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2a-Egg

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45 minutes ago, DC_ said:

Other forums I’d say would take the mick out of new members, this forum is top dog for helping folk. 

Any joy on the clutch problem? 

Got to agree, im all for a bit of fun so feel free haha... But yes everyone so far has been more than helpful. 

Clutch still same but ive not had proper look or the time to. The peddle is fine down and return are smooth. The clutch itself is slow on return which might be a number of things unfortunate, will bleed again for longer incase of air in system. 

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Had a few hours on the old girl this morning, got the knackered ignition barrel out atlast, and new one fitted, bled brakes and there is no pressure at all on the pedal, just straight down and back. Think the shoes are needing adjustment, previous chap said he put new shoes on, so guessing thats all he did... Was just put then on.. Water pump seems to be not working so will be taking radiator out and replacing the pump and flushing the system. 

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That is a nice and original 2A you have there , and the best colour too :) . It looks to have had a capstan winch on the front , does the crank still have the drive for the capstan ?

cheers

Steve b

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3 hours ago, steve b said:

That is a nice and original 2A you have there , and the best colour too :) . It looks to have had a capstan winch on the front , does the crank still have the drive for the capstan ?

cheers

Steve b

Im unsure about the drive, I will have to get a photo and check, ive just picked up a 1967 engine so right engine for its age. And at a bargain of a price..

 

Shame the winch was already missing when I got it. 

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A completely soft brake pedal can be many things, from brake shoes backed off too far and air in the system to a failed master cylinder.  You'll just have to be methodical, but if pumping the brake pedal stays soft, it's most likely the master cylinder.  Pumping should overcome bad bleeding and adjustment.

The clutch fault could be a seized fork shaft or release bearing sleeve, or could be weakening springs in the pressure plate.

I can't over emphasise the importance of good quality parts.  Do not be tempted to buy Britpart brake, steering or clutch hydraulic components as they are truly awful and you'll have to replace them again with better, doubling the work and increasing the cost over doing it properly first time.  Make sure all hydraulic units are Lucas, Girling, GKN or TRW.  Use genuine or Goodridge (stainless braided) hoses.

You have a great looking vehicle, so good luck fettling it.

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To add to Snaggers comments on Britpart, you'll find that many sites and eBay sellers have got wise to the fact that discerning owners avoid that brand and you'll find terms like "quality aftermarket" substituted. If its cheap and unbranded, avoid. 

Nice landy, hope you have a lot of fun with her :)

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1 hour ago, lo-fi said:

To add to Snaggers comments on Britpart, you'll find that many sites and eBay sellers have got wise to the fact that discerning owners avoid that brand and you'll find terms like "quality aftermarket" substituted. If its cheap and unbranded, avoid. 

Nice landy, hope you have a lot of fun with her :)

Good point.  And don't be fooled by the "G suffix" lie about that meaning the Britpart component is from the original manufacturer; it's a complete lottery, no different from the rest of their range, unless you have detailed knowledge of the few parts they supply that are good!

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3 hours ago, Snagger said:

A completely soft brake pedal can be many things, from brake shoes backed off too far and air in the system to a failed master cylinder.  You'll just have to be methodical, but if pumping the brake pedal stays soft, it's most likely the master cylinder.  Pumping should overcome bad bleeding and adjustment.

The clutch fault could be a seized fork shaft or release bearing sleeve, or could be weakening springs in the pressure plate.

I can't over emphasise the importance of good quality parts.  Do not be tempted to buy Britpart brake, steering or clutch hydraulic components as they are truly awful and you'll have to replace them again with better, doubling the work and increasing the cost over doing it properly first time.  Make sure all hydraulic units are Lucas, Girling, GKN or TRW.  Use genuine or Goodridge (stainless braided) hoses.

You have a great looking vehicle, so good luck fettling it.

 

3 hours ago, lo-fi said:

To add to Snaggers comments on Britpart, you'll find that many sites and eBay sellers have got wise to the fact that discerning owners avoid that brand and you'll find terms like "quality aftermarket" substituted. If its cheap and unbranded, avoid. 

Nice landy, hope you have a lot of fun with her :)

Thank you both for some great advice.. 

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For replacement parts where do people sugest, paddock spares seem to have brit parts which above you're advising against. 

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It's a little clunky, but totalparts.co.uk stock genuine, Allmakes and Bearmach. Not always the fastest, but I've always had a phone call (yes, from an actual person) if they're having trouble getting anything or there's a delay. My go-to supplier. 

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Dunsfold Land Rover were the best mail order supplier I found in 25 years.  Excellent knowledge on their part, unlike most suppliers who don't know about the brand issues or part variations between model years, good quality parts and sensible prices.  If you have to go for pattern parts at any time due to obscene prices, go for Bearmach.  Your local LR specialist should supply Gen Parts, Bearmach and Britpart.  If you don't specify brand when ordering, they'll typically go Britpart.

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11 hours ago, lo-fi said:

It's a little clunky, but totalparts.co.uk stock genuine, Allmakes and Bearmach. Not always the fastest, but I've always had a phone call (yes, from an actual person) if they're having trouble getting anything or there's a delay. My go-to supplier. 

Cant fault them, just put an order in, and within 5 minites a call to say one part out of stock and offered other options. So straight away points scored for customer service. 

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So I have the water pumpmoff and took the top of the thermostat housing off and it is bkt looking too pretty inside. Byt can I find this online to replace.... Can find the bottom and side of housing but the part pictured seems to be evading me. Anyone know the official name or part number? 

DSC_1830.jpg

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Not clued up too much on series but this looks like it? 

527109 part number

 

 

91E8B661-E63A-4E9D-BB4E-ABFBE38FF0C4.png

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Nice looking 2a,  ..... I do find a parts book is a great investment if you are serious about keeping the LR, it may be that there is one online now for the series I am not sure, its a while since I had one, but it does make parts identity much easier. 

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By the way, I didn’t put that arrow in the picture 😎

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That rust will come off with a scrape and dunking in some acid or electrolysis.  If it's not cracked, then you don't need to replace it, just clean it.  I've heard that concrete/brick cleaning acid from builders merchants works well and washes off easily with plain water afterwards.  There are plenty of posts on here and online about making a simple electrolysis bath, too.

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11 hours ago, DC_ said:

Not clued up too much on series but this looks like it? 

527109 part number

 

 

91E8B661-E63A-4E9D-BB4E-ABFBE38FF0C4.png

Yeah found the part number today, and one big issue, they don't make it anymore... Found one online at..... £99

Edited by 2a-Egg

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On 10/2/2018 at 2:55 PM, Snagger said:

That rust will come off with a scrape and dunking in some acid or electrolysis.  If it's not cracked, then you don't need to replace it, just clean it.  I've heard that concrete/brick cleaning acid from builders merchants works well and washes off easily with plain water afterwards.  There are plenty of posts on here and online about making a simple electrolysis bath, too.

So does coca cola it seems. Thought id try it as its always been known to clean up old coins.. Done an okay job... 

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Evaporust works wonders for something that's not truly evil and might kill you. Well worth buying a tub, it'll bring something like that up a treat after a good soak. 

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Electrolysis would get that to bare cast in less than a day with the right set up.

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