Battery charging/maintaining with Anderson connector

[simonpelly]

Hi Folks,

Thinking of fitting an Anderson style connector to my Defender 110 300 Tdi 

Our Defender is out of the garage about once every couple of weeks at the moment at best (Grrr). When it's been really cold, the engine does start first time but you can tell the battery is really working hard. Suspect that the battery is loosing some of its level during these start times (expected?) - it's only 3 years old.

So, wondering if it would be a good idea to fit an Anderson style connector so that we can leave a battery charger hooked up when in the garage.

As not planning on using this connector for jump starting, thinking along lines of the smaller 50Amp connector and running 6mm cable (inline fuse on live) to the battery. Probably mount the connector on the front of the battery box (rubber grommet/etc...). My charger's output is 20A when charging.

Looking for opinions generally on whether this is a good idea. Thoughts?

Many Thanks,

Simon...

Edited December 17, 2018 by simonpelly

[Stellaghost]

Have had one on my lightweight for years now and I charge via it as battery not very accessable under bucket seats 

[Ex Member]

Just buy a mainteainer and mount it in the battery box.  Run the cord out to front.  Plug it in when parked.

[Boris113]

Depending what type of charger you use, you may well be able to get a connector from the manufacturer. I use a C-tek maintenance charger which is permanently connected to the vehicle when parked and it has a little socket which pokes out by the passenger seat to connect into. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-Indicator-eyelet-practical-indication/dp/B002MT8S7E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002MT8S7E&pd_rd_r=7eaa9d0b-0215-11e9-877d-f372ef316dca&pd_rd_w=WP0EF&pd_rd_wg=CNvsl&pf_rd_p=466c8fd0-3653-4c9b-86fa-f9bc8fd2ae35&pf_rd_r=W1Y4C1Y6V1996C5EJY7G&psc=1&refRID=W1Y4C1Y6V1996C5EJY7G

[TSD]

If you aren't planning to use it for jump starting, then a big Anderson connector is maybe a bit OTT. The PP15 (or 30/45)  is much smaller and more than up to the job. But much as I like Anderson connectors, I'd prefer something better sealed or at least easier to seal, to keep the weather out. Any moisture that gets in there promotes corrosion when it is charging.

I have two isolated batteries to keep charged in each vehicle, so I have a 4-pin Amphenol C16 connector mounted on the rear body. The cable connectors are really well sealed, the chassis mount one seals well on the outside, and you can get screw on sealing caps for both for when they are not in use. Mine charges on the driveway all the time in all weathers and has shown no leaks at all in 5 years. I made a custom cable to connect one charger to each battery through the one cable. Not the cheapest, but worth it, at least for me.

If you don't have a switch inside the car, put a small fuse inline to prevent the gremlins bu66ering about while you're parked up. Fused just above the charger rating ideally. My trickle chargers only output an amp max, so 2A mini blades fuses work nicely.

Also, think up some method to prevent either forgetting to plug the charger in for months on end (done that ) and also prevent driving away with the charger plugged in (done that too ).

If you have towing electrics with a constant 12v feed, you could always plug the charger in there instead? I did that on my D3.

[miketomcat]

1 hour ago, TSD said:

 

If you have towing electrics with a constant 12v feed, you could always plug the charger in there instead? I did that on my D3.

I used the towing plug on my camping trailer to charge it on the drive for a while. It worked well, I then fitted mains hook up so fitted a charger. I used a Halfords motorbike charger 2 or 4 amps but more than enough to keep the battery topped. It's the one that looks like a ctek.

Mike

[Mo Murphy]

Could you charge the battery through the 12v permanent live that goes into the rear light box ?

Mo

[Tanuki]

I've got a couple of the standard DIN type 12V power-outlets (with waterproofing covers) mounted on the outside of my 90; I use them to power lights/radios etc when camping.

https://www.durite.co.uk/ItemDetails/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemNumber=060119&SingleResultCriteria=&catid=55585

They're wired direct to the battery through 16A fuses - so I can also use them as connectors for trickle-charging if needs arise.

[Diff]

I use a charger connected to a 12v accessory plug. Just plug in to the cigarette lighter socket.

Regards, Diff.

[Maverik]

For the 5 Mountain rescue trucks, I installed a tail with 50amp Anderson connections on that poke up next to the outer seat rail. I then got a CTEK MXS 25 25A jobby and chopped the clamps off and installed an Anderson connector to it, I kept a short tail on the clamps and then terminated those onto a Anderson connector too, works a treat, and pretty monkey proof too.

[ThreeSheds]

I'm not too confident with modern car electrics, but reading through the above posts, it seems that the (I think common nowadays) owner handbook advice to "remove the battery from the vehicle before charging" and the frightening warning that "failure to do so could cause severe damage to the vehicle's electrical system" are perhaps a bit over the top?

Sorry that this is a little off-topic (ie not Anderson connector related), but I think it is close enough since charging with a permanent connection implies that it's being done without disconnecting the battery...

I have a D2 (who's handbook has those warnings) and regularly connect a trickle charger to it without ill effect, but I must admit that the same warnings on the D4 do have me concerned...

Your thoughts and comments are appreciated and should any damage actually result, then I promise that nobody except me will be held to blame

 

Roger

[cackshifter]

On ‎12‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 7:51 PM, TSD said:

 

Also, think up some method to prevent either forgetting to plug the charger in for months on end (done that ) and also prevent driving away with the charger plugged in (done that too ). 

