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Posted (edited)

Stick a new Trigger Wheel onto the crank pulley and set the air gap. Crank Sensor misses the gearbox pipes.

This vid again from Nigel is the easiest way to get it right..

https://youtu.be/0GHldV2aKg4

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Edited by keeley75

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Put the front end back on and order its of different top and bottom hoses to find ones that fit

You can see the mock up for the Gearbox cooler pipe in Pic 1 and 2.

 

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Stick a new Auto Pedal in it this was from the V8 Disco.

Nothing but a bit of grinding and welding is require. The TD5 brake pedal lever has a double bend in it. When straightened out, makes the pedal sit more naturally. You can weld the lever to the centre of the pedal.

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Breathing next.

I wanted the car to look as standard as possible. Stupidly I had donated a V8 90 Airbox to the white defender.

The Disco V8 Airbox is tiny. Well the intake trumpet is. From what I've read here this was to help with economy (laugh).

The TD5 airbox fitted in the engine bay behind the V8 with no problems so it seemed logical to use this. The TD5 airbox appears to be a better flowing design than the Disco V8. Plus people tune Td5's for decent power so It won't be too bad.

The outlet also sits the same side as the 3.9 Plenum. I had an AFR tube to fit and this is how I did it.

Reasonably tidy and it sits in the bonnet recess with about an inch of clearance. Eventually I would like a stainless pipe made up however this will suffice.

If I need more flow then Allisport do make a Td5 Airbox. 

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You need to trim the clips off the TD5 Airbox.

The acute bend is crated by using a 180 silicon bend and chopping it. Then support the join by putting an ali joiner in it. Clamp it together with a HD clamp.

Not been used in anger but its not fallen apart

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The Intake for the TD5 airbox points down at the Bell housing and the wing intake interferes with the RH exhaust and manifold. 

The intake can be rotated. I'm still working on wether to feed it into the wing intake or stick a snorkel on it. Whatever route I end up. I'd like to utilise the water drainage flap in the system.

Work in progress this one

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Posted (edited)

All that's needed now is a bit of wiring and some fuel pipe connections.

It had been such a long time since the pump went in I'd forgotten which line was flow and return.

 

I grabbed the original megasquirt loom and just bodged it on with twisted wires and some electrical block connectors. I found an oddity of plug leads and this happened when I turned the key.

Excuse the ugly bloke

https://youtu.be/xMlljvORv9g

 

Edited by keeley75

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Sounds very smooth 👍🏻

And did I spy a bonnet ? Has the bodywork come on a bit more?

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Yes the TD5 bonnet was in better condition than the original steel framed Land Rover 90 version.

It was handy to check for clearance etc.

 

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So although the MegaSquirt was running it was a wiring tradegy.

The auto Gearbox had a wiring loom which contained. The Start inhibit system, Reverse Lights, Diff lock light and  Speed transducer.

Most fitments for megasquirt use a separate relay for the fuel pump etc.

The TD5 wiring which I had, has a Starter relay, Main Relay and  fuel pump relay.

This is controlled or earthed by this the Lucas 10AS alarm system. There is loads of stuff on the internet about it and I managed to find out the one I picked up by chance would control central locking and internal lighting. As well as an external battery powered siren. Without a working one of these you will struggle. If you want to keep it as factory as possible.

What I wanted to do was use the current relays and TD5 circuits and plug the MegaSquirt into it.

There are a few companies on the internet and. I sent mine off for programming and Fob coding

 

 

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The TD5 has a body loom and an engine ECU loom.

 

They both plug into the ECU under the drivers seat.The red plug is the engine loom and is the one that always tracks oil.

 

The black one is the body loom.

The ECU takes info from the 10AS unit (it simply provides an earth to the ECU). The  ECU responds to this by providing Earth to an output wire in the black plug. This then earths the main relay which then earths the start relay and fuel pump so will function as required

The ECU although initially complicated is really simple. It sits between the engine and the body and is allowed to function by the 10AS unit. It then acts as a go between the engine and body sending the clocks voltages or earthing warning lights.

Thats as simple as I can get it.

  

 

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Posted (edited)

Then you need to find this plug on the TD5 wiring loom.

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Edited by keeley75

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You need to find the wire that sends the earth from the 10 AS unit.

