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western

footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

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https://www.cornwallmobilewelding.co.uk/ is the guy I've emailed, fairly local to me,  waiting for a reply & booked in for Thursday, found that he's booked all day Tues/Weds when I phoned him earlier today, he did ask what wire I had & advised to go to 0.8 nozzle & wire for the material thickness. 

made a filler plate to cover this hole [ringed in red] at top of door pillar/footwell. think I cut out a bit to much.

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6 hours ago, western said:

Tried doing some practice welds on 2 scrap bits of metal, I don't think I've got the knowhow or confidence to do the welding on 110, I don't want to mess the new panel & 110 up, so getting someone to do the welding for me, hopefully get a reply, but might not be welded until thursday. 

do more practice. getting the machine set up right is most important. also on thin stuff don't try to seam weld it, just lots of tacks. and move about, don't just weld in one area, itll distort.

 

strong welds dont have to look great, as long as theres penetration itll be fine, just use a grinder to clean it up!

 

also, a good auto dimming helmet makes All the difference.

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Thing is I don't know what a decent weld looks like when just done, but yes will do some more practice, haven't got much scrap to play with though ,  I bought a good self dimming helmet, it worked well during some practice today. 

anyway the guy I emailed has replied & is dropping in tomorrow to see what the job is & hopefully make a firm booking for thursday,.

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ignore the front, look at the back. (ok oversimplified but we all have to start somewhere)

 

youre looking for the point to just before you start blowing holes in it.

so keep turning the current up until you are getting the weld visible (slight lumpiness and turning blue) on the back of the weld. like i said, it doesn't have to be pretty, and it wont be, ive been welding for years, do a lot of thin stuff and thick (thick is easier, up to a point) and it can still look like ****.

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Thanks for the advice, at least I know what to look for now, I'll do more practice & see what results I get.

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Tomorrow afternoon is welding day, the guy I booked with is here to get the panel fitted, then I can get it seam sealed & painted & all the other items refitted, then book a retest. which will probably be next week.

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It’ll be a proud moment when you’re back on the road Ralph 😊👍 I’ve only practiced welding once this year and it’s defo a confidence thing. The guidance from members here is great. Wonder if there’s a welding for beginners section here? 🤔 

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got a bit of cad (cardboard sided design) to do in morning & drill some holes for spotwelds at the door pillar flange,  Well be happier when the footwell is in place & solid. 

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New footwell is now fully welded in [not by me] just a general clean up, prime & paint to do after lunch, 

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Incoming mist has prevented paining of top coat, [a tomorrow job] but got the primer on  & put the tarp on for the night. 

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huh

 

 

well i can say ive seen (and done!) worse welding, its not terrible, but id expect better from a pro....

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I'm happy with it & that's what matters to me, There's no way I could get anywhere near without lots of practice & time, it'll satisfy the MOT.  

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It's reasonable work, outdoors.  I've done worse, and it's lasted fine.

I've done better, on the bench, having done all the prep myself.

lots of anti rust, high zinc primers, decent top coats and anti corrosion wax and it will last a good long time.

G.

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oh yes its certainly sufficient, maybe my standards are a little high for the circumstances :D  nothing a grinder and a flap wheel cant fix. 

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I was thinking that, but it's not seen, so it will do for Western.

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Don't want to jump on the negativity bandwagon but I think we expected something more professional. But as said as long as you're happy and its solid that's what matters.

Why the seam weld down the A-pillar? Puddle welding the original spots would have been neater and closer to spec.

 

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Nice to see the rust gone and solid metal in its place. I treated my footwells as you describe and the rust is starting to come back under the paint (5 years later so not too bad). What top coat did you use? I just used a cellulose based paint.

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1 hour ago, Scotts90 said:

Don't want to jump on the negativity bandwagon but I think we expected something more professional. But as said as long as you're happy and its solid that's what matters.

Why the seam weld down the A-pillar? Puddle welding the original spots would have been neater and closer to spec.

 

a full on professional bodyshop job would have probably been way outside my funds capacity., after all Its a 29 year old 110 & because I didn't drill holes for that part , so I'm not bothered if its totally original or not, it isn't going to be seen once the outer wing is on & the trim material inside is refitted.  it's strong & rust free which is exactly what I wanted,

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1 hour ago, monkie said:

Nice to see the rust gone and solid metal in its place. I treated my footwells as you describe and the rust is starting to come back under the paint (5 years later so not too bad). What top coat did you use? I just used a cellulose based paint.

Top coat will be Arles Blue paint 

https://paintman.co.uk/shop/land-rover-arles-blue-lrc424/ 

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That's exactly what I used (Shire Blue though for my 110). I think the rust has come from damp collecting under the floor mats. I don't have mats now. I'm going to rub it down to bare metal and repaint. I used the U-POL Zinc spray first.

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welds had seam sealer applied & later a top coat of arles blue paint, steering column, clutch,brake pedal units & servo got a tidy up with some matt black, just waiting for the paint to dry then I can start bolting it back together tomorrow.

 

 

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Looking tidy Ralph.

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I don’t know if it’s because I’m “up Norf” ..... but I’d slap a good few coats extra on it all..... with the amount of knowledge you have @western this is only a good thing for sure learning about the welds etc..... 

good job 

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Today has seen steering column lower bracket, clutch, brake, accel pedals, brake master cylinder reconnected to servo, right front wing & wiring to front lights routed along inner wing cable clips, coolant header tank, power steering tank all refitted, didn't have any alignment problems. 

front right lights, grille, floor panel to refit tomorrow.

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