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It's looking beautiful.  What is the name of the blue paint?  I remember liking Oslo blue, but I think yours is just a bit darker.

I've heard good things about the X-Eng steering lock protector too.  I rather fancy their pedal cover, but apparently it won't fit Series models (not sure why).  It might be useful for yours, though, as they're reputed to be very hard to get past.

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Hi It’s Oxford Blue Micatallic LRC 602

The problem with the paint it’s taken the limelight away from the mechanical work.

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I’ve been mucking around for ages trying to sort out the radiator top mounts.

I got some of these and discovered they were too high. The V8 rad by allisport is not as high as the TD5.

 

9801B5C4-416D-4BD1-ABA5-1F1EA6A23611.jpeg.e9a1aca61a1642bbd554634bf85fc8ac.jpeg

 

I also wanted to use the bonnet prop just like the Defender TD5.

I ended up combining the two. The LH 4cyl rad mount requires the bonnet scissor prop bracket cutting off. The TD5 bonnet prop plates also require the angled brackets cutting off. These are the ones that hold either the intercooler or AC rad.. 8ED43F36-6386-47D1-AB7C-8FAACF50E8A7.thumb.jpeg.0e749f636d850d9e8412d83deb62b3de.jpeg

Works fine and looks as original as I can get it.

 

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Going to measure the 68 plate Defender at work tomorrow and see how much higher this sits.

F1741E4D-1803-4895-AA43-F0D83F286B82.thumb.jpeg.8b47372c7a6c597e37368d65b8930620.jpeg

To be honest once the winch is dropped on the front I reckon it’s not too bad at all.

Front a little high.

1C905750-E75D-4B8F-BCDA-17F95C00FBDF.thumb.jpeg.264328526995a8aac704729bf59bf483.jpeg

Rear wheel level with the spring mount.

2EBE1787-BA53-4CF3-8153-3A42C4B3AA65.thumb.jpeg.5ec96acfa3243efc7766486e22e283f4.jpeg

What doesn’t help. The front has D2 front coil spring isolators and the rear has the disco 1 version as well... I reckon the weight of the Winch bumper and Husky will settle nicely.

Front657CF49F-B310-47BD-A8BB-D3BEF627A488.thumb.jpeg.01d91364405d63a5a65858458e45a0eb.jpeg

Rear

FAA5D1BA-3F2A-4E11-93A8-6E573DC96F2B.thumb.jpeg.7f994140596c18fbaab7d1ff2792f091.jpeg

Fitting the Sills has helped make it not look too jacked up....

Still lots to do 

 

Edited by keeley75

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I did some measuring of a last of the line Defender Adventure model. It has a full roof rack and some aluminium skid plates along the chassis rails to collect mud and salt

measured from the centre cap to the edge of the eyebrow.

Front 19 inches

Rear 20 inches

This truck is 21.5 and 22 inches respectively. So I have  2 inch gain all round..

 

Edited by keeley75

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Why did you fit those coil isolators? I dont think they do much, apart from adding height.

 

Daan

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They are supposed to isolate the transmission of vibration  and noise between suspension and the chassis. They prob do nothing on this vehicle and I can’t do a side by side comparison. Or a before and after...  

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I managed to sit down and read this thread. My apols for the grammar and spelling. I’ve tapped this out in my phone and not paid much attention to autocorrect........

So I managed an hour on the truck today.

As I mentioned the central locking was playing up. When you lock the vehicle via the fob the doors would immediately unlock after the three flashes. The alarm would then sound. 

This has been diagnosed as door lock actuators. I fitted a new pair. Shown below is the part numbers and the actuator.

Left is passenger, right is drivers.

Pleased to say the locking is now perfect. The new actuators are really quiet and don’t grind like the originals. 

DA90CCD6-B8A1-4016-98F6-29C07FE1AB6E.jpeg

83E1E710-6FA8-43AC-BC30-A05BFD81ACD3.jpeg

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That, Sir, looks AWESOME !

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Thanks, many thanks

Just waiting for a bumper and the DVLA to make a decision and it’s MOT time .. oh and fit the interior light. Set the tracking. Sort out the intake to the air box and fiddle with the Megasquirt settings....

I fitted some door trims. These are copies of Puma trims. I got them from SP Land Rover parts and are very good quality. They are plastic though and don’t have that normal LR feel.

The clips are a different design and they don’t have a rubber strip that runs along the top of the  window. The clips break easily and are generally a good fit. The passenger side is bulging away from the door lock and pulling the clips out of the door. I’ve  taped it tight and left the heater on to see if it will settle down after a while. EFA3D03C-45AF-4231-B4A3-2723BBF663B4.thumb.jpeg.b2751c6c28cbcb23b849e448fb0b0548.jpeg04405D94-1FE6-491A-AA10-C5D011070D9E.thumb.jpeg.860e67cd93644bda139fd74f4fd16bea.jpeg

The holes are all in right place and I purchased a 3 mm trim and tuck it to the window edge

EFE1DD86-0030-4F25-A336-FE7F09815E63.thumb.jpeg.06abb183c6791a0c53746bae3ffe27ec.jpegDCAACFC5-EA77-432B-98B5-8E58635374E7.thumb.jpeg.c219427056855a5ed8fe9a65978f0f41.jpeg

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Looks great , I’m sure Rob would be proud , a great tribute to a lost friend , well done mate 👍🏻

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Thanks for your support. I will send this thread to his brother when I’m done...

I bought some of these.FE9DB833-BB51-4E24-B8E9-1B87E65CA1B7.thumb.jpeg.d350cd73cb446449f25d1aedcbc6b393.jpeg

They are length 20mm x dia 18mm with 8mm hole.

