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I bet it's a damn site easier doing the screen on the table like that compared to on the car!

Where did you get the front panel sticker from? I'll need one for mine at some point :) 

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39 minutes ago, keeley75 said:

That’s an interesting recommendation. The TD5 loom is already set up with headlight relays so it would just be a bulb swap. I already have a pile of newish headlights. They just need a clean and a polish.

hmmmm maybe I’ll wait and let LED technology improve a while longer.

 

The problem for me is seller A sells their LED units for X amount. Seller B sells theirs for 3 x as much. Both units appear the same in style and manufacturing and are both DOT SAE stamped. 

The Td5 lighting relay doesn’t switch the live load for the lights - the switch still carries that (perhaps the reason they melt so often!) - the relay just switches the dim/dip circuit.

A few folk on here have set them up so that the switch just switches  relays - that take their 12v supply from the back of the alternator.  

It preserves the switch, but more importantly means that there is far less voltage drop by the time it hits the lights - it made a big difference on my Td5.

Worth considering.

 

 

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54 minutes ago, keeley75 said:

That’s an interesting recommendation. The TD5 loom is already set up with headlight relays so it would just be a bulb swap. I already have a pile of newish headlights. They just need a clean and a polish.

 

 

 

I don't know about the TD5 loom but the 300TDi loom is not up to running any headlights, the wiring isn't heavy enough

I do like your build 

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No Defender has relays that take the load off the light switch from the factory. The benefits of fitting some (either make your own or buy a ready-made loom) are two-fold: protect the switch and massively improve the light performance. If buying a loom I would recommend the Landreizger as being far superior to the Boomslang.

With some form of relayed supply and decent light units/bulbs you will get 90% of the benefits of LEDs at 10% of the price. And you can still drive in snow :lol:

As an aside, most ‘cheap’ LED lights for Land Rovers that you see online are not approved and are illegal. For example DOT/SAE is an American designation and of no relevant to UK roads. 

The legal ones are the JW Speaker, Trucklite etc. which are generally very expensive. And look awful - but that’s just my opinion!

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The other thing to bear in mind about LEDs is being a harsher white light they are typically horrendous in fog. Particularly as high up as Defender headlights sit.

There's a reason why Land Rover stuck with halogens for the fog lights on the L322. 

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41 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

If buying a loom I would recommend the Landreizger as being far superior to the Boomslang.

I have the Landreizger - it’s excellent!

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The 1999 version of the wiring diagram definitely  shows the switch running through the relay E,  Working in conjunction with the dim dip relay. Everything else ie side and tail lights run through the switch which is why the switches seem to suffer. Even worse if you have a trailer with extra load running off the rear lighting circuit. 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Wiring has been the chore of this build......

So I started with the tub and after resitting the body mounts back on the rear chassis and screwing it all down the cage can finally be fitted in its permanent position.

 

Third use for my right angles drill 

F148738E-7DFA-4DDB-9337-2E0E630DDF67.thumb.jpeg.d309c408cbdf073140e7116cbc386ca8.jpeg

all the sealed rivets got dunked in wax oil before squeeze...

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Rear stainless door strip in with back door and another badge from Ashcrofts

167CB124-37DB-46AC-A040-3CD4424F64BA.jpeg

79AC8EF3-F326-419B-AE1D-19EA20A07032.jpeg

Wax liberally coated between the rear tub mounts and the body. Once it sets I’ll polish it out 

Edited by keeley75

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3 hours ago, Anderzander said:

My recommendation would not be LED - it would be the addition of a loom and relay to take 12v direct to halogens, with nightbreaker bulbs. 

This seems a good suggestion. As I have a few sets of genuine Land Rover headlights.  just need a quick polish. I need new securing rings though. 

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42 minutes ago, keeley75 said:

The 1999 version of the wiring diagram definitely  shows the switch running through the relay E,  Working in conjunction with the dim dip relay. Everything else ie side and tail lights run through the switch which is why the switches seem to suffer.

It’s on the same side of the relay though isn’t it - it’s the main current running through the switch to the lamp E-B-L&M.

Paint looks lovely !

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The headlamp relay just serves to cut the headlights with the ignition off. It doesn’t remove the load from the switch. 

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12 hours ago, keeley75 said:

This seems a good suggestion. As I have a few sets of genuine Land Rover headlights.  just need a quick polish. I need new securing rings though. 

This is how I did mine.Note the main feed id from the starter motor terminal basically a feed from alternator

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/landytown/headlight-wiring-a-better-way-to-get-light-t7578.html

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Cheers guys. I will for the time use the genuine loom and look to upgrade the loom when i settle on anything other than standard lights.

i will for now fit LED sides and indicators and standard headlights with upgraded bulbs as suggested. 

So i got outside and managed the rear roll cage everything dropped into place and I am glad I test fitted before painting as it all fell into place.

Rear wheel carrier on as well. Starting to come together quickly.FE98FE40-CA41-4C5E-9FCE-80EF1C9CD792.thumb.jpeg.171bb5dca3bd80440df8319bfcd1df30.jpeg 

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Seatbelts I mentioned the problems I’d created myself.

Without thinking I fitted the corner anker point at the bottom of the seat box then discovered. That the TD5 seatbelts fit slightly differently. They have the anker point and inertia all on the same bracket and mount on the two body studs behind the seats.E4BB912E-E86B-419D-8A0A-C1D8C8E2949C.jpeg.c18beef10050cc76069ac34e9b81031c.jpeg  

I found some 110 front seat belts and got an early defender bracket and got it all to fit. The 110 reels just need flipping otherwise they prodrude into the back of the seat and you can’t move it back. By flipping it I mean unroll the belt hold the spindle and push the belt out twist it 180 and resit it. You can remove the peg but I feared my fat fingers would slip and the inertia would go bananas as it slipped out of my digitsABA2D44B-905E-4E0A-AA64-3D32F00B3F57.thumb.jpeg.bcfb979bc16268c5316a1b1b4e640909.jpeg

EAA07EC0-49B8-4BAD-84D0-1C022CAFE8B0.jpeg

Edited by keeley75

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Windscreen next. I had to pop off the top of the dash to refit the screen washer jet. I ended up pulling the radio out and drilling an access hole so I could replace the washer jet through the radio aperture.

Prior to the screen seal going in I ran a bead of wax oil in the top of the bulkhead. The panel is just two sheets folded over and spot welded together. 

My theory is the waxoil will seep/creep into the panels and prevent  rust. The rest of the bulkhead got  Dinitrol injected wherever I could get the lance. I’ll see how much oozes out during the summer and I’ll prob give it another dose.428A1CC9-AA95-4021-B3E1-BBC60A96C338.thumb.jpeg.8c528c0019288cd841cb7147f4c34211.jpegE8755DB7-B3E7-40AD-9F11-2F64F90E82F2.thumb.jpeg.b93775047de1b88325fce2fe19e17a36.jpegCC916122-11A8-4FE8-B1EF-02656318252E.thumb.jpeg.62783579cc33c28c92f70a6344f261fb.jpeg19E7CD34-5B54-429F-8B7D-CBC1230790C2.thumb.jpeg.f2fbdd2878a1d99bc069298cbdc43934.jpeg

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