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2a-Egg

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New exhaust gasket bought, new studs all round too. 

DSC-2267.jpg

And inlet manifold cleaned up 

DSC-2268.jpg

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All back together now. Used well seal on the gaskets but thinking that was a bad idea as I think when it heats up its starting to smoke a bit, its not exhaust fumes as its not instant from start up. 

DSC-2269.jpg

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Copper slip on the studs will burn off the grease, only leaving the copper.

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25 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Copper slip on the studs will burn off the grease, only leaving the copper.

Quite, and dried up copper ease does nothing but gall up threads in my experience.

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Graphite grease is good for stuff that has a hard life in high temp. Best (I may have said before) is milk of magnesia, particularly on stainless. 

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Amazed by that. I'd have though too runny?

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17 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

Graphite grease is good for stuff that has a hard life in high temp. Best (I may have said before) is milk of magnesia, particularly on stainless. 

You've definitely said it in a thread recently as I have read it

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17 hours ago, Gazzar said:

Amazed by that. I'd have though too runny?

Yeah, you can't get big gobs of it on a thread like you can grease, but it coats well. Seems to be all you need. 

Graphite, like copper, flashes off and you're left with the graphite. It's the weapon of choice on hotter parts of steam engines with steel studs in cast iron or bronze and can literally last decades. 

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Right so the truck is back together as sounds brilliant, starts better than before but is still over fueling. Im unsure if my carb is doing anything when I play with the mixture screw, what else (apart from timing maybe) would cause it to over fuel? 

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float level in carb. too high or float not floating any more , or needle not sealing correctly . The choke opens ok ?

You're getting several worthwhile jobs ticked off :i-m_so_happy:

cheers

Steve b

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7 minutes ago, steve b said:

float level in carb. too high or float not floating any more , or needle not sealing correctly . The choke opens ok ?

You're getting several worthwhile jobs ticked off :i-m_so_happy:

cheers

Steve b

Yeah choke pulls fine. So possibly the float but I don't know what im looking at so wouldn't be able to say yes or no to that.. 

Trying to get stuff I can sensibly do myself done

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, jordan_meakin said:

How do you know it's over fueling?

The smell and smoke out the rear end... Oh, and thecsoark plugs are black dry and sooty  

Edited by 2a-Egg
Plugs

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Is the choke definitely releasing fully? The mixture screw on those carbs is just for idle, if I recall correctly. 

Float height is usually set with the carb on the bench, float bowl off, upside down. You bend the little tab that pushes the float (fuel inlet) valve shut until the actual floaty bits are a specific height above a datum point listed in the rebuild manual. 

Do you have an electric fuel pump? If so, are you running a regulator? Most pumps drive far more pressure than the poor little float valve can resist, so fuel gushes in even when it's closed. Same problem if the float valve is pitted or jammed and not fully closing. 

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6 hours ago, lo-fi said:

Is the choke definitely releasing fully? The mixture screw on those carbs is just for idle, if I recall correctly. 

Float height is usually set with the carb on the bench, float bowl off, upside down. You bend the little tab that pushes the float (fuel inlet) valve shut until the actual floaty bits are a specific height above a datum point listed in the rebuild manual. 

Do you have an electric fuel pump? If so, are you running a regulator? Most pumps drive far more pressure than the poor little float valve can resist, so fuel gushes in even when it's closed. Same problem if the float valve is pitted or jammed and not fully closing. 

Choke looks to be, thr the plate is vertical if I take the air intake hose off to look, can see the jet of fuel when I rev too. 

Not had carb off or checked float, carb was replaced by previous owner, unsure if they just put it on or did any kind of setup with it. 

Unsure if pump is electric, not looked into that and unsure what im looking at to be honest, will have to check manuals to know. 

 

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Electric would be an after market modification, the originals are mechanical and driven off the cam. 

Might be worth popping the carb off and removing the float bowl to see what's what. The floats are just thin brass or plastic tanks and can crack or spring a leak, meaning they don't cut the incoming fuel off when it reaches the correct level. That'll lead to over fueling regardless of what you do with jets or mixture adjustments. Same goes for the little valve - could even just have some crud stuck in it. 

 

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1 minute ago, lo-fi said:

Electric would be an after market modification, the originals are mechanical and driven off the cam. 

Might be worth popping the carb off and removing the float bowl to see what's what. The floats are just thin brass or plastic tanks and can crack or spring a leak, meaning they don't cut the incoming fuel off when it reaches the correct level. That'll lead to over fueling regardless of what you do with jets or mixture adjustments. Same goes for the little valve - could even just have some crud stuck in it. 

 

Right im going with mechanical then as i can see anything that woild suggest an add on. 

Never played about with a carb before. So this could be interesting.. I know the timing os a little off so might get that sorted, then look onto the carb.. 

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Ah. That's a good idea; running retarded can make it appear as though it's running quite rich. Depends how far out it is. 

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Yes, get timing sorted first.

It may be that the internal o-ring on the carb is leaking, the new replacements you can buy are NOT made well, and very often leak from factory :( 

 

To solve repeated issues with old and new carbs, I replaced it with an SU 😛 Bit more work than you probably want though :) 

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How easy is timing to sort? I might be able to get hold of a strobe. 

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Dead simple if you've got a timing light. 

attachment.php?s=25c1cb0eee4790b6bbb0eab

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Assuming you have timing marks!  My 2.25 didn't, but it was a 24V FFR...

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I think some of the early engines you had to set the static timing with a mark in the bellhousing... If you don't have the marks we'll have to figure it out :)

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Posted (edited)

This evenings fun.. Only problem i have is the bulbs don't sit right, twist in then push back out too far, i have to push the side light bukb back in a little for it to come on. 

May I have the wrong style bayonet? The at 12-6 and sit Right at the base of the metal. 

Pic of the modification I had to make due to non round holes
IMG-20190429-WA0006.jpg

Edited by 2a-Egg

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