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roll cage coating


gsr341
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while i was at the powder coaters picking sum bits up today , i thought i would get a price for powder coating my cage (original painting was dreadfull :angry: )

was qouted £75 to coat it inc blasting it first to provide a key (i thought it was a fair price )

i asked about chipping it and the guy recons it wouldnt chip but would mark slightly , he said i would have to wear away rather than chip ?

does any one here have there cages powder coated , ? how have they stood up to the abuse

, or failing that what paints would you recomend using ?

what do they use on digger buckets ?

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The Rock Rod I had previously had a Powder coated frame, and whilst it looked stunning (hint of mettalic) it DID chip off, also, if any welding work was done nearby it would look awful very quickly.

That said, I think it probably has the edge over painting, but not by much. Of course the problem arises when touching up etc, it cant be done, where painting can be.

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The old cage on the 90 was galvinised and then powder coated. It did chip in places but it was pretty tough. However, I found the powder coating on the sills and bumper no where near as good so I don't know what Safety Devices did to get such a good coating. In terms of patching up I tended to cover up any marks / scratches / chips with hammerite with waxoyl; it belds in very well with black powder coating.

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The quality of powder coating does seem to vary wildly, with a lot of the difference being in the preparatiion.

I've had a spare wheel carrier that pressure washing (gently) has ripped off strips of powder coating, but a Devon 4x4 bumper I bought is very good, and has only had the surface broken where the weight of the car has pushed it against sharp rocks.

My cage from Protection and Performance seems to be very durable too, with some scratches and wear marks but no bare metal showing or chipping.

I once had a front bumper that after a small dent all the coating just peeled and chipped off. :angry: Hence I bought the Devon one.

Richard

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Minivin is your man for powder coating, ISTR he has a mate who does it and there are numerous opportunities for it to be done badly - obviously some people are happy so long as it comes out the right colour and others actually make the stuff stick like it should.

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Powder coating on it's own, even if grit blasted first, tends to peel off eventually.

The slightest nick in the surface causes corrosion which eats underneath the plastic - which conveniently traps water and so on.

The best solution is hot zinc spray and powder coating. The Zinc spray provides a better key than galvanising and as good corrosion resistance. It's harder for the rust to start and it tends not to eat under the coaing.

My wing bars are done like this and despite a frequent hard rubbing it has not come off yet! ;)

Si

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Powder coating on it's own, even if grit blasted first, tends to peel off eventually.

The slightest nick in the surface causes corrosion which eats underneath the plastic - which conveniently traps water and so on.

The best solution is hot zinc spray and powder coating. The Zinc spray provides a better key than galvanising and as good corrosion resistance. It's harder for the rust to start and it tends not to eat under the coaing.

My wing bars are done like this and despite a frequent hard rubbing it has not come off yet! ;)

Si

Same Here Simon.....My 130 roll cage was first sand blasted, electro plated and finally a 40 micron session at the powder coaters gave great results.

Three years on and still no rust or nastiness.

I think this is the best way to go is powder coating is your final choice........personally I wouldn't have it done this way again...too expensive. Next time will be a 2 pack epoxy that they use to paint the legs on the Oil rigs with...I have the roofrack and rear ladder on my Disco done with the stuff......hard and nails and a superb finish.

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aiy, my contact in south Wiltshire is as follows:

Tim Hayes

Wessex Metal Finishers

Unit 7

Kingsway Industrial Estate

Wilton

Near Salisbury,

Wiltshire

01722 743835

I did have a video that I did of me beating a Gloss Black PCed rear mudguard stay for one of my Vincent HRD's, 5/8 16SWG tube against a 1/2" stainless steel rod, only dimpled the surface of the PC, if that had of been Hammerite it would have shattered and left bits of paint all over the shop, oh here we go:

4132kb!!!

5/8" Tube meets 1/2" Rod

If I had of had sound, you'd get a better perspective of how hard I beat it, but unfortunately the frame rate and resolution don't quite make it look as brutal as what I was to it :o

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personally Im a 2 pack fan, PC is more brittle than 2 pack, less UV stable and unless given a good key, etched and then baked properly its not ovely resistant to a kicking.. 2 pack is also easier to touch up if you need to. on the negative side its a git to spray cages :(

Ripleys in Basingstoke do my PC work - good lads (if thats any closer to you?) but thier oven wont be big enough for roll cage sections :(

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