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Posted (edited)

As it was Megasquirt and I had a Wide Band. I fitted the bung after I was sure this would all work together.

 

The position is a compromise but seems to work.

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Edited by keeley75

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Posted (edited)

So that's exhaust system complete using stock parts and mountings and sits up and out of the way.

Note though you must use the Disco V8 slimline front prop to ensure clearance between the sump and exhaust.

Whilst fiddling with mine and checking the splines and joints. It might of separated in my hands. Not my fault.

This will help 

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Edited by keeley75

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Posted (edited)

Fuel system next.

This is where I ended up going round in circles.

I needed a high pressure pump with a flow and a return. 

I had a TD5 pump and system. This wasn't going to be suitable obviously.

The TD4 or Puma system has a VDO fuel level sender without a pump fitted. Wiring wise it uses an econoseal plug and the TD5 uses a BMW type affair with wiring for the sender and power for the electric pump.

Initially I thought about using the TD4 sender and sucking it out of the tank to the engine.using the standard TD4 lines and utilising the Fuel filter.

I got a set of lines and it was all looking good.

However, You can't really get a pump that will suck with enough oomph and has enough pressure to feed the fuel rail. You can get one that will draw enough fuel to fill a swirl pot and have a secondary High Pressure fuel pump to feed the V8.

This was getting complicated.

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Edited by keeley75

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I wanted a system with an inline fuel filter and only 1 pump.

Parts book in hand and Google. I discovered the South African BMW engined 2.8L Defender 90 pump was the pump I required. It was a VDO Part. It was also in stock at Island 4x4.

I wanted to hardline the fuel system but with the amount of fittings required there were more joints for potential leaks. So I used braided fuel lines.

I also wanted a genuine land rover fuel filter for servicing.

The VDO pump uses a standard 4 pin econoseal plug for level and power.

I couldn't get a Defender td5 rear chassis loom anywhere so I settled for the TD4 version which plugs directly into the TD5 bulkhead loom.

I had to strip the loom down however and add two wires to power the in tank fuel pump.

I had to pop the body on to check for clearance between the chassis and body for the lines.

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Posted (edited)

Its up here in the bulkhead multi plugs you will find the wiring that fed things like the rear lighting, fuel sender and fuel pump wiring. The rear loom just needs connecting. In my case that's a TD4 rear loom connected to the TD5 loom with the addition of power feed for the pump. This loom also has the wiring for the rear speakers.

 

I used standard Lucas colour coding as per the wiring diagram. White and Purple.

It helps to have spare plugs and terminals.

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Edited by keeley75

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5 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

Question is - is he going to finish before you @landroversforever?

:popcorn-and-drink-smiley-emotic

:lol: with my rate of progress Vs this build..... I think we all know the answer! 

 

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Without working out the dates.... mine's got to be about similar too :) It had been off the road about ~6months by the time I got the workshop in October 2013.

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Some Time ago I purchased some bits from AlliSport.

Heater Matrix which is an easy fit once you have modified the heater box.

 

It apparently makes a difference. As I was going soft top winter would be my excuse for fitting one.

You can see the core is nearly double. I can confirm it does seem to maintain its heat when getting pumped into the cab.

 

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I got one of these as well. It's for the V8 and has engine oil cooler as well as gearbox coolers fitted.IMG_7154.jpg.8fcf2ac4ac8a2476c3716d1ed50b1242.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Also an Auto Gearbox cooler was obtained and sits neatly across the front of the rad. It uses existing holes in the chassis that support the slam panel bars

 

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I was trying to replicate this. I wanted the same setup that the V8 Disco has. I had the Bog brush cooler from the Disco but it was too big and would require mounting somewhere behind the bumper where a winch would sit. The V8 Disco has flow into left hand side of the radiator and and into an external cooler. When I was working out which pipes to fit I discovered the Defender never had this setup. The Disco was given extra cooling due to its extensive use as a shed dragger and towing rig. I wanted extra cooling on the Defender as It makes Gearboxes last longer. Plus I do Tow quite a bit. 

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Edited by keeley75

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This is How Land Rover did it in the USA and Prob on the 50th.

Pic courtesy of ECR.

The auto box on the defender V8 goes directly into a remote cooler and not at any stage into the radiator 

I'm going have fun here with LR pipework and see how I can get the Disco set up into the Defender.

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Posted (edited)

However this diagram contradicts that.

