I believe the wheels need to be up to dealing with the maximum gvw, whether or is loaded to that or not, is not the point, it makes it illegal.... (as I understand it).

 

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6 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Erm, I believe the wheels need to be up to dealing with the maximum gvw, whether or is loaded to that or not, is not the point, it makes it illegal.... (as I understand it).

 

You do realise that I’m going to have to go outside to the garage to look at the rims now don’t you? 🤔

Otherwise there will be no sleep tonight..😳

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Didn’t take long..

There are only two markings on the rims:

C46B04F2-E43A-4F35-947F-78A520FDDD9E.thumb.jpeg.6379f4479f05813cca013b8cc90c8e6d.jpeg

4E84AD4F-2933-4640-8B15-C0674A2555B0.thumb.jpeg.a5bbc36c0531001a583bb42fc37dde83.jpeg

Unless those letters refer to a weight limit then I’m not sure how anyone can determine if they are suitable for the vehicle or not?

Just noticed Paddocks selling these wheels, or copies of them, to suit both Rangys, Discos and Defenders so should be ok.

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They are OK for Defender 90 but NOT Defender 110, it's the maximum loaded weight that matters regardless of wheter it ever gets to max weight or what you use the vehicle for, as Bowie mentioned above.

 

the 7J x16x33 refer to wheel width, diameter & offset, not the max loaded weight, A LR Main dealer would be able to source the correct weight info for thos ims

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Thanks chaps, the only thing I would say is that there are numerous well known Landrover dealers all selling these rims for the 90,110 & 130 model Defenders post 1994 so one would assume that they have all done their homework before advertising them. If the MOT or VOSA guys pull me up on it then I’ll argue my case but either way and, technical legalities aside, they are safe to use otherwise they wouldn’t be on my vehicle.

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The load carrying weight of the wheel should be stamped / cast  on the inside face of the rim - i.e. visible if you lie down and crawl under rather than take the tyre off.

I had similar looking rims on my 110 station wagon when I bought it, and they are rated to 650kg each, which was well below the maximum permitted axle weights.

I am not near my 110 just now, but remember the max permitted axle weight being 1850kg.

The wheels I have now ( Boost alloy I believe ) are rated to 950kg per wheel.

The axle weights are stamped on the plate with the VIN number, but that was on a 300tdi. Don't know if yours will be the same.

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39 minutes ago, Roverdrive said:

The load carrying weight of the wheel should be stamped / cast  on the inside face of the rim - i.e. visible if you lie down and crawl under rather than take the tyre off.

I had similar looking rims on my 110 station wagon when I bought it, and they are rated to 650kg each, which was well below the maximum permitted axle weights.

I am not near my 110 just now, but remember the max permitted axle weight being 1850kg.

The wheels I have now ( Boost alloy I believe ) are rated to 950kg per wheel.

The axle weights are stamped on the plate with the VIN number, but that was on a 300tdi. Don't know if yours will be the same.

I’ll be out trying to sort out the lights later so will check the spare, cheers.

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I’ve done some tests on the lights to try and find the source of the poor light output.

Resistor under drivers wing was already disconnected. Tried reconnecting it but it made no difference.

Unplugged it again and this time removed the pink relay from behind the dash before bridging the two terminals. No change either.

Getting 13.6v at the lamp connector and a good earth so I’m a bit stumped at the moment. I still think the issue lies with something that is common to both lamps, perhaps another relay or these LED side lights and indicators but if I can’t find anything then I might have to start bypassing the switch etc to try and isolate further.

Max permitted weight of the Tornedo alloy is 850kg.

Axle 1 weight on my vehicle is 1200 kg

Axle 2 is 1850kg

MLW 3050kg

Well within on the front axle and MLW but shy of 150kg on the rear. I’m not concerned to the point that I’m going to replace the rims with another set as there doesn’t appear to be any legal requirement for the max wheel loads and the max axle loads to match. I’ve checked Con and Use Regs. What it does mean though is that I cannot exceed a load of 1700kg for the rear axle irrespective of its own rating otherwise I would commit an offence.

More importantly for me from a safety perspective is that the tyres have the correct load/speed index.

Thanks for the input as it’s always good to do a sanity check and the info may prove useful to others.

Now, can we fix my lights please?

