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2a-Egg

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I would go for oem with anything to do with the brakes,. Although the biggest majority of Bearmach stuff is usually ok, they do sometimes have printed on the box's  C of O,..Country of Origin....China, Indonesia, ETC ETC. Not always, but ,  i recently bought a spare heater switch,.. number   1H9077L   BR 2058  C of O -----CHINA

i know this is only a switch ,but,... the brakes are a different matter

Hope this helps

Dave.

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22 hours ago, skirky dave said:

I would go for oem with anything to do with the brakes,. Although the biggest majority of Bearmach stuff is usually ok, they do sometimes have printed on the box's  C of O,..Country of Origin....China, Indonesia, ETC ETC. Not always, but ,  i recently bought a spare heater switch,.. number   1H9077L   BR 2058  C of O -----CHINA

i know this is only a switch ,but,... the brakes are a different matter

Hope this helps

Dave.

Went for the oem in the end. 

. Cheers

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Atlast the brakes work! Checked every corner too and three of the brake setups have been replaced. The rear drivers side has not been and is leaking at the slave.. But she does slow down now.. 

 

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On 11/4/2018 at 8:33 PM, 2a-Egg said:

Lookong at brakes a bit more after coming back from holdiay, and there was what looked like condensation on the master cyl, but is the hydrolic fluid, so will be replacing this. But do it spend an extra £20+ on oem or have the bearmach one thats alot cheaper(both supplied by bearmach).

I know you already made the right choice, but when faced with such dilemmas in the future, just ask yourself in the lives of you and your passengers are worth the 20pounds.  It'll stop your quandry dead, unlike cheap brake parts, which could just leave you dead.  BM aren't bad, nothing like Britpart, bit on brakes and steering, I just don't think any sum is worth the risk.

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22 hours ago, Snagger said:

I know you already made the right choice, but when faced with such dilemmas in the future, just ask yourself in the lives of you and your passengers are worth the 20pounds.  It'll stop your quandry dead, unlike cheap brake parts, which could just leave you dead.  BM aren't bad, nothing like Britpart, bit on brakes and steering, I just don't think any sum is worth the risk.

Exactly my thoughts when I came to do it. £20 isnt anything in the grand scheme of things, its a sheet of paper that if plain us worthless. 

My next question is how to lean out the weber carb. The truck is running really rich. Im thinking as I don't know which way to turn the screw, I will just fire it up, turn one way and see if it gets worse or splutters... 

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Not too sure on this one mate but a mate of mine once bought a piece of kit by Gunsons , for setting the carb, he set it up and never looked back. I don.t think it was expensive either, I seem to remember it had some sort of gauge and some plastic/ rubber tubing. I think he sorted his carb out in a couple of hours, fine tuning it and all, and then  again maybe once or twice a year  just to keep it running sweet.

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Most likely a vacuum gauge, a very useful tool.

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Just found one for you ..ebay number 310334073564,  £18.00 + postage, or maybe someone on here has an even better way to do it, but this is what my mate used.

Dave.

eBay item 

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I'm not altogether sure but i do believe, that the instructions that come with the kit, tell you which screw does what and which way to screw them in or out to get the desired meter reading on the  carb balancer.

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On 11/27/2018 at 3:21 PM, skirky dave said:

I'm not altogether sure but i do believe, that the instructions that come with the kit, tell you which screw does what and which way to screw them in or out to get the desired meter reading on the  carb balancer.

Hadnt seen this update, cheers for the info, have had a few weeks of work getting in the way of play. So the series has been tucked up. Need to show it some love soon. 

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After a long time of the truck sitting in the lock up, ive finally had chance to start on it again, the clutch issue is one i cant figure out so it has gone to a mates garage for them to diagnose and fix, the cold weather last week has meant the manifold to down lipe gasket has given up, that may have been on its way out and account for the missfire. Hoping to get it back and then start working on all the silly little bits that need doing 

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Got the degreaser out and gave the engine bay a bit of a clean, I've replaced the heater fan in the cab as the old one was warped and catching, also I thought the roof was rattling around the tailgate so checked it, found the two rear bolts were loose and no middle bolts or front bolts around the base where it meets the body of the car. All bolts tightened or added so now not rattling there. Unfortunately the chap who helped do the brake master cylinder bent the metal mud guard and its actually ripped the inner wing which now has two holes where the bolts should be to hold it on, sothe mud guard is now off, and to be fair it neede replacing, two big holes in it. 

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On 9/8/2018 at 11:59 PM, Cornish Rattler said:

There will be a flexi pipe from a steel pipe on the bulkhead to the slave cylinder they tend to get left and either perish and can also collaps inside causing this problem 

This was the issue with the clutch, a perished/collapsed flexi hose. Cheapest fix I will ever have. 

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New door seals fitted and doors adjustes to allow the to shut, one bulk head screw on the top hinge was rusted solid, 25 minutes with the impact driver got it out, all new bolts on order for all hinges. New door tops ready for painting then to be fitted. And have new light lens kit on the way, as all plastics are clouded and tired. 

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Very Nice !

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On 9/23/2018 at 2:32 PM, steve b said:

That is a nice and original 2A you have there , and the best colour too :) . It looks to have had a capstan winch on the front , does the crank still have the drive for the capstan ?

cheers

Steve b

Found a mate with a capstan he no longer uses, so hoping to buy and fit to mine. Seeing as the holes are there.. 

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That would be nice , I have recently opened negotiations with someone locally with one too , hoping to fit it to my early 109 2A sw ~ currently waiting a full rebuild

cheers

Steve b

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Love a capstan, looks so good on a series.

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2 hours ago, steve b said:

That would be nice , I have recently opened negotiations with someone locally with one too , hoping to fit it to my early 109 2A sw ~ currently waiting a full rebuild

cheers

Steve b

Hoping your local isn't my local haha.. 

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Yesterday i took the air filter out and gave it a quick clean off

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12 minutes ago, Davethelandy said:

Mine looked like milk when I changed mine, I presumed it was water 

Luckily mine wasn't that bad. So just gave it a clean with petrol. 

The engine is running a little retarded so need to sort timing out at some point soon. And need to tighten the alternator belt

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So this weekend sW me help a friend strip the front end off his series3. Just the bulkhead and wiring loom left attached. 

On mine I was able to sort the timing out, set the carb a little better, and i gave the air filter another clean as it seems the first time round I just moved the dirt..

Got underneath to try and move the alternator so the belt is tightened but the bottom bolts are solid.. Unsure if they will budge, cleaned off all the oil under too so I can try and locate where territory marks come from, and found a hole on the rear exhaust pipe section, thinking of replacing front to back now as the hole pipe is looking a bit past it. 

The shopping list is growing. 

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