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Coolant marks


reb78

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Whilst the 110 was on the ramp at the weekend to drop the gearbox, I made the mistake of looking at the front of the engine and spotted some coolant marks at the bottom of the timing case behind the crank pulley. The engine is a 200tdi defender engine. Pic below. Where on earth has this come from?! I cant see anything higher up, the water pump is directly above this. There are no marks around it, but it is oily up there so a chance that nothing sticks around that area. Any ideas?

 

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Leakage higher up for sure, bright light and start tracing stuff above, top tip, get a clear header tank, nice and handy for seeing if you have any wee leaks going on.

I double clamped a few of my hoses as i just couldn't stop them from seeping, that seemed tp do the job.

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  • 2 months later...

So after finishing a fair bit of welding, gearbox replacement and replacing the rear tub crossmember (and getting it MOT'd), I finally got a chance to look at this. 

There are weeps galore from the the thermostat housing - all hoses and the gasket to the head! 

So, I need a new stat housing to head gasket, but what is making these hoses weep? The jubilee clips are tight, the top hose and bypass hose are both Bearmach and only a year old, the bottom hose is genuine and doesnt appear to be weeping at all. Should I just bite the bullet and replace the top hoses with genuine?

 

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I dont think it is the HG. Hope not anyway. We did that 12 months ago (i knew it had gone then as it spat most of the coolant out of the expansion tank. These pipes were all fitted then and they were quite hard to fit so I was wondering if they hadn’t sealed properly. 

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Antifreeze is very "searching" - and 30-odd-year-old aluminium housings often have a nasty degree of pitting on the places where hoses have to seal.

If you're lucky you will be able to remove the various housings and clean them up - lap the gasket-faces of things like thermostat-housings on a piece of plate-glass using valve-grinding-paste until the faces are uniformly grey without any pits. On the stubs where hoses have to seal, wire-brush first, then use wet&dry to again remove all the surface-imperfections. If you can't get a uniformly-grey, smooth-to-the-touch surface all the way round the hose-stubs, apply the Navy-standard flotation-test[1] and if the part fails, buy a new one.

Some people suggest using bathroom silicone-sealant to 'fill' the pitted surfaces on aluminium coolant-parts. It may work short-term but the problem is that most silicone-sealants are 'acid-cure' - smell it! The acids released will further corrode the aluminium, guaranteeing that the problem will recur.



[1] Throw the part into standing water at least five fathoms deep. If it floats, the part can safely be re-used.

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