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2a-Egg

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If it's running rich anyway, you'll find the evap problem easily makes it rich enough to refuse to start. The black schmoo is fairly typical, but doubtful it's causing the issue. When things in a carb get gummed up they tend to run lean, not rich. The float height we've been been talking about is fairly critical to proper function. In simple terms, there's a jet (very specifically sized hole) which connects the intake of the carb to the chamber with the fuel in. In front of this there's a venturi which creates an area of decreased pressure in the airflow right where the jet sits. Think of it as a circular wing. The jet is sized so that a specific amount of fuel is sucked up through the jet for any given pressure/rate of airflow. The jet is sat a distance above the nominal level of the fuel in the float chamber. If the level rises, its easier for fuel to be sucked through the jet as it has less far to be lifted. Too low a level has the opposite effect. The fuel level in the float bowl is set by the float, which works exactly the same as the ballcock in a toilet or water tank. Setting it correctly ensures the correct fuel level and correct fueling. A worn jet (yes, the fuel does eventually wear them out and enlarge the hole) can also cause problems. So can a leaky diaphragm in the accelerator pump, so can a leaking gasket, so can a broken float, so can a pitted float valve etc etc... 

With the carb on the bench and a rebuild kit ready you can cover all those bases and be pretty confident it'll work correctly when you reinstall it.

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@lo-fi thanks for all that information, will come in handy.

 

Next thing, what oil do people use in their air filters?? I never changed mine when I cleaned it as didn't have any. So 15/40? 

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Engine oil.  Don't use "heavy oils" like transmission oil as it's too thick and won't splash about the gauze while driving.  The idea of the filter is that the gauze is wet for dust to stick to it, but not submerged as you'll get oil ingestion or just a restriction to the air.  As the oil sloshes around in the casing from bumps, cornering and braking, it splashes up the the gauze and cleans off the accumulated dirt and also re-wets it.  Its essentially self-cleaning, and in that respect, far better than paper filters.  But the oil needs to be thin enough to splash and run easily.  If you don't have oil, then diesel or kerosene would probably do.

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Well my luck with the sump gasket change has run out. Oil coming out the rear on the sump, I might of made that out of my own doing, by possibly putting to much oil in as it was on low so topped it up but now its sat on or slightly above high. Will clean it all off and then check the bolts haven't worked loose 

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So the oil is coming out of the rear corner of the sump or looks that way, the runs down to the plug and drips. Is this just where it hasn't sealed properly or is there potential of the krankshaft being a bit drippy? 

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I've learnt more about the SIIa in this thread than my entire life owning Landies.

 

Love it :D

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13 minutes ago, Badger110 said:

I've learnt more about the SIIa in this thread than my entire life owning Landies.

 

Love it :D

Ha, happy that my tinkering and others replying has helped.. 

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Right. 

 

I have replaced the sump seal, and i still have oil leaking from the back of the sump, where it meets the gearbox.. Have i got a possible inner rear crank shaft leak??? 

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Very possible I'm afraid, it is gearbox or engine out time if you need/want to fix it.

If it is not that much, just live with it ;)

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18 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Very possible I'm afraid, it is gearbox or engine out time if you need/want to fix it.

If it is not that much, just live with it ;)

If its the T piece cork, is that engine out is it.?? Rubbish. 

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The T seal is between the rear main bearing cap and the block then outside that on the back of the block is the rear main seal , a two piece ring with the seal moulded to it , if you are doing one I'd do both , and yes it is engine out to make it easier to work on .

I'm  no fan of fixes in a bottle but there are seal swelling additives on the market which may slow it down for a while .

It would be the same engine out/box off for any other engine with a rear crank leak , of course while it's out it is the ideal opportunity to paint the block etc.

cheers

Steve b 

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You can see on the image of back of sump where oil is, which is leading mento the crack seal. The leak only occurred after i toppes up the oil and after a few miles journey, sat after the work was completed with oil in, no leak occured.

Also is it me or does the large bronze stop not look flush in the other image? 

DSC-2287.jpg
DSC-2286.jpg

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