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steve200TDi

Quicker steering - All things steering related (mostly comp safari) info dump

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Yes, I had considered that, but as Ross rightly says the kick back wouldn't be nice......but after a steering damper and pump tweak etc it could be better, but I like to have two hands on the wheel!

Also I think I may have tightened up the steering box a little too much in my quest to remove all the slack before the last race as I've normally found it ok!

Steve

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I would be wary about using an electric steering column to drive a PAS steering box, 

the issue you will likely run into is that the steering box can only move so fast, be it mechanically & hydraulically, with the addition of a 2:1 steering quickiner im confident you will reach the limits of the box & what it can do, I found when I comp safari'ed that using a smaller steering wheel helped along with a mild pump tweak, 

 

although slightly different my current setup on my U4 car which I have comp safaried, is just over 2 turns lock to lock, & it will steer as fast as you can turn the wheel, it does have some feedback through the full hydraulic system plus it also self centres. the hydraulic oil runs at a constant 80-90c which although hot isn't outwith the propertys of the synthetic steering fluid im using, 

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I agree with Mike; I don't think an electric steering column is a good idea in conjunction with a PAS box.

The P38 box is much stronger than the Adwest type.  Its ratio and speed are going to depend on the length of the steering arm on the swivel it's operating, and I suspect that's shorter on a Defender than a P38.  I can't remember for sure, but I think I get a little over 3.5 turns lock to lock on my 109 with Defender front axle and P38 hydraulics and drop arm, but that's with the stops wound way, way in so the tyres just clear the leaf springs.  You lock will be more limited by the radius arms, so the amount of input in that lock would appear to be faster.  I also found that the V-belt pulley from earlier engines fits without alteration to the P38 pump, so getting higher hydraulic pressure is not an issue.

As for castor, I'm not surprised the steering is a bit squirrelly at speed.  Castor correction arms or even the correction bushes for standard arms should sort that out, though of those two the arms would seem a better solution.  Daan's method of redrilling the swivel flange bolts would sort the castor too, but you'd need to weld up the existing holes so that the swivels couldn't, well, swivel on their flanges.  You'd need to be accurate in redrilling, and they'd no longer be symmetrical if you mod the swivel housings themselves, and any future housing replacement would need the same work.  To make all that simpler, it'd be best to alter the bolt holes on the axle tube rather than housings.

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@steve200TDi, yesterday I had a chat with a Bearmach sales assistant on their site, mostly out of curiosity, this is what they came back with this morning:

 

Quote

 

Good Morning Peter,

Apologies for the delay, i can confirm that BA 228 is 26cm long and the ratio becomes 2.9 turns lock to lock 

The standard arm (BR 0128) is 24cm long 


 

 

That, I think, will give you a lot of what you want?

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30 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

@steve200TDi, yesterday I had a chat with a Bearmach sales assistant on their site, mostly out of curiosity, this is what they came back with this morning:

 

 

That, I think, will give you a lot of what you want?

Thanks Bowie for finding out, that is interesting. The downside is that I'll have to swap back to a defender drop arm, but that's not the end of the world!

Steve

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BTW, the Bearmach guy was REALLY helpful! Went and measured up botha dn reported the difference, and clearly got an engineer type in the check the turns lock to lock change....

Was very impressed.

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On 10/19/2018 at 11:52 AM, Bowie69 said:

@steve200TDi, yesterday I had a chat with a Bearmach sales assistant on their site, mostly out of curiosity, this is what they came back with this morning:

 

 

That, I think, will give you a lot of what you want?

Well we all know what difference another couple of cm's can do.. :ph34r: I would be worried about breaking the already quite weak shaft in the steering box though?

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1 hour ago, Soren Frimodt said:

Well we all know what difference another couple of cm's can do.. :ph34r: I would be worried about breaking the already quite weak shaft in the steering box though?

Decent steering damper should take some of peak force out of it I'd have thought? 

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28 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Decent steering damper should take some of peak force out of it I'd have thought? 

Yeah you're probably right about that, moving the TRE further in at the swivel would put more force on the steeringbox shaft anyways

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On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 4:44 PM, landroversforever said:

Decent steering damper should take some of peak force out of it I'd have thought? 

ive found in the past with hydro assist fitted on rubber bushings as per the gwyn lewis kit, the movement in the bushes is enough to break the steering box

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I may be swaying towards a longer defender drop arm and a pump tweak. As Bowies says it's a nice and simple solution!

Steve

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