Jump to content
2a-Egg

New user new 2a owner

Recommended Posts

I would go for oem with anything to do with the brakes,. Although the biggest majority of Bearmach stuff is usually ok, they do sometimes have printed on the box's  C of O,..Country of Origin....China, Indonesia, ETC ETC. Not always, but ,  i recently bought a spare heater switch,.. number   1H9077L   BR 2058  C of O -----CHINA

i know this is only a switch ,but,... the brakes are a different matter

Hope this helps

Dave.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, skirky dave said:

I would go for oem with anything to do with the brakes,. Although the biggest majority of Bearmach stuff is usually ok, they do sometimes have printed on the box's  C of O,..Country of Origin....China, Indonesia, ETC ETC. Not always, but ,  i recently bought a spare heater switch,.. number   1H9077L   BR 2058  C of O -----CHINA

i know this is only a switch ,but,... the brakes are a different matter

Hope this helps

Dave.

Went for the oem in the end. 

. Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Atlast the brakes work! Checked every corner too and three of the brake setups have been replaced. The rear drivers side has not been and is leaking at the slave.. But she does slow down now.. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/4/2018 at 8:33 PM, 2a-Egg said:

Lookong at brakes a bit more after coming back from holdiay, and there was what looked like condensation on the master cyl, but is the hydrolic fluid, so will be replacing this. But do it spend an extra £20+ on oem or have the bearmach one thats alot cheaper(both supplied by bearmach).

I know you already made the right choice, but when faced with such dilemmas in the future, just ask yourself in the lives of you and your passengers are worth the 20pounds.  It'll stop your quandry dead, unlike cheap brake parts, which could just leave you dead.  BM aren't bad, nothing like Britpart, bit on brakes and steering, I just don't think any sum is worth the risk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Snagger said:

I know you already made the right choice, but when faced with such dilemmas in the future, just ask yourself in the lives of you and your passengers are worth the 20pounds.  It'll stop your quandry dead, unlike cheap brake parts, which could just leave you dead.  BM aren't bad, nothing like Britpart, bit on brakes and steering, I just don't think any sum is worth the risk.

Exactly my thoughts when I came to do it. £20 isnt anything in the grand scheme of things, its a sheet of paper that if plain us worthless. 

My next question is how to lean out the weber carb. The truck is running really rich. Im thinking as I don't know which way to turn the screw, I will just fire it up, turn one way and see if it gets worse or splutters... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not too sure on this one mate but a mate of mine once bought a piece of kit by Gunsons , for setting the carb, he set it up and never looked back. I don.t think it was expensive either, I seem to remember it had some sort of gauge and some plastic/ rubber tubing. I think he sorted his carb out in a couple of hours, fine tuning it and all, and then  again maybe once or twice a year  just to keep it running sweet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most likely a vacuum gauge, a very useful tool.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just found one for you ..ebay number 310334073564,  £18.00 + postage, or maybe someone on here has an even better way to do it, but this is what my mate used.

Dave.

eBay item 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not altogether sure but i do believe, that the instructions that come with the kit, tell you which screw does what and which way to screw them in or out to get the desired meter reading on the  carb balancer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/27/2018 at 3:21 PM, skirky dave said:

I'm not altogether sure but i do believe, that the instructions that come with the kit, tell you which screw does what and which way to screw them in or out to get the desired meter reading on the  carb balancer.

Hadnt seen this update, cheers for the info, have had a few weeks of work getting in the way of play. So the series has been tucked up. Need to show it some love soon. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy