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I couldn’t resist fitting the rear arches and I am very pleased with the Santorini Black. The pics don’t do it justice it really pops out in the Light.B8FB4FB8-6A97-4EC9-92B9-0B290F775884.thumb.jpeg.12777181679de2485f6c35d6d6174fe6.jpeg

I also finished the rear wheel carrier. As mentioned it’s a Wolf variant and designed for a steel wheel. I did some measuring and reckoned I needed about 30mm to get a standard LR Alloy onto the carrier.

I got a single 30mm wheel spacer from a company called bulldog and three LR spacers

Pt no KTD500100

65303BF5-4077-4BBD-9FCF-FC147802253F.thumb.jpeg.e160a41806b3af936ca320ac5e954ab3.jpeg

 

Fits perfectly

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Plus it clears the rear quarter. I may just be able to squeeze a 255 85r16 on the carrier if I need to

51AC6EEC-7D3A-422F-90F0-45744CF09C9B.thumb.jpeg.8fd1e5f9faf761e32156c10e986c8cfb.jpeg

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The finish is fabulous isn’t it.

What springs are you running?  I do t remember reading that - bu5 I’m curious because it seems to be sitting very high. Are you over a 2” lift?

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I fitted the same setup that I had on my V8 90 however the V890 had 255 85R16 Muds so the tyres filled the arches considerably.

OME2761 Front 

Spring Type - Front

Load - 50kg

Lift Height - Up to 40mm

Spring Rate - 35 N/mm (200 lbf/in)

Free Height - 400mm

OME2764 Rear

Spring Type - Rear

Load - Medium

Lift Height - Up to 40mm

Spring Rate - 39 N/mm (220 lbf/in)

Free Height - 430mm

 

The front end is going to get the Husky H10 sat on my bench and a Winch bumper. That should settle the front. The 761 springs are also designed for the much heavier Tdi engine so my uneducated guess was 761's would be enough considering a lighter engine and then the winch.

 

The rear i have mentioned is sitting high. I need to get it finished and a full tank of fuel and then have a serious look at it. I may need a lighter rate at the rear. At the time of purchase these were the lightest rear springs OME did and were listed as a Medium load. Their range has increased since.

 

I want the suspension to be taught  and compliant. I'm trying to steer clear of fitting anti roll bars. Which are all ready to be fitted.

 

 

 

 

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I’m up to date now..

So today I fitted the Wipac Led light conversion kit in the rear. Most of the connectors were like this so I had some new ones and crimped them on.498FECA5-D19A-440E-BEED-C2EB6D17462F.thumb.jpeg.e3ef82738591f4ecfedffe067efa3edb.jpeg

look smart C42A30BB-7D7A-42CE-9AA6-21C769B5FF74.thumb.jpeg.d81c6f8ded044599cb2fa82051c041e8.jpeg

whilst I was working this turned up..

D3389168-C86F-4D5E-BD4B-0DE14D70593A.thumb.jpeg.f10d7a97feedc44cf23c7cdc9d94d9f2.jpeg46FAB1AD-4357-41A9-8D70-078A6A85DC15.thumb.jpeg.fbf9e7e9bc25d81ccb6c013a74b33f8d.jpeg

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It would be rude not to trial fit the hood.

I still want to make a seal between the rail and the windscreen. Plus the cage needs fully tightening once the front wings and front hoop are in. But for now I wanted to try it out.

The Rail here is fitted with pop rivets and you just need to ensure its central.IMG_2384.thumb.jpg.767a0c9b3ef489abc693884676db1d78.jpg

The hood is mainly self explanatory except where the padded velcro goes. I have 2 and the instructions only mention the one on the middle bar. I will drop them an email.

IMG_2390.thumb.jpg.81c76dbbce959f5749ed4f05df057805.jpg

IMG_2392.thumb.jpg.ef3f7b46560846fa87902414051bc8cc.jpgIMG_2387.thumb.jpg.084aa444533ce4766bfd08857fc1bc8e.jpg

 

Close up of the internal to external flap. This panel is velcro and stud. The rear section is zipped.

IMG_2388.thumb.jpg.ea9ccbd8a868a982c2310588a2ad169f.jpg

Edited by keeley75

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It was worth the wait.

Initial impressions. Its very black inside.

Tomorrow I'm aiming to get the front end on and start the endless door adjustment shenanigans !!!!!!!!!!!!

That's of course as long as the bottom water hose has eventually sealed up. I'm on my second bottom hose. The original one wouldn't seal especially on the alisport outlet. I have fitted a better quality Bearmach version and even used some heavy duty Mikalor stainless clamps. But to no avail. I have now removed the mikalor's and gone to genuine Jubilee clips and doubled them up on the bottom hose. When the engine is warm it doesn't leak, When it cools down it drips every so slightly. It may need a few heat cold cycles and a tweak tighten when the hoses are soft. However it's really annoying.