I took out the drivers seat to fit a new heated seat element and thought there must be a better spacer available. I had used an M12 nut temporarily to take up the distance between the seat mounting and the Wright off road mat. These took 48hrs and are made to order. Princely sum of £13 inc delivery.

5F7AA592-4D70-4820-B2BA-551A713D28EC.thumb.jpeg.1da3419c858207352b47586af27bc91e.jpeg

 

 

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Fitted some rear Mud speaker pods today. I used the aux power plug and stuck a 12v marine plug in the rear. It’s all ready for some speakers.

The Exmoor trim hood requires a couple of brackets fitting to the rear capping. The tension strap normally hooks under the capping

F15CB040-0741-403F-B97A-3AA4ACD6F950.thumb.jpeg.f9a42cb6550d941e806d49a4177c3f7e.jpeg

Nice and neat

93F6C3B4-101B-40AA-8138-C151A7AEF6D3.thumb.jpeg.722086be761bbac64d9bdaf610df2563.jpeg950841A5-9CF0-43EE-96DB-7041A3EB2AF9.thumb.jpeg.01cd3d8f36896a93f767e1a74c43fc3c.jpeg

Next bit of Mud kit is one of their lights. I made a bracket that sandwiches between the screen and the rear view mirror bracket. Very pleased with this.535C9C62-50CC-4419-B611-AC8157579637.thumb.jpeg.5e2cb00d94292ea7269d9f5ff9d84870.jpegF77FBFDD-BA36-48F4-BABE-C3900D0E931B.thumb.jpeg.2adf2f2b41b95a0169cb601c2b1c74f6.jpeg

wired it into the standard Td5 loom it works perfectly with the door switches and alarm.

Edited by keeley75

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Door trims are doing this.

Any ideas apart from ‘No nails’ and ‘go buy genuine’

F4CA391B-E1D3-447A-9989-A4B4D4A0A859.thumb.jpeg.3d752dfe8f4961e4f3c108a8b234bebc.jpeg

Its not scratches, it’s the Duck Tape

10225CCA-EA8F-4EC1-8041-3FEEAAB1EB83.thumb.jpeg.bfd620ccce41c63c4b6e9d52def6c8ad.jpeg

Edited by keeley75

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Are they genuine fasteners?

There doesn’t look much grip to be had there?

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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

Are they genuine fasteners?

There doesn’t look much grip to be had there?

Hmm. No you are right there is not much length to these.

These are MWC1474

images.jpeg.c54269ed9243248f1ab6c961c67d9d04.jpeg

I need some longer ones. Or I may need to shave the door edge a few mm to get it to grip.

 

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Looks like the door card needs trimming just above the waistline to allow it to sit back properly.

Mike

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10 hours ago, miketomcat said:

Looks like the door card needs trimming just above the waistline to allow it to sit back properly.

Mike

Aaah. fresh eyes. Yes I reckon that will do it.

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10 hours ago, Soren Frimodt said:

This beast looks soo good! I wouldn't mind driving that everyday, even though its a coiler ;) Top job Sir 👍

Thanks

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More snagging jobs.

Fresh air ducting to the air box. I wanted the system to utilise the same water drainage system as the Td5. Although I have a snorkel stashed away. The likelihood of requiring this has minimised dramatically. It’s just too much tubing on the front of the A pillar. 

I had already turned the Td5 air box input round as it clashes with the RH exhaust manifold.

032401B2-66A3-4692-B575-21A1178E4664.thumb.jpeg.b3e55deaa4ff94e5df8135fedd730c92.jpeg

I chopped this up and got it to sit here

CBDF7A80-200E-45D5-81A4-A53BDC2A125F.thumb.jpeg.9973af6ccfba03bdb398d25acdd94328.jpeg

Attached a length of pipe and up and on to the air box. All looking original and no where near the manifold. It’s tight to the steering UJ although there is a gap.

BD2CFBF6-28A0-45A4-BBDA-B2A40A83EBD1.thumb.jpeg.556e9e332360c3e0a792768d5b8cd2fa.jpeg

6F9098B4-7283-444B-A747-FF205E08FDCA.thumb.jpeg.704cddee1eaa9e63052cf09ac3f318ec.jpeg

Edited by keeley75

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I’ve mentioned it here before. I wasn’t sure if you needed the Td5 ECU connected to communicate with the 10AS module. I can now confirm if you plug your Nanocom into the original OBD  port, which for me is in the depths of the auto console. You can communicate with the 10AS alarm unit without it present.. I’ve just managed to get it to auto lock if you don’t open the door..

4DAC2949-7BA3-40E0-9348-E897BFB1495F.thumb.jpeg.a7338c28608a62ae1d148e7bf2dadeac.jpeg

Edited by keeley75
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The front bumper arrived today. Easy fitment with no fettling and was supplied by Terrafirma.

8F166FB1-7144-445C-BF3F-7902F6AC442C.thumb.jpeg.8a20fedfa9f477e1e3b349a4bd6ecfd4.jpeg

My old Landy had one supplied by David Bowyer and needed drilling and filing. But it was from memory a bit sturdier than this one. Time will tell. The finish is very good though.. 

03DD1165-969C-4C54-9579-A7C7A6B008C2.thumb.jpeg.6151eeb21f2c34e84302d9dbc17caa71.jpeg

50F1FE80-B20F-44DC-BB63-2BDDE15F6739.thumb.jpeg.e60ecc5d0152cf51e7b28d1352028735.jpeg

Wiring was already in place and is controlled from a cut out switch fitted in the passenger seat box.

Edited by keeley75
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