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On 8/26/2018 at 2:57 PM, Bigj66 said:

Fitted the console switch for the rear spotlight using a genuine auxiliary lamp switch to keep everything looking standard. It’s the one with the number 2 next to the symbol. The switch background illuminates when the side lights go on but the orange tell tale won’t illuminate when the work light is on. Wired up as per the thread in the tech section and would expect the tell tale to work when the switched side of the contact goes live so maybe the switch is faulty.

 

As this switch switches the relay's coil to earth, there's no internal positive connection to the tell-tale LED.

To illuminate the tell-tale LED, you need to run a wire from terminal 87 on the relay, to pin 5 on the switch.

 

 

 

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11 minutes ago, PaulMc said:

 

As this switch switches the relay's coil to earth, there's no internal positive connection to the tell-tale LED.

To illuminate the tell-tale LED, you need to run a wire from terminal 87 on the relay, to pin 5 on the switch.

 

 

 

Cheers. I’ve used the switch to replace a toggle switch that the P.O. had used when he fitted the rear LED work light thus tidying up the dash and making everything look a bit more standard.

The feed to the lamp goes direct from the switch on pin 4 and not via a relay. Pin 1 is the live feed in, pin 2 is for the switch illumination and pin 5 is the earth. Pin 3 is unused. I followed the directions in a thread in the tech archive and apart from the tell tale everything works as it should. It’s just with being a rear white light, I’d like to know if it got knocked and came on inadvertently especially whilst I was driving so the tell tale would be useful and save me having to fit a separate indicator lamp in line with the feed to the work lamp.

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The switch you have (YUG000540LNF) is designed to switch the earth side of a relay's coil (terminal 85) to earth.

It should be wired from relay terminal 85 to switch pin 1

The switch switches pin 1 to pin 4 in the 'on' position.

Pin 4 should be wired to earth.

As in this diagram -

YUG000540LNFCircuit.jpg

The switch terminals should be wired as follows -

  • Pin 1 - From the earth side of the Relay (Pin 85)
  • Pin 2 - To Dash Illumination Header (or an adjacent switch)
  • Pin 3 - Not Used (but connected internally to Pin 4)
  • Pin 4 - To Dash Earth Header (or an adjacent switch)
  • Pin 5 - Live from Accessory side of Relay (Pin 87), for 'tell-tale' orange LED

Although you have the switch wired incorrectly, the reason that your background illumination is working, is that it's finding an earth path through the bulb of your work lamp.

You'll not get the tell-tale LED working with it wired this way.

 

If you don't need a relay with your work lamp, there are a few ways that you can wire it to this switch -

 

1. Run the live directly to the lamp, with its earth run back to the switch - however, this way has it's own problems -

As there's no output side of a relay, running a wire from the live side of the lamp to switch pin 5, would light the tell-tale LED permanently ☹️

Some lamps may be earthed through their mountings.

 

2. Change the switch body of YUG000540LNF for the body from a live-switching switch.

The cheapest option for this, is the Defender TDCi heated seat switch YUF500150LNF, which costs just under £10

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YUF500150LNF

 

YUF500150LNF.jpg

Apart from swapping-over the switch fronts, the only other modification is to remove the switch's body keyway -

YUF500150_LNF_2.jpg

 

YUF500150LNF also uses the Black 5-way connector, and should be wired as follows -

  • Pin 1 - Live in (from fused supply)
  • Pin 2 - Dash illumination
  • Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)
  • Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory (or relay)
  • Pin 5 - Earth

Defender_Puma_Heated_Seat_Switch_-_Acces

 

3.  Modify YUG000540LNF internally, to turn it into a live-switching switch - this is easy and costs nothing 😀

Open up the switch, and cut the Brass track, as shown in Red, here -

YUG000540_LNF_-_Aux_Lamps_-_Circuitry_-_

This separates pins 3 and 4, meaning that the pinouts would then be -

  • Pin 1 - Live in (from fused supply)
  • Pin 2 - Dash illumination
  • Pin 3 - Earth
  • Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory (or relay)
  • Pin 5 - Live for tell-tale LED

You could connect pins 4 and 5 internally so that the tell-tale LED lit in the 'on' position - but, it's just as easy to crimp a loop of cable from the terminal in pin 4, round to pin 5

.

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Brilliant thanks very much for the detailed reply and information. I think in its own right, that’s worthy of a place in the tech archive.

One further question, how does the switch facia come off to swap?

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Ref the ECU wiring.... White/Yellow looks to be the MAP sensor, so probably just a resistor in there to lower the voltage on the MAP line... Stop Over-boosting most likely.

Someone may have had that re-mapped and even played with the turbo actuator, causing an over-boost situation. 

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2 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

Ref the ECU wiring.... White/Yellow looks to be the MAP sensor, so probably just a resistor in there to lower the voltage on the MAP line... Stop Over-boosting most likely.

Someone may have had that re-mapped and even played with the turbo actuator, causing an over-boost situation. 

The P.O. had it remapped by a local company Torquetronix but he couldn’t provide any specifications except for an invoice from the company which describes the remap as a stage 2 with uprated intercooler and 20psi. They don’t have a 4x4 rolling road apparently so we’re unable to provide a dyno readout although the PO did quote figures of around 160bhp and it certainly goes well enough.

The intercooler is the Alisport one that sits in front of the rad so a fair bit larger than the original. Looking at the company website their description of the stage 2 upgrade doesn’t include the fitting of a box like the one I can see so I think I will give them a call to see if they can shed any light on it. It might be something that the P.O. has done himself after the remap and without their knowledge. Looking at those connector blocks I’d be surprised if any reputable tuning company would put their name to that workmanship.

