Darren Roberts Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 Yep hose from back of plenum to fuel regulator there. Changed it to a new bit of pipe just in case there are any issues with it. New pipe is not squidgy like the one thats on there at the moment... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 There's also air temperature sensor in the AFM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 it's also worth eliminating air leaks finally - can potentially be anything that connects to plenum so I'm thinking crankcase breather. brake booster or even fuel regulator. could try blankng all ports off just to elimi ate and then test- wouldn't drive without the brake booster tho! Also check stepper seats properly - no washer but thread sealant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 RRC has hydro assist, not vacuum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 50 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: RRC has hydro assist, not vacuum I thought the ABS ones were hydro and earlier are vacuum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Yeah, this one is a 1992, I'm going to assume it has ABS by then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 yep, 1992 with ABS.....I will drive it to get it warm and then see if I can blank all the hoses. There is also a vacuum supply for the now non functioning cruise, so I might disconnect that as well..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 (edited) On 11/7/2018 at 2:24 PM, joe1 said: it's also worth eliminating air leaks finally - can potentially be anything that connects to plenum so I'm thinking crankcase breather. brake booster or even fuel regulator. could try blankng all ports off just to elimi ate and then test- wouldn't drive without the brake booster tho! Also check stepper seats properly - no washer but thread sealant It came with a fibre washer so it's fitted with that. Its done up quite tight so probably no air leak but the plunger probably also won't be seated properly..... Edited November 8, 2018 by Darren Roberts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 Ok update on this:- Still "hunting" when trying to set the base idle when warm. Revs fluctuate by 3-400 rpm in some cases, can't get it to idle smoothly until 700 rpm with the stepper motor isolated. I've checked for vacuum leaks - no joy with the brake cleaner trick. Vacuum gage plugged in at idle doesn't fluctutate. Check vacuum on cruise control feed, dizzy feed, rear of plenum to fuel regulator, crankcase breather on top of rocker cover. All with stepper valve isolated. Has ABS so no vacuum for brakes. Ignition strobed at 6 degrees BTDC with vacuum to dizzy isolated. So far its had:- New coil (Lucus) New rotor arm New dizzy cap (Lucas) New water temperature sender (Bearmach) New fuel temperature sender (Bearmach) New air flow meter from Ebay (not one of the usual makes - D & P)? New stepper valve with ptfe tape but no fibre washer. New hose between stepper motor and inlet manifold. New vacuum hose from top of plenum to dizzy. Plenum removed cleaned up and resealed. with gasket sealer when refitted. New leads less than 500 miles ago. New plugs less than 500 miles ago. I've gone back through this thread, couldn't find the pinned guide here but I did go through the British Atlantic guide on the web. I've now run out of ideas and now fed up with the digs from mates about it not running right. Everyone says stick carbs on it but the way I look at it it came out the factory working so using stock parts I should be able to get it back to working state without mods..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Carbs are for luddites, or series owners. Disconnect the engine breathers and all other hoses to the plenum, and plug the resulting holes. Try again. my feeling is it that is is the engine breather either not installed correctly, or using the wrong t-piece (it has a 4mm restrictor in it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 14 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Carbs are for luddites, or series owners. Disconnect the engine breathers and all other hoses to the plenum, and plug the resulting holes. Try again. my feeling is it that is is the engine breather either not installed correctly, or using the wrong t-piece (it has a 4mm restrictor in it) Ok will do. The T piece is the genuine one with the brass restrictor in it. I've got another new on so may try swapping those over......thanks again for the help. I'm also going to do a compression test as someone on another forum suggested that he cam could be knackered...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 Just to close this topic off, it went into the 4x4 Specialist, they found that the malfunctioning amp caused the coil to get fried. The amp was a new Lucas one.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Glad you finally got it sorted - must admit I'd lost track of where this thread was. I do remember saying that the std Lucas ignition bits were carp. Whether this is because the 'new' Lucas isnt the same quality as the 'old' Lucas I dont know. Permanent fix is to retrofit one of the aftermarket amps (aulro have a good description of whats required) - doesnt have to be a brightly coloured ££ box either. Anyway you probably wont want to do that just yet. Just think how much you've learned about v8s in the process of all this though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 On 3/4/2019 at 1:44 PM, joe1 said: Glad you finally got it sorted - must admit I'd lost track of where this thread was. I do remember saying that the std Lucas ignition bits were carp. Whether this is because the 'new' Lucas isnt the same quality as the 'old' Lucas I dont know. Permanent fix is to retrofit one of the aftermarket amps (aulro have a good description of whats required) - doesnt have to be a brightly coloured ££ box either. Anyway you probably wont want to do that just yet. Just think how much you've learned about v8s in the process of all this though! Thanks. Yes I did. The irony is that the original coil (I think Bosch) and dizzy amp were ok, the new one was given to me so it just got swapped out as part of the elimination thing, and actually caused a bigger problem in the first place. Saving up some money, considering mega jolt now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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