You then need to find the main relay wire and the fuel and starter wire all located here.

 

I'm not going any further with colours and which one to connect. As this will allow the function of most Td5's out there which is why we all need extra security.

 

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You can then plug it into the TD5 wiring harness without hacking into the original wiring. You then solder a wire onto the appropriate pins and shrink tube it.

I have as yet not trimmed off the unused pins as there are loads. I'm not sure if I will need any of the others until I'm finished. I don't want to just leave them un tethered incase it shorts a circuit etc.

Ultimately I could solder it onto a board, mount it in a box with exit tails. Maybe someone else....

 

This has turned into a MegaSquirt into TD5 thread.

 

My goal with this is to make the MegaSquirt engine management plug and play into the Td5.

So if I wanted I could just unplug my mods and plug a Td5 loom and engine in and off we go...........

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I touched on the Gearbox Wiring. Good old Land Rover. Provide a junction in the form of a large Econoseal plug. Careful here as the colour codings from the gearbox end change

colour as they exit the plug. I can only assume the wiring for the gearbox is region specific or market led. The USA versions had a shift interlock and the UK market doesn't.

I managed to fry about 3 foot of wiring here as I hadn't realised.

The main mass of wiring is the Td5 loom unwrapped as I needed to run some wires along it (bit different to my Series 3)

The wiring in convoluted tubing is the gearbox plug and the strands to the right is the beginning of a new MegaSquirt loom.

The Start inhibit switch from memory is the two yellow wires. Its simply a continuity to earth. I managed to send 12V down it and boom smoke,  aargh.

You must connect this circuit otherwise you can start the car in Drive or Reverse or in any gear of your choosing. Its simply wired in conjunction with the starter relay circuit.

IMG_7596.thumb.JPG.86ed783f3797649de4fece2731cbd7ed.JPG

 

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Reverse light switch and Diff lock warning light just wire into the Sumitomo Plugs as previously mentioned

 

The beauty of having the plugs and terminals is it looks neat and original.

 

 

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Speedo Transducer.

The V8 Disco uses the version on the right and is a 2 wire unit.

The Td5/Defender uses the same plugs but requires another wire.

I can't take credit for this as I found out all I needed to know here:

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/

The third wire was fed into the Td5 loom. Then connected into the speedo signal wire. Again Bulkhead multi plug. You then have to swap the wires in the back of the speedo head.

Normally the ECU would intercept the road speed as it uses it for TC and ABS plus others then send up to the speedo which is why you need to rewire the speedo.

 

Just follow the details in the link and all becomes clear

 

The Td5 transducer required filing down to fit in the speedo drive housing.

 

Now, I may of made a boob here. As I may need to swap the cog for a different ratio to sort out my road speed. If it's a defender version I need. My fear is I've unnecessarily filed down the  plastic drive shaft.

Time and a road test will tell.

 

Anyhow with the engine running and the Gbox topped up with fluid. The speedo clocks speed and adds mileage..

I sent the speedo of and had it Zero'd 

 

 

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What then follows is months of wiring avoidance.

Thankfully I decided to trial fit the rear Tub and seat box so the wiring could be run to its final location.

Some artist had performed a Fuel pump replacement in the tub previously. I think tools of choice were Tin openers and a Felling Axes.

The individual had gone in through the floor and left a right mess.

 

 

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The floor was weak and butchered.

YRM supplied the Galvanised floor struts and panel.

It all went together with the use of SikaFlex 221and is incredibly rigid and solid.

The domed rivets were replaced with M4 Stainless Domed Headed screws and Nylocs. Everything else was pop riveted where appropriate or Stainless countersunk with Nylocs.

 

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Got some 2007/Puma doors with central locking and electric windows. Cripes these are heavy and expensive. The passenger side needs a new skin and a bit of work.

However they are the new Steel skins so won't suffer the electrolytic reaction that normally wrecks defender doors.

 

2007 doors plug directly into the TD5 loom and Bingo I now have a car that locks and windows that go up and down by the press of a button.

Magic.

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Posted (edited)

More wiring yawn

You can the original TD5 loom on the left and the Megasquirt and electric fan wiring on the right.

Its all in there and just needs a good tidy.

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Edited by keeley75

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