BTW, I’m struggling to see how this car passed an MOT very recently with the light output as it is......🤔

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At least you now know more about the wheels & weight you can go to, we all want to have safe vehicles & not drop ourselves into problems, 

as the dim dip is disconnected & hasn't made ant difference, check the loom connections for corrosion & try swapping the headlight over, if the fault moves to other side then the bulb is faulty.

there is a headlight relay in the fusebox area IIRC, also each side is seperately fused, 

2002 on Td5 wiring diagrams in full colour --- http://www.legionlandrover.com/manuales/electrical schemes - defender 2002 uk.pdf

 

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17 minutes ago, western said:

At least you now know more about the wheels & weight you can go to, we all want to have safe vehicles & not drop ourselves into problems, 

as the dim dip is disconnected & hasn't made ant difference, check the loom connections for corrosion & try swapping the headlight over, if the fault moves to other side then the bulb is faulty.

there is a headlight relay in the fusebox area IIRC, also each side is seperately fused, 

2002 on Td5 wiring diagrams in full colour --- http://www.legionlandrover.com/manuales/electrical schemes - defender 2002 uk.pdf

 

Sorted. Or at least improved. Went for the headlight relay and fuses. Fuse box is looking a bit ropey so could do with a good clean. Swapped the relay and the lights are much better but I sense that some cleaning of the fuse box and wiring connectors will improve things further. Found out by coincidence that if the fuse to the dash panel warning lights - ignition, plug heater lamp etc fails then it also takes out the feed to the headlight switch for some reason.

Found this orange box on top of the ECU, anyone got an idea what it is? Doesn’t look at all standard so may be an immobiliser of some description although if it is it doesn’t seem to work. Will check the wiring colours later to see what circuit it’s plumbed into.

1BBCD1BC-D6A9-4D40-9B59-BF4F541FF94B.thumb.jpeg.81dfdcbe3cb6a589acd6c43c95b7d464.jpeg

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No idea what that orange box is for, looks a bit aftermarket just going by the wiring connectors, those choc block aren't good in vehicles, made for household wiring IIRC.

good to read you solved the lighing fault.

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1 hour ago, western said:

No idea what that orange box is for, looks a bit aftermarket just going by the wiring connectors, those choc block aren't good in vehicles, made for household wiring IIRC.

good to read you solved the lighing fault.

Been a productive weekend so going to call it a day and watch the race.

Fitted the console switch for the rear spotlight using a genuine auxiliary lamp switch to keep everything looking standard. It’s the one with the number 2 next to the symbol. The switch background illuminates when the side lights go on but the orange tell tale won’t illuminate when the work light is on. Wired up as per the thread in the tech section and would expect the tell tale to work when the switched side of the contact goes live so maybe the switch is faulty.

I’ll check out that orange box another day but I too despise connector strip and the like in car wiring.

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What pins does the orange box connect into?

I can look at the pin-outs and it may give an idea if it’s meant to be an immobiliser or boost box (fooling the ECU about max boost) etc.

 

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Have been looking at fitting a smaller wheel now I’ve managed to get mine off. Was hoping to fit one of the Puma 3 spoke 14” ones as I thought they are a straight swap but now I’m not sure.

Chap on EBay who has one for sale reckons he has modified the indicator lug but extending it by 10mm to make it work with the TD5 column. My column seems to have two locating slots so presumably I need a wheel that will match those and by all accounts the Puma only has one if I’m reading the info correctly?

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Has anyone fitted a Puma wheel and can say whether they are a straight swap or not? It’s not the padded one I’m looking at it one like this:

1297FB8D-DB77-4B77-9DB2-DD8D7EC608AB.thumb.png.186e331d568ab7b4b78bc1b6474e069a.png

01160874-A56F-4238-A46D-77F82A4105E3.thumb.jpeg.dac189e7488e7ed7c312a926ec5cb93a.jpeg

Not sure if this style is a genuine option or just an aftermarket wheel that’s been adapted??

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Ah, that makes sense then. For the price they are asking I may as well but one with an adaptor boss. I think the standard rims are too large so 14” seems about right and I now know for certain that mine is the 48 spline column.

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23 hours ago, Bigj66 said:

Sorted. Or at least improved. Went for the headlight relay and fuses. Fuse box is looking a bit ropey so could do with a good clean. Swapped the relay and the lights are much better but I sense that some cleaning of the fuse box and wiring connectors will improve things further. Found out by coincidence that if the fuse to the dash panel warning lights - ignition, plug heater lamp etc fails then it also takes out the feed to the headlight switch for some reason.

Found this orange box on top of the ECU, anyone got an idea what it is? Doesn’t look at all standard so may be an immobiliser of some description although if it is it doesn’t seem to work. Will check the wiring colours later to see what circuit it’s plumbed into.

1BBCD1BC-D6A9-4D40-9B59-BF4F541FF94B.thumb.jpeg.81dfdcbe3cb6a589acd6c43c95b7d464.jpeg

looks like a boost box

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Just checked again and whatever it is has been installed in line with a white/yellow wire into the ECU. carp workmanship, not just with the use of connector strip but the wiring is stretched like a banjo string and I’m sure it won’t be long before it breaks at the connection point through natural vibration. Whatever it is I’ll probably end up having to redo the connections at the very least.

E1E62763-5CE8-4A64-8C50-C49D7BFD6972.thumb.jpeg.f9e7590d4709597ea6bba88d34c0d2a6.jpeg

Looking at a pin out on google it might relate to fuel or air temp???

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