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That’s one big back window !! 

Exciting stuff.

We are probably at similar points in our builds - I’ve the front end on, but the interior isn’t there and I’m just about to order a hood.

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10 hours ago, keeley75 said:

That's of course as long as the bottom water hose has eventually sealed up. I'm on my second bottom hose. The original one wouldn't seal especially on the alisport outlet. I have fitted a better quality Bearmach version and even used some heavy duty Mikalor stainless clamps. But to no avail. I have now removed the mikalor's and gone to genuine Jubilee clips and doubled them up on the bottom hose. When the engine is warm it doesn't leak, When it cools down it drips every so slightly. It may need a few heat cold cycles and a tweak tighten when the hoses are soft. However it's really annoying.

Does the Alisport radiator have a bevel running around the edge. If so I'd make sure that your clips / clamps are not resting on that.

I had some Mikalor style clamps when I got my replacement turbo hoses from DPH Motorsports on eBay and they've been superb - slowly replacing all the appropriate jubilee clamps with those. Surprised you're getting leakage, implies something's not sitting right or the hose is perhaps too large a diameter?

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Thanks for all your praise. I’m on the home straight. the dining room is looking a little clearer and I only have a couple of bits left to buy thankfully.

 

Here’s the culprit.FCF3212D-70BC-4A84-B7B7-B78D80AAA9DA.thumb.jpeg.487e2f87b835cfc409028b75e5971b3f.jpeg

It does have a flared end and this is what I’ve ended up doing. I’ve warmed it up and tightened it a couple of times. It doesn’t leak when it’s warm it only seems to do it when it’s stone cold.  

We shall see the Jubilee clips appear to grip tighter or more uniformly on this joint. ho him it’s always the simple things.

I can honestly say that this was not easy. Fitting these on your own is a challenge.

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Wife quote  “ It’s got eyes”

The front hoop took some getting on. I had to pull it back about 2 inches and used a ratchet strap anchored to the rear cage.

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I’ve also realised you can’t get the bonnet on in the normal fashion with the bulkhead bar in place. An added bonus with the bonnet theft that’s common.

 

Theft hmm that’s a worry.....

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That hood just looks great :)

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14 hours ago, keeley75 said:

I’ve also realised you can’t get the bonnet on in the normal fashion with the bulkhead bar in place. An added bonus with the bonnet theft that’s common.

 

Theft hmm that’s a worry.....

I could get mine off with the Safety Devices cage? It was close, but doable.

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So today I trial fitted the doors.

It looks like the Cage and wings have supported the bulkhead sufficiently.

I have also been very lucky the doors fit a treat and the gaps are very good. The top of the windscreen passenger side is clear but a little close. I need to see if the gutter rail will hold it with a bit more adjustment.2F459C42-15BC-4C54-9DBA-7597D5E65366.thumb.jpeg.ebfcb18894b074cfad2c05d8cbc018d0.jpeg5347B4C1-6E48-4930-90EB-C978D5F3A613.thumb.jpeg.97d6f1d1c1106f6b2a1a57340261afb0.jpeg

Regarding stainless steel door screws.302F5747-5F70-4978-A9F0-D9B2128FCB4A.thumb.jpeg.9d1658151ccbd0162a2b976183d1f1e7.jpeg

Left is a YRM stainless screw perfect match for the later genuine Td5 screws

Middle is a DLS screw notice the turned down edge

Right is a  Britpart supplied version

The YRM ones are the best and the easiest to torque up without damaging the heads.

Also the screws dig into the paint. I ran waxoil in here to try and slow down the rust bleed that occurs.

0DC48553-DD25-409B-B42A-D58A9C5ADEF6.thumb.jpeg.72a39b5fc479a1a92163b1f8f59c0262.jpeg

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I’ve upgraded the bottom seal to the latest version. Prior to paint I drilled the holes out ready for these

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On 1/21/2019 at 10:34 PM, Retroanaconda said:

The headlamp relay just serves to cut the headlights with the ignition off. It doesn’t remove the load from the switch. 

Just to revisit this. I bow to your knowledge. It indeed stops the headlights from functioning when ignition is off.

 

Just thought.

This has been the single best bit of equipment for tracing and testing during this build.

PowerProbe III

A914CD73-693F-4D9F-BA86-BBE454D8DD3C.thumb.jpeg.257f299905f4e760db45ca3372e1067b.jpeg

 It registers earth and power audibly and visually.

