keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Electric fans. Allisport supplied their fan with a dual Temp switch for the fans. I can't remember specs for the temps. I had the option of the lower temp running the first fan and then the higher temp kicking in the second. Or http://chromatex.me/electric-fan-wiring-diagram.html/prime-2-speed-cooling-fan-wiring-diagram-automotive-electric-fans-lovely/ You need three relays but both fans run at half speed and then full speed depending on which sensor has activated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) Just been sent these by the owner of the Hoist, Chris. Rob filling up his disco (again). I will admit this TD5 was far better than his V8 D2. Old times, Billy sat at the top of a big hill filled with gallons of water for a water slide. Edited January 4, 2019 by keeley75 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Nothing ever goes right first time, I forgot to put a rivet into the chassis to secure the clamp for the power steering hoses. Two choices here. 1. Take out engine 2. Buy a 90 degree drill and chop up a drill bit Went for No 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Next job is to build the body up and check everything lines up. Them doors goodness they are heavy. When hung on the bulkhead they tip the top of the bulkhead back which in turn lowers the door alignment. The truck cab sorts this out and combined with the screen holds the bulkhead square. The addition of the front wing and mud shield all combine to keeping the bulkhead in place. Going Soft top was going to need some thinking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) Rear tailgate swing out carrier next. As mentioned I wanted the North American Specification look Side hinged with a wheel carrier and the carrier had to open with the tailgate. I didn't want a system where I'd be releasing a wheel carrier and then the tailgate. I also wanted it to lock via a key and operate a door switch. Oh and it also had to look like the NAS version as I don't like the safari half door conversions being offered. Craddock's and Rimmer's list the NAS Tailgate at around £1000, gulp nope Edited January 4, 2019 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 The MOD have recently released some swing out wheel carriers made by Mantec they are designed to fit a side hinged tailgate. There are two variants of this around the plunger either has a flat plate for safari door or the platformed version for Wolf tailgates. Currently due to the glut of these on the market they are relatively cheap. I got the Wolf version. They do however have a drawback. They are designed for wolf wheels ie steel wheels. As this pic shows you need some adaptors to cope with the offset of alloys. My current plan is to stick an alloy hub spacer on mine. and then bolt the spare to the spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 So I fitted the carrier which is a nut and bolt job and only requires a couple of holes drilling in the tub capping. It's really well made with top quality fixings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) Although the red tailgate was useable It was easier and quicker to just get a drop down and convert it Its always fun opening a box with this label. Bit like Christmas crackers. The contents are either going in the bin or going to surprise you. Thankfully this tailgate was is very good for the money. Edited January 4, 2019 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) So here is how I did it. 1. Strip of all the drop down brackets etc 2, Get two rear door hinges and use the holes that original held the top cable bracket and lower tailgate hinge 3. Find someone to hold it in place so you can mark the holes in the rear tub for the hinges. You also need new rear corner capping as the drop down ones have holes for the anti loose. 4. Drill four holes for the plunger mount. Note it sits off set. You need to set the carrier up. Pop the plunger with the threaded end into the carrier and close it up. It will dictate where the four holes need to be drilled. 5. Admire Edited January 4, 2019 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) Door handle next. I did try and fit a Puma version but it would end up butchering the door too much and I'd loose the simplicity of the conversion. The benefit of the Puma lock would be commonality of keys. I had to go with the early lock with one of those silly little keys. oh well. I also considered how to centrally lock it and again unless I was using a half cut door would not look too smart. So I am trying to achieve this as you can see the lock sits quite low and below the high level brake light. I downloaded a lot of these pics and ended up measuring where I thought the handle should be. Left is the Puma door handle and right the early version, The right version is what LR used. I made a small template and a couple of hole saws Edited January 4, 2019 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Fit catch inside and admire. I have checked for clearance and fully open it just takes a 235 85r16 even though it was designed for 7.50x16's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Not quite done yet. 2 extra things. The holes in the frame for the hinges, It's just box section ali and if you over tighten the hinge bolts it will crush the frame. I elected to low temp ali weld some tubes into the frames. The second problem with this design of tailgate. It's simply two plates riveted together. Over time the rivets loosen and the tailgate twists and flexes and goes out of shape. I fixed this by drilling out the rivets and bonding the frame to the skin with Sikaflex 221.The aliweld isn't great but the hinges will hide it. The tailgate is now solid and no longer twisting when you slam the tailgate shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Great work chap! Good to see all the detail going into it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 On 1/5/2019 at 12:26 AM, landroversforever said: Great work chap! Good to see all the detail going into it I've been distracted reading your Build Thread. Very Very impressed an awesome project... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Right, back on track ish The body now fitted and lined up as best as possible. It was looking a bit tatty underneath so I removed the lot and stone chipped the whole pf the underside. I used Upol stone chip. Its easy to use and gives a great finish. The front mountings needed a repair in the usual spot. However it was in very good condition compared to some. The rear of the tub required captive mounting plates riveting to the back panel. When I order the chassis I did specify a TD5 rear body mounting but this gots missed in translation and they built mine with a classic rear mounting. Only time will tell how its stands up to the pressure washer and stones being pinged at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Point to note here is the fuel tank vent tubes all got replaced as the standard ones crack and you end up seeping fluid out of the cracks. I got some silicon ones which should last a bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 The mud shield were galvanised. I had bought a TD4 front wing and it had been provided with a plastic mud shield. I toyed with putting plastic versions in. However the V8 does run hot under bonnets so I elected to stick with the steel versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) Seat box and floor panels. I'm not intending in putting carpets in this as they just hold water and smell. Our CSW always had a funny pong in it during the winter months and every spring it needed drying out.... I do intend to put a Wright Off road Rubber Moulded Matting set in to reduce road drone..... (So I can hear the canvas banging against hood sticks clearly). So I ended up using Raptor. It came out really well. and I was very impressed with its coverage and ease of use. I do wonder if Raptor will be the new chequer plate. Everyone will hate it in a few years. However it has smartened up the cab dramatically and the Rear Tub will, get the same treatment eventually. Neoprene gasket used between all panels. Edited January 6, 2019 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) I was really lucky with my seat/battery box it needed no replacement panels and you can see the small repair sandwich made on each side to the front body mountings. Edited January 6, 2019 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) Floor panels in. Again using Neoprene gaskets. You can see the R380 Tunnel working with the D1 Hi/Lo lever Edited January 6, 2019 by keeley75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Without thinking too hard about It I stuck in the lower Seatbelt mounting bracket and this will cause me some issues later on when trying to get seatbelts to suit. You'd think that would be the easy bit to track down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Next Job, Wiring whoopee. However as I had now sorted everything its just a process of routing and clipping and fitting grommets. The ECU is now in its permanent home. I'm determined not to drown it, It could go in a box but for now its neat and tidy. Just a little bit or wiring left to tidy up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Its funny, now I look at the picture its the factory wiring thats not neat. You can also make out the TD5 ECU plugged into the megasquirt wiring and the Innovate Wideband. All the fuses in the TD5 fusebox distribute power just as the factory designed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 ALR 7259 NAS Side hinged tailgate Britcar Price £898.17 Plus VAT. Britpart tailgate £135 delivered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeley75 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Ashcroft care Package. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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