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Robs 90 called Billy


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Don't forget that the ZF is only four speed and that the torque converter helps with the low speed stuff.  It'd be a mistake to lower the diffs or LT230 much lower than the 50th unless fitting very big tyres or only ever driving very slow roads and lanes.

 

Any plan to fit the Ashcroft centre diff ATB too?  That'd be the ultimate "near-stock" transmission. 

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Some months later I went to Nigel's workshop and collected some diff jewellery.. and some super magnetic plugs.

What had just been released but not yet available was Nigel's Super Pinion Flanges.

2 were now on order.

After 10 mins with Nigel talking about Diffs and Megasquirt I reckoned I'd done alright here.....

 

However a passing comment about CV joints and half shafts sent me away doubting whether the standard stuff was good enough to insert into his diffs.

 

 

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Next job.

Fit the TD5 Bulkhead and see if this lot will actually fit together and what clearance issues there are.

This initially got fitted and I the decided it had to come back off and get washed.

I then painted the lower surfaces and exposed parts with some of Buzz welds paint.

As you can see the Td5 bulkhead sits well and the engine looks at home

 

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So some of the TD5 connector plugs got damaged by the breakers.

I eventually tracked them down as Sumitomo HW Sealed plugs.

 

However only certain sizes are available in the UK from specialists.I needed the 14 way versions

I found a supplier in Japan called Eastern Beaver who shipped the sizes required.

https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SMHW/smhw.html

My plan was to make the whole thing plug and play just like LR did. So using factory connectors into the TD5 bulkhead loom. When you open the bonnet it had to look factory

 

I needed matching plugs to feed things like water temp, reverse lights, diff lock etc etc.

 

I ordered them and they turned up within the week I ordered male and female in various sizes so I could replace the damaged plugs and then connect into them.

 

You do need a proper crimp tool though like this its the same version for econoseal plugs as used in the TD5 lights

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by keeley75
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Sod it, Ashcroft HD Front shafts and CV's

Eventually when this thing is done, and has hopefully run about for a while. The HP22 will get upgraded with stronger internals. The Transfer box as suggested will get an ATB. The engine will go large....  So I may as well do the groundwork now.

So Front and rear diffs are Pegged, HD Crown and Pinions HD shafts and upgraded CV's fitted

I Rebuilt the swivels which were mint and I fitted this rubber swivel gaiter thing.

Jury is still out on whether it will just trap mud and water or do it any good

 

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Edited by keeley75
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Thats also the last outing for my axle stand. Now fit for scrap.

So after some years. I have a rolling chassis.

The next plan for attack is, Exhaust, fuel, wiring for the engine and cooling.

I want to get it running with no bodywork on. It makes life easier to run stuff like fuel lines and check for leaks etc. As you've noticed I don't have a fully equipped garage and the ability to work from the top of the car is preferable.

The next bit might get slightly out of order as my memory is jogged by the pictures.

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I'll deal with exhaust first.

The donor v8 defender had a tubular setup and ended up in a side exit system.

 

I wanted the exhaust to look and run as much as standard as possible. My ultimate goal is to make parts ordering as straightforward as possible.

The tubular manifolds were really tight against the chassis rails and the Y pipe was clashing with the sump on the Auto Gbox.

So they went in the bin and I put on the standard cast manifolds.

They looked really untidy even after wire brushing.I found this product and its excellent. If you can apply it and then cook it off it really resists rusting.

You put it on with an old toothbrush or rag. Its a bit like boot polish. If you treat it the same ie don't put too much on your brush and brush it in thoroughly its works really well and tidies up the manifold tremendously.  

 

 

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I got a TD5 90 Centre box and tail pipe in stainless steel.

As the back end is standard TD5 then things like mud flaps and tow hitches would all remain standard. I discovered that the flange for the centre box sits remarkably close to where the Y piece looks like it should go. Confirmed by this forum you can get some standard LR downpipes and Y piece and it all bolts together.

I do have the part numbers if anyone needs them. I can tell you however that the downpipes are. Range Rover Saudi Spec Non Cat 4.2 downpipes with Y pipe. You can fit earlier 3.5 EFI range rover ones but the bore is quite small and The Saudi ones are something like £60 for the downpipes and the Y piece.

 

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The J exhaust hanger is unobtainable by LR. No on seems to have them except YRM who had a Galvanised one on the shelf.

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Edited by keeley75
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Richards supplied me with one of these for the chassis and it doesn't work with standard V8 downpipes

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I'd kept the one from TKUT and it needed some bits adding to match up with the bolt pattern in the chassis. It got painted and filled with Wax

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Edited by keeley75
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