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On 6/15/2020 at 8:41 PM, keeley75 said:

Due to getting well and truly lost down a rabbit hole. I’m sorting out some bits. I won’t bore you all but I’m fiddling with one of the gearbox cooler pipes and a bloody drip from the bottom radiator hose.

As the coolant is out. I treated it to one of these.

A11BDA42-757E-4578-94DE-2DD94F54E1BC.jpeg.13ad0e2dd29b767c62fb8d8a8aed9b6b.jpeg

Sight glass and level sensor. Some nice Tig work here..

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I opted for the unit with a level sensor.

the sensor is simply one of these

D32EFCE6-3A86-4A04-909A-3DE7D63C1032.thumb.jpeg.8d5dd39bab359915410a5f29264c9829.jpeg

As I don’t have a TD5 engine but TD5 everything else then I decided to wire it into the Diesel water trap warning light. Thinking this would be simply a case of finding the orange and green wire In the loom.....several hours later I discovered that the wire is buried behind the dash and not in the loom that exits the bulkhead. It sits in its own econoseal plug I assumed that the bulkhead multiplug would route it to the tank loom. (mine is a Td4). After much head scratching and testing I discovered that there is zero wiring in the dash 16way plug for the Warning light.

Thanks to Retroanaconda again.

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/

I got the correct terminals from RS components fitted one end to terminal 4 of the 16way dash plug and earthed the other end. So I can remove the header tank . I split the wire and put a 2 terminal econoseal plug in the engine bay.

So if I lose some coolant it now does this.

 

361AEABA-48C1-478E-A562-32A1252B7BBF.jpeg.2b2228f26f79747c204c481c84686a76.jpeg

 

I used the same warning light for my coolant level sensor too. 

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1 hour ago, keeley75 said:

I do wonder if I will actually notice the difference between it and the Td5 setup. I’ve been following yours closely as it’s very similar build.  Thanks For the compliment...

I read your thread start to finish after I posted. While incredibly similar in a number of ways, the quality of what you've done is what I wish mine was. I'm not even jealous, I just want to start again. It's an absolute credit to you and an awesome tribute to your friend.

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Fresh air intake finished off today.

I used the standard wing vent and grafted the water drain Valve from the td5 air box. It’s connected to some pipe. A 75mm flange was mounted in the back and connected to the hose.

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I originally bought some spiral bound silicon hose. But I was very difficult to route. Some heat resistant pvc pipe was much much cheaper and easy to route.

 

18B45DB1-148A-4061-826E-896C7549EC0D.jpeg.5902caeb19e72236d2a07c3d356f54bf.jpeg

You’d never know !!!

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Page 3 of this build shows my initial investigations into Defender V8 automatic gearbox oil cooler pipes.

I had a pipe made up by Pirtek. It worked but it was in the way of the winch bumper mounting bolts. Whilst the rad was off for repair it got a revisit.

So as far as I can work out from the parts manuals and the collection of pipes I have You have 2 options. Depending on the use of the radiator cooler and remote cooler.

50th Anniversary. Cooler as manufactured by Allisport.
Auto box to remote oil cooler ESR4219 OS

Auto box to remote oil cooler ESR4218 NS

##### Does not go into 2nd oil cooler in radiator or have box oil temp wanting light sender #####

like this

00CA0F54-7568-49C6-A6C5-E9594E77CE8E.jpeg.343a394732f2cc71341263a37cc4f5ea.jpeg

 

The NAS Auto Gbox cooler set up has the remote cooler mounted up higher than the 50th. The cooler pipes run in between the chassis cross member and the radiator. Theoretically you could buy the pipes here then mount the cooler higher up.

image.png.c508dcdd3dae9714001f698ee046f131.png

So if like me you use the 50th remote cooler and try and plumb it in using the factory mountings you are going to be short of 1 pipe rad to cooler.

So to plumb in an Allisport V8 radiator with dual oil coolers and a 50th remote cooler you need.

ESR 4219. Box to remote cooler.

UBP 101030 Box to rad cooler it has the temp warning switch in it

Then you’re left with a pipe that LR don’t make.

scouring the parts manuals I found ESR 1242. It looked promising. But alas no chance......

So ESR 1242 got adapted.

C260B009-4418-46F8-B6D7-18298085E51B.jpeg.d5d93fa41f25b15546ddf81d275c7991.jpeg

AN -8 hardline fittings used

 

B1985258-D575-4C22-B4A2-1E38DAD06EA7.jpeg.9482aad9ad5b4c2a5616ea365915ecaf.jpeg

Routing is much better and nearly factory.