I think some emergency vehicles have plug ejectors - when the ignition is turned on the charging plug gets thrown out. You'd need to detect it was plugged in even if the power wasn't on, so maybe use 2 pins on the plug to switch something? Maybe just a warning on the dash or a starter inhibit relay? Or just have a very strong charging lead.

[simonpelly]

"starter inhibit relay" - Good thought. Easy to achieve too....

[Oakmaster]

Where do I start? every comment is relevant to me at this moment, so please bear with me .

I have a 175A Andrersen in the passenger footwell and a 20 foot jump lead, so far Ive never needed it for for ME but I do help out other people, like the chap who flaged me down in central hereford and said - "you have a Landrover - you must have jump leads" (that I think reflects well on us as a group)

I think that fitting the Anderson / Andersen is well worth it - just to save the friging about with the seat squab. (defender puma) 

Ive also decided to change everything I have over to Andersen 50A, and lacking the crimping tool, have worked out a way of soldering them (but I worry about melting the solder? - should I worry?) 

Q1 - is soldering Anderson 50A OK? 

I have the 110 Puma mentioned, a 1989 110 V8, a 1955 S1, a VW 1988 T4 Camper (with leisure battery, and is for sale) my wifes BMW, and my daughters VW Fox  some of these are on a constant trickle or maintenace charge, via Aldi or Lidl 'inteligent chargers' around 6 of them - the problem is that when we get a powercut (frequently) the Aldi / Lidl chargrs do not re-set (not so 'inteligent')

To address this: I overcame my 'cautious' tendencies and bought a CETK charger, which is excelent - it has revitalised many batteries, and after a power cut just starts up with no fuss.  the Aldi / Lidl have to be re-set which is a pain in the butt.

Q2 - is there a affordable maintenence / trickle charger that auto resets?  It needs to be afordable because there are 6 vehicles, and  3 associated spare batteries.

I also have 2 lawn tractors / ride-on mowers, just because, - (though I was a lot fitter when I chased the push mower around, now I think Im reliving my farm-hand days)

I have used motorbike jump cables to start them ( I wish I'd googled 'motorbike jump cables' before buying the bits and making my own)   and I have 2 'OK' / 'pretty good' 12v compresors (2 because having suggested to my wife this would be a great Christmas pressent, I forgot and bought myself one! - Doh!  - which was made worse because i did the same the previous year with a carpenters tool belt! -But  you just cant have too many tool belts! ) 

The compressors not only inflate the various vehicle tyres, but also the mowers, the mower accessories (trailer, 'scratter / harrow'. roller etc - land's cheaper where I live!) and the wheel barrows, sack trucks etc ( I did spend a lot of time filling every tyre with this anti leak 'stuff' which resulted in them all deflating - there is another story)

I have bought the componets to make the whole (low ampage) set up work based around the 50 Amp Anderson conectors .

Q3 - can anyone recomend a tyre sealant that works?

I was thinking that I could use 10 Amp breakers for all circuits that dont involve jump starting the mowers?

I have made-up a 'power pack' using 4x12V batteries surplus from the UPS  packs we use at work (regenerated using the CETK charger)  this works just fine.

I realise this is long and rambling, so thank you to anyone still reading:

Auto eject - 

In 1994 we exported a Green Oak framed house to Martha's Vinyard in the USA - the local cop drove a Chevvy Blazer that they had bought from a police Department in Alaska - when we got pulled over (inevitable) the guy (once he made us do the sobriety tests) took us through ALL the various systems that had been fitted to make this a vechicle that would start on demand (another long story) - it was covered with  'auto ejects'

Having draged a 150 foot extension (in the sodding VW Camper) down to the nearest shop, I can strongly recomend tying the mains lead of anything 240V you have on board ( I had 2 chargers, main and liesure. a greenhouse heater to keep the manky condensation off, and a light - more to illuminate our wandering about)

I can strongly recomend tying the mains / power lead / cord cable - to (and throug) the handle of the drivers door handle.

 

 

 

 

any advice would be appreciated 

 

[TSD]

11 hours ago, Oakmaster said:

Q1 - is soldering Anderson 50A OK? 

Not really, but that rarely seems to stop anyone The problems come when using the correct size cable for the crimp, when it's difficult to get good solder penetration through the cable without melting all the insulation (so poor current handling),  and if you manage it, the sharp change of stiffness in the cable (promotes breakage of the cable strands).

If you're making cables for trickle charging you'll likely be using undersize wire for the terminal, so soldering makes sense and isn't too hard if you've got a decent iron. Anderson does (or did at least) make reducing ferrules for crimping undersize wires into their terminals.

If you are using full size wire (i.e. that more or less fills the anderson terminal) then the Durite 'hammer' crimp tool (Durite 0-703-90) should be useable and isn't too spendy.

11 hours ago, Oakmaster said:

Q2 - is there a affordable maintenence / trickle charger that auto resets?  It needs to be afordable because there are 6 vehicles, and  3 associated spare batteries

If you want shiny, the CTEK 0.8 Motorcycle chargers are fine for the job, and cheaper than the 'big number' versions, though still not exactly cheap. I use a pair of them for exactly this job, but I didn't pay anything like list price.

These are worth a look at a more sensible price?

On past experience Mascot will be at least as well built as a CTek. The trader sells around various techie boot sales (think Sodbury with more wires). The units are used and probably a bit grubby, but a friend bought a couple last year and seems happy with them.

Edited February 1, 2019 by TSD
bodged the hyperlink