western Posted November 13, 2018 Author Share Posted November 13, 2018 https://www.cornwallmobilewelding.co.uk/ is the guy I've emailed, fairly local to me, waiting for a reply & booked in for Thursday, found that he's booked all day Tues/Weds when I phoned him earlier today, he did ask what wire I had & advised to go to 0.8 nozzle & wire for the material thickness. made a filler plate to cover this hole [ringed in red] at top of door pillar/footwell. think I cut out a bit to much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 6 hours ago, western said: Tried doing some practice welds on 2 scrap bits of metal, I don't think I've got the knowhow or confidence to do the welding on 110, I don't want to mess the new panel & 110 up, so getting someone to do the welding for me, hopefully get a reply, but might not be welded until thursday. do more practice. getting the machine set up right is most important. also on thin stuff don't try to seam weld it, just lots of tacks. and move about, don't just weld in one area, itll distort. strong welds dont have to look great, as long as theres penetration itll be fine, just use a grinder to clean it up! also, a good auto dimming helmet makes All the difference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 13, 2018 Author Share Posted November 13, 2018 Thing is I don't know what a decent weld looks like when just done, but yes will do some more practice, haven't got much scrap to play with though , I bought a good self dimming helmet, it worked well during some practice today. anyway the guy I emailed has replied & is dropping in tomorrow to see what the job is & hopefully make a firm booking for thursday,. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 ignore the front, look at the back. (ok oversimplified but we all have to start somewhere) youre looking for the point to just before you start blowing holes in it. so keep turning the current up until you are getting the weld visible (slight lumpiness and turning blue) on the back of the weld. like i said, it doesn't have to be pretty, and it wont be, ive been welding for years, do a lot of thin stuff and thick (thick is easier, up to a point) and it can still look like ****. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 13, 2018 Author Share Posted November 13, 2018 Thanks for the advice, at least I know what to look for now, I'll do more practice & see what results I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 14, 2018 Author Share Posted November 14, 2018 Tomorrow afternoon is welding day, the guy I booked with is here to get the panel fitted, then I can get it seam sealed & painted & all the other items refitted, then book a retest. which will probably be next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 It’ll be a proud moment when you’re back on the road Ralph 😊👍 I’ve only practiced welding once this year and it’s defo a confidence thing. The guidance from members here is great. Wonder if there’s a welding for beginners section here? 🤔 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 14, 2018 Author Share Posted November 14, 2018 got a bit of cad (cardboard sided design) to do in morning & drill some holes for spotwelds at the door pillar flange, Well be happier when the footwell is in place & solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 New footwell is now fully welded in [not by me] just a general clean up, prime & paint to do after lunch, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 Incoming mist has prevented painting of top coat, [a tomorrow job] but got the primer on & put the tarp on for the night. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 I'm happy with it & that's what matters to me, There's no way I could get anywhere near without lots of practice & time, it'll satisfy the MOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 It's reasonable work, outdoors. I've done worse, and it's lasted fine. I've done better, on the bench, having done all the prep myself. lots of anti rust, high zinc primers, decent top coats and anti corrosion wax and it will last a good long time. G. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 oh yes its certainly sufficient, maybe my standards are a little high for the circumstances nothing a grinder and a flap wheel cant fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 I was thinking that, but it's not seen, so it will do for Western. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 panel was/is zinc coated, used etch primer on top, then a coat of paint, the forward face won't see lots of road dirt/water as I have these fitted https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/defender-front-outrigger-mud-shields-gl1010/ I'm happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 Don't want to jump on the negativity bandwagon but I think we expected something more professional. But as said as long as you're happy and its solid that's what matters. Why the seam weld down the A-pillar? Puddle welding the original spots would have been neater and closer to spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 Nice to see the rust gone and solid metal in its place. I treated my footwells as you describe and the rust is starting to come back under the paint (5 years later so not too bad). What top coat did you use? I just used a cellulose based paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 1 hour ago, Scotts90 said: Don't want to jump on the negativity bandwagon but I think we expected something more professional. But as said as long as you're happy and its solid that's what matters. Why the seam weld down the A-pillar? Puddle welding the original spots would have been neater and closer to spec. a full on professional bodyshop job would have probably been way outside my funds capacity., after all Its a 29 year old 110 & because I didn't drill holes for that part , so I'm not bothered if its totally original or not, it isn't going to be seen once the outer wing is on & the trim material inside is refitted. it's strong & rust free which is exactly what I wanted, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 1 hour ago, monkie said: Nice to see the rust gone and solid metal in its place. I treated my footwells as you describe and the rust is starting to come back under the paint (5 years later so not too bad). What top coat did you use? I just used a cellulose based paint. Top coat will be Arles Blue paint https://paintman.co.uk/shop/land-rover-arles-blue-lrc424/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 That's exactly what I used (Shire Blue though for my 110). I think the rust has come from damp collecting under the floor mats. I don't have mats now. I'm going to rub it down to bare metal and repaint. I used the U-POL Zinc spray first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 16, 2018 Author Share Posted November 16, 2018 welds had seam sealer applied & later a top coat of arles blue paint, steering column, clutch,brake pedal units & servo got a tidy up with some matt black, just waiting for the paint to dry then I can start bolting it back together tomorrow. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Looking tidy Ralph. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 I don’t know if it’s because I’m “up Norf” ..... but I’d slap a good few coats extra on it all..... with the amount of knowledge you have @western this is only a good thing for sure learning about the welds etc..... good job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 Today has seen steering column lower bracket, clutch, brake, accel pedals, brake master cylinder reconnected to servo, right front wing & wiring to front lights routed along inner wing cable clips, coolant header tank, power steering tank all refitted, didn't have any alignment problems. front right lights, grille, floor panel to refit tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Looking good . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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