E6AC5BE2-FBE8-4380-9FFD-A30939478A9F.jpeg.613b7161f01b506d5e19f8cd8a3e027f.jpeg
 

Another AN fitting and flexible pipe.

26D9A81C-400B-4B77-A931-06BFF0510AC9.jpeg.0c36326e6ec77ef25f3977efd53a9010.jpeg

578FD533-2AD2-447C-A058-F0FFF1DA7585.jpeg.9ecd84d6667176156ff007d26a8eced6.jpeg

9E3DA67D-B917-44C5-8021-AFF15BBFF08E.jpeg.0dfd899dd614a14a578c9d4eb95cd79b.jpeg

 

Much better. If I was doing this again. I would get all the rads made with welded on AN fittings and things would be really simple as the Fittings used by LR are impossible to buy as they are rolled onto pipe.

Hope some of the part numbers help....

 

 

 

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  • 7 months later...

Finally I've sorted out the final piece of the puzzle.

 

NAS rear step. There are lots and lots of NAS steps out there. Some with checker plate some with universal fitting kits and questionable quality.

 

I managed to source a OEM NAS step with the correct 90 fitting kit.

 

Quality is superb with the correct rubber step that collect water, traps it and rusts out the step..........

p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5

 

The bracing is inch bar and the fitting kit is very good quality.

I used to have one of these. Dixon Bate Adjustable hitches so it was just a matter of undoing a few bolts.

AEAE91EF-C92F-48D1-9A1C-6AF40C3C22BD.jpeg.c5cf57519dbb394e4e8ff0cdd8c4de03.jpeg

 

The NAS step went on with a little persuasion from a ratchet strap. The three threaded holes under the chassis were a bit tight to get in.

However I am very pleased with the end look/result.

p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5

 

 

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In relation to this post.. There is no way that the M16 thread in the Richards chassis would get to the specified 240nm of torque. But its tight enough judging by the flexing of the breaker bar and my muscles.

The Brink Tow ball drops the ball enough without excessive metalwork to get the height in the ball park.

https://brink.eu/en-gb/towbars/towbar-types/flange-ball-towbar/

 

Oh and the Alisport Rad has sprung a leak again........... same issue as before. the rad leaks where the cooling capillary enters the side tank. Apparently this can be quite common as the aluminum expands and contracts quickly causing any weakness to fail. 

Andrew has been brilliant and is sending out yet another replacement. .................

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

The pattern door panels although looking okay have never been a great fit. They are a hard plastic and you notice it. As you are basically part of the door when driving. The panels also drum a little with noise. They also sit low and rub against the Wright matting. I bit the bullet and ordered genuine door cards.

Just for information. The door fittings Are called SNAPSAC’s .

45221375-62BE-423D-AA0D-1610D398BD98.thumb.jpeg.f7e6f036fb69f21d5c00ee48a72aeada.jpeg

There are various qualities around. The white ones are easy to fit and come in a blue packet with Br*tp@rt packaging. Steer clear. They do not grab the male insert adequately. The ones you want are the beige coloured versions same as factory. They are harder to fit but are a harder plastic gripping and locating the male insert better.

New water shedders fitted at the same time

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The fit and finish is spot one. As usual Genuine parts win again.

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vs

703ABD48-87AB-4147-889B-44B985E923C8.jpeg.d75d284b7103661f31849dfc4290d8f3.jpeg

The genuine cards do not drum and rattle like the pattern version. They are also soft to the touch. When you shut the door it “Sounds like a Golf” kinda....

Edited by keeley75
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Allisport sent out a replacement rad for my leaking one.

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So far so good. The only difference between old and new. They have moved to the fan switch to the near side. Which meant a bit of wiring.

The old one shows damage where I’ve been constantly tightening the jubilee clips to get them to seal. This time I gave it the lightest of tightens and so far so good. 

8CB6AAFE-9461-437A-B49C-A600350E14F7.thumb.jpeg.8f50ce9c0ed551eb8010c73745995276.jpeg

fan switch part number for anyone interested

DE2D4B3E-F28A-4F8E-8AFE-1E1F0265247F.thumb.jpeg.a3582817712cbd686037e180a893d73e.jpeg
 

 

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I'm going to have all the same problems with door cars, I have Bearmach ones and they look good but I also noticed the snapac stud things don't grip too well into the female inserts. I'm going to put some sound deadening into the cards if I get the drumming you've had, but fully expecting to have to go genuine after looking at this.

Where you did buy your water shedders? Everywhere was out of stock when I looked, and there are some smaller internal ones that are pure unobtainium now. Cut-up heavy duty waste sacks it might have to be.

Last question - when you built your doors up, did you have to screw in the plastic spacers and the window channels? SP-4x4 said they didn't need it when I enquired, but I can't see how that is the case when Genuine and Bearmach do.