I’ll update when I find out more.

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Certainly sounds like it's been mapped in the "old ways" but if it's working then leave well alone. I'd certainly want to be sorting those wires regardless.

Personally, I'd try taking the boost box out of the circuit (Leave it physically where it is for now) and see if you get any issues with over-boosting. Engine will cut momentarily when if it senses too much boost.

If your driving style doesn't induce the cut in power, I'd take it out of the system altogether. (Obviously I'd try to induce the boost cut with some aggressive, high revving driving too to know when / if it occurs) 

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58 minutes ago, V8 Freak said:

Certainly sounds like it's been mapped in the "old ways" but if it's working then leave well alone. I'd certainly want to be sorting those wires regardless.

Personally, I'd try taking the boost box out of the circuit (Leave it physically where it is for now) and see if you get any issues with over-boosting. Engine will cut momentarily when if it senses too much boost.

If your driving style doesn't induce the cut in power, I'd take it out of the system altogether. (Obviously I'd try to induce the boost cut with some aggressive, high revving driving too to know when / if it occurs) 

I’m glad you mentioned that as I’ve already experienced that ‘Rev limiter’ style occurrence whilst driving the car but wasn’t sure exactly what it was, perhaps fuel starvation. Is 20psi a normal boost range for everyday and long term use? To be honest it didn’t take that much pushing to induce the cut out of that’s what it is so I’m not sure if the boost has been set too high? I put it down to low gearing due to inexperience with being the new owner and started looking at getting the transfer box re- geared by Ashcrofts.

 I need this engine to last and really don’t need a race car anymore so need to get this sorted.

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20 psi is about right for a stage 2 tune, although the boost box is probably faulty as they are basically a voltage clamp & if you run them at the full voltage for long enough the gubbins internally fail, I know this as I have a drawer full of broken ones,

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If my understanding is right, 20 psi is around 1.4 BAR which is the very top end of the limit set in the ECU. (1.42 I think)

The MAP sensor is a 2 BAR sensor, referencing it's top end limit. Programmers now can remove the limit or lift it to 1.5 in the ECU to give a little more headroom.

I'm running a VGT, bigger PWR intercooler and upgraded MAP, but all programmed to use a 4 BAR sensor, so no chance of reaching the top end of the sensor range.

 

You could check that your actuator has 12-ish turns of thread showing and then remove the boost box and see how it goes with normal driving.

If you want to spend money, you could get it remapped again and avoid the MAP limits.

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To be honest I’m more concerned with engine longevity than performance. I’ve sent the company who mapped it an email asking for details of what they did so fingers crossed.

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Definitely a boost box, got the same on mine along with a stage 2 Alive tuning re-map, it fools the ECU into seeing a lower boost than it really is.

Regarding the handbrake lever, if you have a centre seat then you're pretty much stuck with it, however, if you've a centre cubby box, I would highly recommend getting yourself a Disco2 handbrake lever and mounting it on the top of the seatbox between drivers seat and cubby box, much more user friendly.

1189145000_fZVv6usZQTmZBfKaXG08A.thumb.jpg.e866e3179ae5629d41fda241a6846988.jpgW5C1GeGsRn2DT9hCnjRLKA.thumb.jpg.965b98d54bd7da1de15d903aed85b245.jpg

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I’ve ordered another standard handbrake as a stop gap but that Disco one looks the dogs parts.

How is it fixed underneath to stop it pulling through, is it on the strip where the centre seat runners used to mount?

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2 hours ago, crwoody said:

Definitely a boost box, got the same on mine along with a stage 2 Alive tuning re-map, it fools the ECU into seeing a lower boost than it really is.

Regarding the handbrake lever, if you have a centre seat then you're pretty much stuck with it, however, if you've a centre cubby box, I would highly recommend getting yourself a Disco2 handbrake lever and mounting it on the top of the seatbox between drivers seat and cubby box, much more user friendly.

1189145000_fZVv6usZQTmZBfKaXG08A.thumb.jpg.e866e3179ae5629d41fda241a6846988.jpgW5C1GeGsRn2DT9hCnjRLKA.thumb.jpg.965b98d54bd7da1de15d903aed85b245.jpg

Is that a Puma dash in a TD5?

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55 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:

I’ve ordered another standard handbrake as a stop gap but that Disco one looks the dogs parts.

How is it fixed underneath to stop it pulling through, is it on the strip where the centre seat runners used to mount?

I made up a 6mm steel plate drilled and tapped m8 to suit the brake lever plate along with a rubber gasket and used that to clamp through the seatbox top, lever on top, plate underneath.IMG_3111.thumb.JPG.792b26d000c21661c8585dbd5ba7405a.JPG

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I used the ReedX.net post when I did mine , but found this for you should give you a bit of an idea what to do . It really is a good and simple mod and with me being tall makes it a lot easier to operate. 

He’s done it on a puma , but there is more room on the older defenders.

Edited by ianmayco68
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8 hours ago, ianmayco68 said:

I used the ReedX.net post when I did mine , but found this for you should give you a bit of an idea what to do . It really is a good and simple mod and with me being tall makes it a lot easier to operate. 

He’s done it on a puma , but there is more room on the older defenders.

That looks like a great mod so I might hold off on the replacement and look for a Disco lever instead. Thanks for the heads up 👍

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