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Ishanand

Defender 110 TD5 2006

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Just a little background, I got into an accident earlier this year and in the final stage of repairing my vehicle. The steering is a very stiff at some points in turning.

BTW I struck a pole on the left front of the vehicle. No engine damage but a solid knock.

My mechanic is having a little difficulty in figuring out what is causing this stiffness. 

Any insight to this will be greatly appreciated.

 

WP_20160415_09_55_15_Pro.jpg

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Usual suspects... Steering column ujs (lubricate) , swivel bearings (collapsed) , steering damper (damaged), CV joint (damaged).

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Did you hit the front wheel in the accident? The steering rack could be bent or the steering box damaged.

Or the swivel ball joint.

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If the steering is stiff at the same point of rotation on each turn of the steering wheel, I'd say it's most likely a damaged steering box.

 

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4 hours ago, Lightning said:

Did you hit the front wheel in the accident? The steering rack could be bent or the steering box damaged.

Or the swivel ball joint.

Er, it doesn't have a steering rack.

Mo

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Disconnect the front drag link.  See if it is still stiff.  This will tell you if it is the steering shaft or box.  If not, then reconnect and disconnect the rear drag link.  You will then know which wheel is the problem.  

Oh, and find a new mechanic.  This is pretty basic troubleshooting.

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3 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:

Er, it doesn't have a steering rack.

Mo

Sorry no of course it doesn’t 

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Good Day All,

Just got some feedback from my mechanic on steering issues. He has recommended that I need to change out the box. He is getting a refurbished box for about 500 pounds.

Two questions;

  1. Is this a good option and are there any key questions I should ask before installing.
  2. Is this a good price.

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1. No its not a good option, don't get a refurbished box, get a new one. refurbished PAS steering boxes have a history of premature failure.

2. Considering you're in Trinidad, can't really comment on price, but £500 is what I would be expecting to pay for a Brand new adwest box here in the UK.

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It is the most likely diagnosis, but can be confirmed by disconnecting the drag link (rod from PAS box to the far end of the axle) and then moving the road wheels from lock to lock, feeling for binding.  If smooth, then it's the box.

As said above, refurbished boxes are notorious for early failure.  Most last six months.  This is because most refurbishers merely take old units from scrapped vehicles and repaint them, replacing the external seals if you're lucky but not stripping them to replace bearings or :seal lands", the polished parts of shafts that run against the seals, which become worn and pitted with age.  Only get a new one or one rebuilt by Adwest themselves.  500GBP would be a reasonable price new, or for a recon unit with shipping.  The bulk of the bad recon units sold for around 150-200GBP.

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Thanks Snagger for that detailed response. I have made up my mind that I am going to buy a new one. I have two choices at the moment. Can you kindly tell me which is the better.

1. image.png.d4b9ac80e51700ce2720f75a6e2ca8ab.png

 

2. image.png.9c77d22e63b83743c3bae89761bf0d0e.png

image.png

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Both are probably the same part.  The green website claims it's from Land Rover, so should be Gen Parts packaged and thus subject to full quality control.  I can't see anything on the other site to that effect, though it does say new and has the correct manufacturer's name.  The photo does show the Defender version of the drop arm, with integral ball joint.  The Discovery and RRC box is the same, but uses a different drop arm and a drag link with removable rod end (easier to replace when worn out).

Without checking exchange rates to compare exact costs and knowing the traders' reputations, I can't recommend one over the other.  My preferred supplier for mail order is always Dunsfold Land Rover, and I'd suggest you email them  to see if they can send you one and at what price - their service is truly excellent and I have found their prices very competitive.  They don't sell rubbish, either.

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Adwest (or Magal as it's now known) stopped making the boxes when Defender production ended, so stock will be disappearing (or already gone) and recon or copies will become the only option in future.

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Thanks all I am going to contact Dunsfold now.

Thanks Lightning I will send an updated pic as soon as it is back up and running. 

I really do appreciate the feedback. 

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Hello ,

My vehicle is back on the road. Took it for a long run this weekend. On the way back another driver pulled up alongside and told me that the rear of the vehicle was off from the front. I am sorry but I just cannot describe this properly. When I got home I took a look underneath and noticed that the lower link on the right back was a bent a bit. I have not taken the vehicle to be aligned as yet. Note when I got into the accident last year the rear ball joint assembly was damaged and had to be replaced.

Here is a pic of my vehicle. 

WP_20190322_06_29_02_Pro.jpg

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12 hours ago, Ishanand said:

Hello ,

My vehicle is back on the road. Took it for a long run this weekend. On the way back another driver pulled up alongside and told me that the rear of the vehicle was off from the front. I am sorry but I just cannot describe this properly. When I got home I took a look underneath and noticed that the lower link on the right back was a bent a bit. I have not taken the vehicle to be aligned as yet. Note when I got into the accident last year the rear ball joint assembly was damaged and had to be replaced.

Here is a pic of my vehicle. 

WP_20190322_06_29_02_Pro.jpg

The term used is normally "crabbing" when the rear wheels do not follow the line of the front. If your trailing arm is bent it will cause this as it pulls the rear axle out of alignment with chassis. a replacement will hopefully correct it, but it would be worth checking the chassis for twist. easiest way to this would be to measure diagonally from four points on the chassis extremities and ensure they are equal. I believe there is a post on the forum describing this check somewhere. 

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Good Day All,

I have sorted out the lower link issues. I have been to the alignment shop and was advised that the rear axle is slightly off from the front. The technician had me looked at the vehicle from the back. What we noted that while standing at the right back we could see a bit of the front wheel. However when standing at the left back we could not see the left front wheel. He suggested that I get my mechanic to have a look at the "king pins" to see if an adjustment is required. Can anyone share there thoughts and expertise on this.

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Have you checked the chassis to make sure it's square? Check the rear axle is parallel to the chassis with a straight edge along the wheel rims. Has it got a lift kit as this will move the front axle to one side if not using an adjustable panhard rod?

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