keeley75 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 MPG.......... I drove a Trailer to Dorset this summer and it rained all week............ However it delivered 15mpg. Which even though the tuning is still work in progress was a result . Its performed a lot of towing duties and its does it easily. Not as easily as the 110 TD5 with a Map. It just needs a few more revs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Okay so it all seems like I got everything right. Well I didn't ............. The vehicle for any sort of use is terrible. I'd totally missed one major and obvious requirement. CUP HOLDERS The NAS console is a copy the US version. Below is a genuine version and it has two cup holders in the Passenger footwell. The Ashcroft Console has two cup holders apparently. Ahhhhh here they are. Unfortunately I'd left the rear bulkhead in so you can't use them. Plus I'd be reaching behind myself for coffee... I will admit I toyed with loads of options and even decided to live with it and just buy a sealed cup. However a can of Coke on a hot day sealed the fate that I really needed some. I looked at all the options and ended up going the Genuine Parts route.. Expensive and rare but Discovery 2 cup holders were required in Black. Its taken nearly 6 months of searching (at the right price) to find a new set. Spent days toying with where to put them everywhere is a compromise and in some places they stop the diff lock from engaging or jam your forearm when using the handbrake. So they ended up next to the shifter. I'm not allowed to get fatter or my leg won't fit but I'm happy, very happy with the results and they look like they should be.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 One thing that I have to rethink though is the o2 Sensor. 2000 miles and its dead. I've just discovered its f++ck@d after the AFR readings were mental when driving, either constantly in the red or not registering. I took it out and calibrated it, the LED of death on the Innovate controller displays 8 red flashes (Sensor Timing error (typically a damaged sensor) I have recently had a bit of a tidy up and found the original packaging the Innovate came in. In the box was a wide band bung. During the exhaust fitting I welded in a bung I had in the workshop. Guess what its about half the length of the supplied unit. The Bung I have welded in means the sensor is well in the firing line of gas as its screws in too far. It should sit thus So job next weekend. Take off the Y piece buy a new sensor, weld 1" bung in and hope it lasts longer.. Oh and buy some more gas for the welder...... I'm hoping this works as the Bosch sensors are not cheap. I've played with my timing settings and now the tuning is out. I've retarded the timing and now it revs without that initial hole but fueling is out............ More to do... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 So this is why I think the O2 sensor is not lasting long. Its inserted too far............. I took off the Y piece and welded in the innovate bung supplied with the LC2 Kit. As you can see now out of the way. let's see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 You have created an awesome 90 ! Very, very nice. The Mrs. mentioned she 'd like hers finished to that standard.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 On 1/18/2020 at 5:34 PM, Arjan said: You have created an awesome 90 ! Very, very nice. The Mrs. mentioned she 'd like hers finished to that standard.... Many thanks appreciate the compliments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 (edited) So a friend of mine was offered an old Landy. It’s been sat in the back of a garden in pieces for some years. Due to a turn of events I now have another project in the shape of a 1981 series 3 2.25 petrol. This isn’t quiet the Series 2 or Range Rover Classic that was planned. Why oh why can’t I say No......... Here is the planned end result. Hmm 7 years from now. Edited January 19, 2020 by keeley75 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 You’d better post up a build thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 Series are hard to resist..... Bon Courage ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 30, 2020 Author Share Posted January 30, 2020 On 1/19/2020 at 6:43 PM, landroversforever said: You’d better post up a build thread! For your insomnia... enjoy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 Time to sort out all those bits that have cropped up. 1. Wide band has packed up again..........😖 2. The top and bottom hoses won’t seal up when engine is cold. 3. Fit the narrowband like I said over a year ago. 4. Remove centre silence box for more V8 noise. Er performance economy..😆 Lets start with point 4 then.. ‘The car has a TD5 system fitted from the Y piece back. It makes sense then that the centre box removal pipe for the TD5 90 should fit. I got a stainless one and it appears well made. It’s a Britpart unit. They only issue was the hangers were a bit odd and needed some heat and positioning straight. Easy to install and lined up perfectly..... so what does it sound like. Vid 1 centre box fitted Vid 2 removal pipe in Vid 3 bit of revving Done... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 that sounds fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 O2 sensor... I think I’ve gone through two in 2.5k. That can’t be right. Here was my first guess at what is wrong. On 1/18/2020 at 4:28 PM, keeley75 said: So this is why I think the O2 sensor is not lasting long. Its inserted too far............. I took off the Y piece and welded in the innovate bung supplied with the LC2 Kit. As you can see now out of the way. let's see. the replacement has been in since Feb and has died already.. Current thought then. Use the wideband only when tuning and run with a narrowband fitted permanently. Nigel sent me a 4 wire narrowband sensor and I ordered yet another Bosch wideband sensor. When I wired the car I put the wideband wiring on a 4 way econoseal plug. All I needed to do was make an extension wire for the narrowband sensor, unplug the wideband and plug in the narrowband. The LC2 only has three wires. So I added an earth into the unused terminal of the loom and bolted it to the earth point of the seat box. Yellow circle LC2 wideband controller Red circle straight to 4 wire Lambda sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) It’s talking to tuner studio but I need to read more and check I’ve edited the settings to show it a different sensor. However the change in exhaust makes the car hunt slightly and I need to work out how tunerstudio displays the sensors readings. I need to put the LC2 back with a working sensor and check the fuelling for the new exhaust setup. Any tips and tricks for ensuring the correct settings for TS. ??? Edited April 18, 2020 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 43 minutes ago, landroversforever said: that sounds fantastic. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) Oh another job, headlight wiring upgrade to reduce the current and subsequent breakdown of the lighting switch. I ordered a loom from here. https://shop.landreiziger.nl/ I could of made one up. However by the time I’d bought all the parts from Polevolt it made more sense just to buy the kit. The kit arrived very quickly and is very well made. I did add a few more bits of conduit to it but prob unnecessary. Mounted the relays behind the PAS reservoir. The rest is just plug and play. To separate the sidelights from the headlights I jumped the really. But then ordered the correct ROW unit. Yes OCD as it’s just a wire in a box. Prior to upgrade the Headlamp voltages were 12.67v at the plug after 14.4v at plug. Powered straight from the alternator and relieving the switch. Job done. Edited April 19, 2020 by keeley75 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) Next job, Water/coolant leaks Ever since this this was built I’ve never really solved the persistent drip from the water pump and bottom radiator hose. The car is fitted with an Allisport radiator. The silicon top hose seals fine and doesn’t leak. The bottom hose is rubber, I cant get one in silicon. When the vehicle is warm or hot the rubber seals fine. When it’s cold it drips. When it’s cold you can tighten the hose clamp a bit more and it seals. Drive repeat, drive repeat. You can see the deformed hose here where it’s been constantly tightened. the Hose itself needs about an inch chopped off at each end to fit. Hose clamp wise. I have used genuine Jubilee and Mikalor heavy duty clamps with no luck.Even doubled up on the bottom radiator hose. Some internet searching has brought me onto a clamp called a Constant Tension clamp. Basically it has the ability to keep consistent tension when the item it’s clamping cools. There are several designs and manufacturers. There are the sprung type which are normal on most modern cars and the screw type. Mikalor ones cost over £10 each. I found a very similar product here. https://www.pneumaticsdirect.co.uk/categories/section-13-clamps-clips/c-cure-clips-and-clamps/constant-tension-clamps-c-cure/304-stainless-steel-158mm-band-width Very well made free next day delivery. Here you can see the differences. Lets see if it works.... . CT clamp > Mikalor > Jubilee Edited April 19, 2020 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Once you start poking stuff you find more to do. The Throttle Position Sensor although appearing to work fine has always required constant calibration. The upper and lower limits kept changing significantly. Lucas replacements are unavailable. So as suggested in this forum I got one of the TPS kits. I got one from here as it was the cheapest online. https://www.actproducts.co.uk/product/sp002-rover-v8-throttle-pot-upgrade-kit/ You get a sheet of paper and the bits.. Well made and easy to assemble. Unscrew original TPS. I left the gasket in place. Attach spindle and bearing assembly plate to inlet manifold using the countersunk screws. Slide on Colvern TPS ensuring there is some resistance to the fitment. Screw on cover plate ensuring not to over tighten screws. Into Tunerstudio and Calibrate TPS. Finished. The Colvern TPS has the following wiring. Earth - Black 5v - Blue TPS Signal - Red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Exhaust again. The intermediate pipe although sounding awesome was a bit much. Under load the resonance was a jarring, it needed a bit more thought. Allisport make this....... How much??**!! A quick hunt on Jetex’s website I bought a 2.5” silencer called Handy.. I reckon it would fit the straight part of the intermediate pipe. Bit of measuring and chopping.. Some welding I started with the Tig and two things. I’m still not a Tig welder and I ran out of gas. So the mig finished off the mess I’d started. Sound wise. Sorted... the silencer has removed the harsh resonating tone and kept everything deep and subtle. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 (edited) Steering Box again. The box is superb and steers brilliantly with no play. It was out of the donor Disco and didn't have a difficult life. If you've read this far you'll know I tried to put Zeus seals in it and couldn't get the input seal to make contact on the housing. Zeus were contacted and the best answer they had was try another steering box. The Genuine seal kit I fitted started to leak again. I revisited the Zeus kit. When I originally fitted the bottom seal the outer O-ring tore itself against the housing which was the final straw for this kit. I measured the rings and ordered new. for reference they are inner 2.5x31.5mm outer 2.5x40mm. Thankfully having the right tools meant the drop arm was off and the leaky seals were quickly out. Here you can see the Zeus seal inserted and circlip in place. Note how it sits higher up on the shaft and seals in a different place. 24hrs on and its still dry.... I give it 2 weeks .................... Edited May 27, 2020 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 So the Zeus kit is good and it was difficulty in the first installation that was the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 3 hours ago, Snagger said: So the Zeus kit is good and it was difficulty in the first installation that was the problem? The Zeus kit is a well thought out bit of kit. However............ When I first fitted it to the input shaft. The Zeus seal outer O-ring is smaller that the internal diameter of the casing. It doesn't seal within the casing. Now it may be designed to seal against the bottom edge or face if you like but no amount of calls or emails to Zeus got an answer. Other than try it in other box which kinda defeated the object. When I originally fitted the lower seal pushing it in sheared the edge of the O-ring taking the sealing edge away. Which is why I quietly drew my breath and placed it all on the shelf for another day... Today the box has the Zeus lower/output seal successfully fitted. The only difference I can see in fitting this time. The box was bleeding ATF everywhere. Last time I smeared ATF. Maybe huge amounts of 'Lube' is the key for the lower seal. As I said we shall see how long it lasts. so far so good........... As an after thought. I still think the Zeus kit is a good way to go if you have a good box and it works for you. Its under £25 and might just save the day.. After you've wrestled the drop arm off. £25 is a lot better than a dodgy recon boxes.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 Old Bit New Bit Absolutely brilliant. Hopefully no more getting snagged on the entry............ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Much better, ... I put a pair on my old 110, (shoulda kept it!) saved most of the grief👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 Next niggle to deal with was the fuel Gauge. The Fuel Pump and sender fitted in the TD5 tank is ESR3926 which is D1 V8 or 90 2.8 BMW. It worked fine with the standard TD5 fuel gauge. However suffered the usual optimistic reading all TD5's have A factory TD5 shows full for over 150 miles and then plummets. The combination of ESR3926 and the TD5 gauge did exactly the same with other issues.. Roughly Half a tank of fuel showed 3/4 on the gauge and the fuel light came on when there was between 5-8 litres in the tank even though the gauge suggests a bit more. Which in the V8 gives a reserve of imminent death... I wanted a more accurate reading from the fuel gauge. I had purchased matching VDO fuel gauges to go with the Rev and Temp gauges but the two VDO sell were worse than the genuine TD5 gauge. I dug them out of the spares box and decided to get them to work. VDO Gauge 1 which is VDO Pt No 301 010 002 has a Range of 3-180 ohm. Basically its just shows full all the time when plugged in to the car. This gauge is easily availible and works well with the matching VDO sender. The other option is VDO 301 105 which is 33-240 ohm. This is closer to the original gauge in terms of resistance. However with ESR 3926 fitted it will not show full when 60L of fuel is in the tank. VDO Uk don't stock it and it took 4 months for me to get it from them. However auction sites sell them for £30 with shipping from the US. I found this great write up here https://sites.google.com/site/shannonpowerlab2/home/calibrating-your-fuel-gauge Purchased one of these. from RS components. You can buy much cheaper versions but this is waterproof and has very good resolution in comparision. I stuck some tails on it. Then wired it between the Sender wire and earth behind the clocks. Twisted the potentiometer just enough to get a full reading. and taped it safely onto the gauge cluster connector block. Spent yesterday filling, draining and measuring fuel. 5-10L fuel shows below empty with the fuel light on. I say 5-10 as the fuel light is a bit hit and miss and sometimes you have to rock the car to get it to light up. 30L fuel shows just above half and 60L is now full. So I achieved a more linear gauge and another day of fiddling. Hope the above may help others. It will certainly help me when I forgot what i did a few years down the line. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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