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I wonder if a quick wrap in electrical tape will make the patter snapsacs work properly.  I’m not surprised the Britpart lot are useless, but it’s still disappointing - I keep hearing from a few sources that the current manager is aware of the issues and sorting out the quality, but that doesn’t match the evidence on here or the BritRest and comparable videos.

I’d be interested to see how you get on with the window channels.  I think I will have to replace the channels on mine as the windows have become very stiff while the vehicle has been in storage, so feed back on quality would be useful. I plan to secure the new channels with a little silicone or RTV in key places to avoid piercing the rubber a

20 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:

I'm going to have all the same problems with door cars, I have Bearmach ones and they look good but I also noticed the snapac stud things don't grip too well into the female inserts. I'm going to put some sound deadening into the cards if I get the drumming you've had, but fully expecting to have to go genuine after looking at this.

Where you did buy your water shedders? Everywhere was out of stock when I looked, and there are some smaller internal ones that are pure unobtainium now. Cut-up heavy duty waste sacks it might have to be.

Last question - when you built your doors up, did you have to screw in the plastic spacers and the window channels? SP-4x4 said they didn't need it when I enquired, but I can't see how that is the case when Genuine and Bearmach do.

nd rusting the steel insert.  A big dollop of grease or wax on the bottom ends will hopefully stop rusting from there.

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Posted (edited)

Good idea the sound deadening...

The pattern door card fittings are different from the LR ones. The fir free fittings for the pattern door cards are very easily broken. Plus they can snap the door card mounting. I got some of these and it helped when adapting the door card to fit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Land-Rover-Discovery-Plastic-Clips-for-Rear-Door-Trim-Panel-Door-Card-Stud-/371405332791?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
 

Water shedders £10 from here

https://www.lrparts.net/ejd500620-right-hand-front-inner-door-shedder-for-land-rover-defender-fits-from-2002-onwards.html

 

The  window channel when screwed into the frame  goes through the plastic channel and clamps it all together. Clamp is a loose term to stop it all falling apart..

Edited by keeley75
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  • 3 weeks later...

I’m not a fan of chequer plate. However the wing tops always feel a bit weak and appear a bit vulnerable.

Best of the bunch in my opinion and as close to OEM is Mammouth. The kit comes with all fittings and you can order the foam backing to stop water collecting between the wing and the plate.FD741E82-5B68-4857-88BA-FF177B6EC75B.thumb.jpeg.6c97829065879fb12ee5e9a79c5c9ee2.jpeg

4A998C4F-9ADB-4B9B-98D0-BDB2811522DC.thumb.jpeg.549d4762eef865a24e6e3c022061b980.jpeg

 

The camera lies. You can’t see the foam when looking at the vehicle.

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Excellent fit and quality fittings. You can’t really see it but the wing tops are bent in two planes to ensure perfect fitment. I’m slowly accepting it’s existence.

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When I put the vehicle back together I’d omitted to pay any attention to the wipers and wheel boxes. They got a bit of fresh grease and screwed back together.

The wipers were sweeping all over the place and parked in various positions. They moved in the wind and reacted to bumpy roads........

The wheel boxes suffer in 2 ways. The gear wears out on the drive cable increasing the play. Also the spindle slowly corrodes itself to the housing. This ageing produces a nice brown grinding paste that speeds up the wear and tear.

I ordered a pair of these. From www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk

and a washer jet...

 

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All the items are CNC machined and then anodised.

 

The wheel boxes have a composite bearing and a sintered bronze bearing with a perforated surface.. so they are self lubricating. They are magnificent. A true work of art.

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I paired these with a new drive cable. Fitting them was simple but an absolute pain. The later style dash needs to be basically disassembled.

Results... the yellow paper shows the extent of free play prior to fitment 120mm. The small line shows the free play after 15mm. 
3B4E7A59-B015-4ADD-B211-B4D95C867877.thumb.jpeg.e1098f4672338bd79a03b082967da4da.jpeg

The washer jet also by Design and Performance again is a direct replacement. 
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Stunning build quality. The jets appear to be only adjustable in one plane ie fore and aft. Or high or low on the screen. The spray angle appears set and is spot on.

Total overkill.......... but much better than it was before. The plastic unit required the jets adjusting periodically.

 

9FD68559-7F42-4836-AF46-A4D7DC3E5FA5.jpeg

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14 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

*cough* £249 *cough* wheelboxes *cough*

@FridgeFreezer, you could be right, but lovely things that should last. 

It's strong money but if they make the wipers less comedic there's plenty worse ways to spend £250 on a Defender.

The RDX front end, for example, is not my thing at all. Very neat job overall though.

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