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BogMonster

Glue for holding on door seals

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I'm trying to fit a new Defender 110 rear 2nd row side door seal. It's a Britpart seal, and not a very good fit. Two problems, firstly it just won't stay on, and secondly I also want to glue it to retain it (won't bore you with the details but wife uses it for hire and reward work and the 2nd row occupants always pull the damned things off.

I thought I'd put some black silicone sealant on the lip before fitting it, fit the seal, close the door and job done. Wrong. The damn thing won't even stay on long enough to close the door with silicone in the gap, just slides off where it bends around the barrel sides. Much cursing and various solvents and I have got rid of most of the sealant.

Does anybody know (from experience please, not guesswork) if there are any glues will stick to whatever the door seal is made out of (unsure if it is rubber or some other material) to bond the thing on? I cannot be the only person ever to have had this problem...

Second question, is the Britpart seal normally rubbish? Option 2 is bin it and go and get a genuine one, though even if they are in stock, I know they are hideously expensive. But I'd still like to stick it on.

Ta :)

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I have battled with a Britpart seal in the past, it would go on but fall off after a few days no matter what I tried. It was simply the wrong shape.

Bit the bullet and bought a genuine one, went straight on and is still there to this day. 

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Steve,

I have never had a seal fall off like that... The ones I've fitted have had a metal internal structure that clamps the rubber to the aperture... Have a look and see if you can't crimp the gap in the rubber tighter to hold while the sealant / glue of choice cures.... If needed.

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Yeah, done that already but it makes no difference. The problem is that the wife uses it for off road tours with tourists and they are usually fat and American so can hardly get in and out anyway, they grab the top of the door or kick the bottom of the seal off and then usually shut it in the door to finish the job.

Sounds like the genuine mortgage is the way to go. I've fitted a few genuine seals in the past on various vehicles, and never had more than a bit of muttering to contend with. I guess that is why they are £80 and the ****part one was £15.

  • Haha 1

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Sounds like the one option left then....

How about some of the windscreen type bonding stuff inside the seal as well?

It holds glass onto the side of vans and windscreens onto the front of cars after all....

(Caterhams use it to hold mudguards on their cars...)

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Hmm, there's an idea. Will see if I can find some. Thanks.

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Sikaflex? Tiger seal. Clamp for 12 hours. You'll need a knife to remove!

 

G.

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Sikaflex/tiger seal will hold it on you may need to tape it in place over night though. However now you have used silicone you are screwed, once silicone has been used it's almost impossible to remove completely. It leaves a residue that nothing will stick to.  Sorry but I've said it before and I'll say it again the only place for silicone is a bathroom.......

Mike 

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Notwithstanding Mike's 'nothing will stick' admonishment, has anyone tried Gorilla Glue?  

I have only limited experience, but after using it I mentioned the success and several others around the table had been similarly impressed with their experiences.
I had been expecting something like a professional quality superglue, but it's several degrees away from what I had experienced.
The instructions required the parts being held together, but adhesive tape will do, it doesn't need a G clamp.
There is a warning that the glue will expand as it hardens, so I guess there is some sort of chemical reaction with the moisture content.

Anyway, worth a try, I think.

Regards.

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gorilla glue is a expanding polyurethane adhesive (not to be confused with what you get out of a sikaflex tube) its great, as long as at least one surface is porus. so wont work for this.

 

wood to fibreglass though? works very well.😂

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"Gorilla glue" is these days a brandname covering a range of different products, just like "WD40" can mean the original water-dispersant along with a bunch of degreasers/contact-cleaners/silicone-lubricants sold under the same brand.

IMHO if you are using proper seals they shouldn't need any sort of goop to keep them in-place. No goop was used on the original LR production-line, after all.

Spend your time and money on proper seals, not on a sticky-stuff pikey 'fix-up' for cheap B******t carp.

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tiger seal for sure - got some on 90 bodywork around 9 yrs ago and its still there so safe to say sticks well.

 

 

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8 hours ago, Tanuki said:

"Gorilla glue" is these days a brandname covering a range of different products,

http://uk.gorillaglue.com/products  
It surely is!!

8 hours ago, Tanuki said:

Spend your time and money on proper seals, not on a sticky-stuff pikey 'fix-up' for cheap B******t carp.

Glad we got that cleared up 🙂

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Original parts all the way 

The OE door seals are a joy to fit, with only your tears at the cost to spoil the moment.

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I would still endeavour to get the silicone off the door seal seam, even fitting new ones will mean they want to slide off... silicone is an excellent lubricant.

This may help: 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/88987

Along with solvents like brake cleaner and meths.

It is horrid stuff to get rid of.

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Contact cleaner, wire brush on the rust, Kurust, primer and paint should sort the silicone residue issue I think :)

Now got a genuine seal so just waiting for the primer to dry.

Some useful links to products there, thanks.

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