 

Pipe 3,4 and 5 were ordered from Craddocks.

Pipe 5 and 3 worked fine.

Pipe 4 was exactly the same as the one on the disco. I appears to be designed to route under the from dumb iron and around the front. However it didn't fit

 

Im now confused.

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Edited by keeley75

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Posted (edited)

Pipe 3 has a temp warning sender fitted in it. This requires 2 wires run to the bulkhead multi plug. When the sensor goes over range it earths the warning light. The Td5 dash has provision for transmission over heat warning and illuminates a couple of red Cogs.

 

 

Edited by keeley75

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Posted (edited)

I ended up taking pipe 4 to Pirtek. The chap there chopped it up and braised some fittings onto the ends. This allowed me to run the pipe  into the external cooler, under the front cross member and up into the Rad.

Gearbox cooling now sorted. t will need a pipe clamp to reduce any movement. It will go on when the winch bumper is fitted and I can finalise this pipe.

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Edited by keeley75

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That is looking *way* too clean under there...

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The underside of the Bulkhead cleaned and painted. No rust present but Buzz Weld paint brushed on to give it that extra layer.

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Power Steering Box was in excellent condition and when I drove TKUT the steering was accurate with no play or wobble. Amazing for a Disco.....

Before fitting though I decided to change the problematic lower seal.

As I was going to all this effort I thought I would fit a Zeus seal kit.

 

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Posted (edited)

Here is the Zeus seal

It comprises of a stainless steel carrier with an internal seal.This is an interference fit on the  rotating shaft. On the bottom side there is another seal that then sits inside the casing of the steering box. The whole lot is then held in with a circlip.

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Edited by keeley75

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Posted (edited)

For me this Zeus Kit didn't work it now sits on the workshop shelf.

 

Here's why 

In Pic 3 the seal is pushed over the steering shaft. The bottom o ring does not make contact with the casing or seal against anything. You can't fit a bigger O ring as the cut is too shallow. When I spoke to Zeus about this they accepted that this wasn't right but had no cure other than try a different steering box.

So I just put a new seal kit in and wasted 3 hrs of my life and learnt my lesson.

Gwyn Lewis supplied the Steering bars and damper bracket (Sumo). Thankfully I'm able to benefit from the Disco style drop arm ball joint and not the less serviceable Defender type.

 

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Edited by keeley75

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Thanks for all your kind words. This is a real labour of love and is going to be last Defender I ever do and I will not sell it.

However I still want to do a Series 2 and a 2 door RR Classic.

I got this pic from the painters today. They are doing everything off the car for me. I will hold back on the colour reveal......

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Posted (edited)

Next Job was the engine.

 

Although already Megasquirted and running. It looked a bit tatty and I had a Kent Cams H180 cam sat under the desk.

Whilst I was at it I may as well renew the sensors and get some decent coil pack mounts as the ones made were erm shed built.

My aim was to try and get the engine running because I wanted to check the Gearbox was functioning correctly. (and didn't pee ATF everywhere after the effort with hoses)

I also needed to wire in a suitable speed transducer and get it to talk to the TD5 clocks.

Plus I needed that kick to get the project moving.

So I dug out the previous megasquirt wiring and just sat and laughed. Everything I had ever read about installs, poor earths, signal noise and general techochattery was blown away. This lot worked somehow.

 

I sent the pics to Nigel and he made some comments which remain between us.

However he did mention how forgiving Megasquirt was...........................

 

So off to Nigel's shedporium and collect a loom and lots and lots of other bits.

 

 

 

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Edited by keeley75

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The engine currently had some unknown injectors and a 4.6 plenum. The front pulleys had been adapted to take the huge hydraulic pump to drive the two winches. I had the Engine and ancillaries out of TKUT so I reckon I could get it all factory again.

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I stripped off the front end and discovered the front cam bearing had picked up. It had turned or been incorrectly installed so the oil hole in the shell was no longer lined up with the block.The bearing was trashed and would have resulted in an engine failure. I had caught this in time. The rest of the engine checked out fine and had fresh heads on it by the previous owner/builder. I am aiming in the future to drop a 4.6 or 5.2 in it so I wasn't going to spend too much time or money in here.

I put the Cam in and the pedestals required shimming. Thankfully you tend to have this stuff lying about after a few rebuilds. New timing chain and followers went in with the new cam bearing.

 

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