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23 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

Hunting - all other things being equal - is usually because its lean, so yes, the float height could be having an impact. Could also be an air leak, so waft a bit of carb cleaner around anywhere there's a gasket or connection on the intake side to make sure you've not got anything leaking past. The revs will change if carb cleaner gets pulled in through a leak. 

If lean its acting like rich which I know it can do. Hoping no leaking. Guessing a potential leak could be anywhere on the carb to inlet or on the inlet to engine. 

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1 hour ago, lo-fi said:

Lovely!! I'm slightly jealous, despite having finished my hydraulic capstan build. 

How's the carb investigation going, or has rain stopped play? 

Rain has properly stopped play, it's something I'm going to look at Sunday pm after I'm back from a fishing trip in Devon. 

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Anyone know how to remove the winch drive shaft, I have a new spring arriving but the thing is solid, have taken two grub screws out but it won't budge, lubricant and rust inhibitor added too, still no movement 

Edited by 2a-Egg
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7 hours ago, lo-fi said:

You may have to resort to heat and a press if you're satisfied you've got the fasteners removed. Do you have a parts book with a diagram for it so you can double check?

Def got both the little fasteners out. Damn spring being completely fudged on it... 

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On 8/14/2019 at 4:41 PM, lo-fi said:

Lovely!! I'm slightly jealous, despite having finished my hydraulic capstan build. 

How's the carb investigation going, or has rain stopped play? 

Carb investigation just done, so with choke full open on start it's actually a little worse. Then when up to temp I put the idle mix fully in and it runs lovely, when I turn it out slightly it starts popping. 

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In these kind of temps you'll only need a smidge of choke when the engine is cold, if its set up correctly otherwise. Full out will definitely be too much. 

If you can get it set up to run nicely hot you can't be too far off, but often having to wind the idle mixture right in means there's a little leak somewhere. Does it drive nicely now?

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18 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

In these kind of temps you'll only need a smidge of choke when the engine is cold, if its set up correctly otherwise. Full out will definitely be too much. 

If you can get it set up to run nicely hot you can't be too far off, but often having to wind the idle mixture right in means there's a little leak somewhere. Does it drive nicely now?

Not got it on road at mo as doing seals on bits.. So have floors out.. I need to have a proper look at it rather than a few minutes here and there. 

 

Just can't see how or where air might be getting in. 

 

Edited by 2a-Egg
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5 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Yeah, timing, or worn dizzy - I have fixed that in the past with an electronic points conversion, was like night and day difference at idle.

Might just service that then as have a few bits and will do dizzy spin timing ha or borrow a strobe 

31 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

Ah, that's not too bad for an old 2.25. Sounds like the timing may be a little off is all. I'll video some running for you over the weekend at Leafers at T'pit 

Can strobe it at some point. Will get it hot and set carb properly too though 

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Loosen the pinch bolt at the base plate on the distributor until it just moves and rotate it clockwise a little to advance it . Mark it first so you know where you started . This can be done while ticking over and when it sounds smooth then check with a light if you want to. It's nearly there and while it "chugs" it is even .

It may need a bit more timing adjustment once it's driving but you are almost done I think.

cheers

Steve b 

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1 hour ago, 2a-Egg said:

Can strobe it at some point. Will get it hot and set carb properly too though

Get the timing set right before fine tuning the carb. You'll find you need to redo it after getting the timing sorted. 

Electronic points are worth every penny, as Bowie says. I'm running Powerspark from Simonbbc and I'd heartily recommend. 

Looks like you're very close to getting it nicely sorted :)

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1 hour ago, lo-fi said:

Get the timing set right before fine tuning the carb. You'll find you need to redo it after getting the timing sorted. 

Electronic points are worth every penny, as Bowie says. I'm running Powerspark from Simonbbc and I'd heartily recommend. 

Looks like you're very close to getting it nicely sorted :)

Is it bad that I want it to be as original as possible in the engine bay though... I know its got a webber carb but the rest is as it would of been.. 

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Yep, it stealth installs by default inside the dizzy in place of the mechanical points. It's a bolt on job too, so no need to drill, cut or otherwise modify.

Biggest advantages over mechanical points are:

Never needs adjusting 

Reliably makes the strongest spark it can manage 

Waterproof 

Won't furr up and corrode, needing replacement or fettling

Won't kill the coil if you leave the ignition on

Fair play and kudos for not wanting to chop it about, but even the most die hard of die hard rivet counters would have trouble grumbling about that particular mod :)

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3 hours ago, lo-fi said:

 

Fair play and kudos for not wanting to chop it about, but even the most die hard of die hard rivet counters would have trouble grumbling about that particular mod :)

You haven't met my 'friends' over on Morris minors OC forum that swear they have never had a set of points fail on them.

So far up themselves they've managed to tie themselves in quite some considerable knots.

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