You can also send 12v down the tip to activate relays bulbs etc. It’s been so much easier to use than a multimeter. Invaluable...

my second most useful tool

F02ADC9C-F852-4BA7-9F77-28AC39A3C354.thumb.jpeg.c416bbaa07f93b2eab2a0fbc5457d8a0.jpeg

When your working on your own and reaching all over the place trying to hold a spanner and turn a bolt with only 1 degree of movement....

iI thought it to be gimmicky but honestly wouldn’t be without one now..

Edited by keeley75

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13 hours ago, keeley75 said:

Just to revisit this. I bow to your knowledge. It indeed stops the headlights from functioning when ignition is off.

 

Just thought.

This has been the single best bit of equipment for tracing and testing during this build.

PowerProbe III

A914CD73-693F-4D9F-BA86-BBE454D8DD3C.thumb.jpeg.257f299905f4e760db45ca3372e1067b.jpeg

 It registers earth and power audibly and visually.

You can also send 12v down the tip to activate relays bulbs etc. It’s been so much easier to use than a multimeter. Invaluable...

my second most useful tool

F02ADC9C-F852-4BA7-9F77-28AC39A3C354.thumb.jpeg.c416bbaa07f93b2eab2a0fbc5457d8a0.jpeg

When your working on your own and reaching all over the place trying to hold a spanner and turn a bolt with only 1 degree of movement....

iI thought it to be gimmicky but honestly wouldn’t be without one now..

What I find even more useful than a powerprobe.... is a mate with one.... who is sh!thot at electrics and doesn't like to be beaten :lol: 

Also love the Milwaulkee ratchet. Having seen Al use one on the Skid Factory on Youtube I want one. Annoyingly though all my tools are Dewalt, and they don't make an equivalent sadly :(.

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Make the jump anything Milwaukee make is brilliant.

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@landroversforever, have you considered 3d printing a battery adapter? There's a M18 to Ryobi adapter on thingiverse which could probably be adapted.

I second muddys comment though. I got into them after experiencing their big 1000 lbft impact, but now have a lot of different tools. Get a decent socket on something and its unlikely its not going to come off. Hasn't failed me yet, only one it thought about was a seized crank pulley but a decent socket and that came off easily enough.

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On 1/31/2019 at 10:35 AM, landroversforever said:

What I find even more useful than a powerprobe.... is a mate with one.... who is sh!thot at electrics and doesn't like to be beaten :lol: 

Also love the Milwaulkee ratchet. Having seen Al use one on the Skid Factory on Youtube I want one. Annoyingly though all my tools are Dewalt, and they don't make an equivalent sadly :(.

Skid factory......awesome Mighty car Mods awesome.. I am amazed at what people are building in their sheds. This project is a nut and bolt job. The stuff people are doing with access to CNC and Tigs is amazing.........

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Spent the evening building up both doors. Realy Boring and tedious.....

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Then fitted these excellent gaskets from YRM to the bonnet hinges. Fitted the rest of the parts to the bonnet ready for tomorrow.B6D86F6A-30BF-4454-BDB2-C99284778ED9.thumb.jpeg.bac26408862be9b3b0152109bb647a78.jpeg

DB6F3FB4-E7F6-4577-8F81-F13EF12B5926.thumb.jpeg.f10e702d36b4aa6e04dbc3e62ca695d4.jpeg

 

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Had a good day today... 

Fought with the door alignment. The passenger door could do with a little bit more lifting at the back but I’m all out of movement. I’m talking mm here but I’ll see what I can do. I may try and slacken off the tub mounting and see if I can get a bit of drop from it. The doors are tight though and the rubbers need to settle down.

Front end went on well. 

I’m having issues with the 10AS alarm. I think one of the door lock actuators needs replacing.

When you lock the doors and the alarm sets. It immediately unlocks and the alarm goes off.

Looking at the forums this symptom appears to be a weak actuator.

I can’t fit the door trims until I have a fiddle. It was locking and unlocking all afternoon without issue..98AC179A-B6A6-4B9E-A2DF-5C87D7CE12AA.thumb.jpeg.34fcae3b0c805348641b977ea972aa8a.jpeg

Edited by keeley75

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Really, really Nice !!!!!!

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Very neat job you are doing here. For the rear springs, I would suggest fitting range rover police springs, colour code red and white. They are slightly longer than standard and have a rate of 170 lbs/inch. This is what I run in the back. I am pretty sure the fronts I have are the OME 2764 springs you have at the rear (220lbs/inch). Those I would suggest running on the front as the winch will weigh it down quite a bit. This will mimic the 60/40 weight ratio very well and run it very well balanced.

For theft, the Xeng steering lock is good.

 

Daan

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