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it was requested, so here it is, the race-lorry build!


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diff ratios vs rpm at the limiter.

 

ignore the gear ratios from 1-5 as those are guessed, and 6th ratio is a calculation from where i know the rpms sit at 56mph.

 

all i did then was input the final drive ratio, and lower the max engine rpm till 6th gear read 56mph. crude but effective.

 

first is 5.13:1 (current)

lUyz1yBl.png

 

second is 4.1: (this is the option i think id choose...)
c0Xxj47l.png

 

last is 3.73:1
oGMQWCHl.png

 

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  • 2 months later...

and so, were back to the wagon!

after barely passing the mot last year, i decided it was time to look at the rear brakes.

a set of pads ordered
Qb6bTL4.jpg

so just have to fit them and adjust the load sensing valve.


i have 18 ton axle stands and a 20 ton bottle jack, so this should have been easy, but i chose to do it yesterday afternoon.... in 32* heat! yeah, that was fun.

first off i undid the wheel nuts on one wheel (set) well, i tried to. 3/4" drive 7ft breaker bar and they didn't even flinch. added another 20ft of scaffold pole and the each came undone with a loud bang. over tightened much? i hate hgv fitters!

next i jacked it up, used my battery impact to spin the nuts off, which it did no worries, and took the outer wheel off. then the fun began.

the wheel was rusted to the hub.  i put the pole behind the wheel and against the axle and gave it a good old heave-ho. nothing. this went on for a while, i even tried shocking it off with a sledge hammer, no chance. what to do?

well, tie a ratchet strap to the end of the pole, the other end to the tow bar of my car and drive off. that worked  :mrgreen:   wheels off and the pole had a 10* bend in the end of it now!


stuck a axle stand under the hub, jack down and were half done...


none of the above do i have pics for, because i left my ipad at home, doh.

then onto the passenger side. oh dear oh dear, thought the drivers where overtightened!

same as before, breaker bar on, 20ft pole on, and this time i'm standing on the end jumping up and down and nothing, until. BANG. ok, that'll be a new breaker bar i need then :shock:

game over.

back to it tomorrow with a 1" drive bar. if that doesn't move them, i'll be investing in a torque multiplier...


2 wheels in the back of my car weigh a lot, and take the entire boot up with the seats down, so i bought them home to clean up and paint.

here they are next to a rx8 tyre...
b4rLlre.jpg

wire wheeled back
Yx6WDIH.jpg
a3HozAZ.jpg

rust converted.

yU5oeCF.jpg
ziSZ4Te.jpg


next i removed the valve core to let the air out and make the tyre shrink away from the bead and painted them with fairy liquid...

iKH4Vwu.jpg

primer
VGFtHm2.jpg
ojLZnny.jpg

top coat and 2k lacquer
sunlight silver anyone?? :D

81crRG1.jpg

airline used to blow the paint off 24hrs later and the finished product...

vowkkUB.jpg
w28n5nE.jpg


just got to do that again to the other pair and fit them back to the wagon....

oh and change the pads and adjust the load sensing valve..... which is what i started with in the first place!

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Sounds like you need to invest in one of these... :ph34r: Or they've brought out a bigger one.

I've got the older variant of the first one and yet to find anything it's failed to undo. Problem is fitting it in in the first place, although the newer ones are slightly more powerful but considerably more compact.

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7 minutes ago, qwakers said:

haha no chance. youd need a 1”dr air driven at least. my impact wont touch it and that puts out 2000lbft!

You sure it's working? :popcorn-and-drink-smiley-emotic

The impacts suffer greatly if you have a loose fit, amazing how a snug fitting socket with no extensions changes things.

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Looking very, very good !

Yes, there is a reason why those "by the side of the road assistance trucks" ave serious tools and air with them...

You were actually lucky - we have been using hydraulic splitters to remove wheels from axles....

Keep them coming, please..

 

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5 hours ago, qwakers said:

yup, works fine. these have been done up on full uggaduggas by a idiot tyre fitter. not coming off without serious mechanical advantage.

IMO they’re just that tight as the torque involved in lorry and tractor wheel nuts will multiply the break off torque required. Think about a LR nut that’s not been undone for a while. 

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look, free lowering kit

e349vj0.jpg

d3Gsjxg.jpg

 

the pole before

ITltcgJ.jpg

and after using it to lever the wheels off..

vCUtNwn.jpg

'you fkin will come off!

1Us9UZF.jpg

'im not asking!'

wlHwgEC.jpg

qrZYgmh.jpg

 

 

brakes now replaced 

ncifoxn.jpg
1pY8Uoi.jpg
5GUOPWA.jpg

 

old ones where very worn, and someone had sabotaged the pad wear indicators...

 

d9u1IRS.jpg
Gs9UOPh.jpg

 

the little impact will break A m12 bolt.... the big one will break your wrist if your not careful. neither would touch the wheel nuts...

azfBGhN.jpg

 

all done and back together.

4ijPOiX.jpg

 

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1 minute ago, landroversforever said:

IMO they’re just that tight as the torque involved in lorry and tractor wheel nuts will multiply the break off torque required. Think about a LR nut that’s not been undone for a while. 

fronts where nothing like as tight, they should only be about 480nm.... to undo that my big impact should be able (barely) and on the front it did. the back. well....

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What model is your bigger Makita impact wrench?

I’ve just bought their impact driver for doing screws and it’s damn impressive. Was thinking about getting an impact wrench from the same range (I’ve already got a cordless drill too which uses the same batteries & charger) and the DTW1002Z seems like a good price.

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On 2/6/2019 at 4:08 PM, qwakers said:

any users of older kit know what that toggle switch over on the right does? i cant find any form of manual for this.

 

only function of the old welder that i miss is the ability to switch from 2T to 4T...

to revisit this. that toggle switch...

changes the mode from 2t to 4t. nice.

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12 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:

What model is your bigger Makita impact wrench?

I’ve just bought their impact driver for doing screws and it’s damn impressive. Was thinking about getting an impact wrench from the same range (I’ve already got a cordless drill too which uses the same batteries & charger) and the DTW1002Z seems like a good price.

I bought a DTW1002Z back in May, very good so far, only had a couple of nuts where it struggled initially. Much better value than Milwaukee equivalents. 

The usual high penalty for these type of impact wrenches is the weight and length. So I still use my compact Milwaukee 1/2” for most easy things.

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yeah, considering im pretty sure the bar is about 10 years old. 

 

they more or less accepted the bar broke due to a casting defect. a new bar for about £8, not bad at all,,,,

spot the defect...

78008B12-9052-4BB8-BE7B-E11A6F51DF86.thumb.jpeg.92dae377ccf2dd5d08649b8ae8ce7d32.jpeg

Edited by qwakers
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has anyone used one of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Pro-Digital-Display-Torque-Wrench-Adapter-1-2-1-4-3-4-3-8-Drive-Portable/264418239504?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=564063058462&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

thoughts?

 

ive ordered the 1000nm one. and yes, i am aware its from china and will be a while. it was also cheap enough to take a punt on, whereas all the uk stocked ones, weren't.. 

Edited by qwakers
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