roamingyak Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 I've just had all four axle ends pulled out and inspected, new bearings put in etc. Front drivers side had a whole new Swivel housing etc I then drove 600 miles and had quite a lot of grease on the inside of the front passenger side (its a TD5 front axle). Enough to fill an expresso cup. I wiped it away, drove another 600 miles and checked again - a little blob was present in the same place. Quarter of an Expresso. Drove another 600 miles, and nothing major appeared. After sitting for a week I have some seepage as shown below. Checked that there was some grease in the swivel housing, seems ok.... but can't do easily at the moment. So which situations are most likely from your combined wisdom please? 1. Seal needs to be replaced (water, sand etc can get in easily etc). 2. Was overfilled with grease, excess is leaking out, should stop, is well sealed as pressure pushed out 3. Opposite side being replaced has caused a slight pressure imbalance somewhere 4. Something is too loose or too tight Any help suggested. As I'm preparing a run down into the Sahara for a few months I'm guessing replacing the seal is the way to go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 I'd say a new seal , the bottom left corner bout 8o'clock , the seal looks worn there as I think that's were the grease is coming from but it may just be how the photo has been taken. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 8 o'clock is where it has all come out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Thought it had , but sometimes photo's play tricks on you , the seal looks to be split there and further in on the ball . I think if you replace the seal it will be job done . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Yes, definitely a new seal is needed. The track marks left on the surface of the swivel indicate that the seal is badly worn. The swivel should be wiped clean by the seal. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 Thanks, sadly can't drive the 2,500km back to the UK to claim it under warranty ;-( Will I just need the oil seal (LR059968 (FTC3401) for a TD5 axle?) and new greasehttp://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6975/FTC3401-CHROME-BALL-SWIVEL-OIL-SEAL.html?search=FTC3401 &page=1 or more pieces from a kit like thishttp://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/40746/DA3167G-SWIVEL-HOUSING-KIT-DEFENDER-OEM-.html?search=swiv kit&page=1 (will buy genuine parts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 I’d say just the seal and some grease , but as whoever checked them missed that I’d wipe the ball and check them just to be sure . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 If you pmed the boy Ross (landroversforever) you could finish off your seal replacement with some shiny stainless steel seal retainers for not much more money 😉 Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Is the ball pitted at all? If there are some dings and bumps on it then even a new seal might not keep the grease in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 You need the seal, possibly the retainer, and you'll need the paper gasket to refit the swivel to the axle unless you use RTV sealant instead. I can't remember if the seven bolts holding the swivel have nylock nuts on the other end like Series or whether they're into tapped holes in a thicker flange, but I think it's the latter. Obviously, you'll need new nylocks or just threadlock compound respectively. I probably don't need to tell you, but a lot of people don't realise how to make refilling (especially with grease) easier - make sure to turn the steering all the way so that the swivel filler plug is not sitting over the chromed chalice but exposes the CV joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, Snagger said: I can't remember if the seven bolts holding the swivel have nylock nuts on the other end like Series or whether they're into tapped holes in a thicker flange, but I think it's the latter. Obviously, you'll need new nylocks or just threadlock compound respectively.. The axle housing is threaded. There are no nuts. You are supposed to use loctite. The important thing to note is there is one special bolt that acts as a dowel to set the angle of the swivel. Edited January 8, 2019 by Red90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 There is the cut the seal and slip it on bodge trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 44 minutes ago, cackshifter said: There is the cut the seal and slip it on bodge trick. Or pull the whole hub off, half shaft and all and replace it without cutting it or dismantling the swivel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 22 hours ago, cackshifter said: There is the cut the seal and slip it on bodge trick. Nooooo!!!!!!!!! 😬😄 It doesn't take much effort to disconnect the steering rods and brake hose, whip the complete swivel and hub off and do the job properly, but the difference in result is huge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 To be honest, whip the brake caliper off and save bleeding the brakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 Could somebody kindly advise what part numbers I need based on my axle number detailed in this thread here please? And also anything else I should get - Loctite and tools etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 An extra long 14mm ring key or combination, of a good make is a good investment. There isn't enough room to get a socket in and the bolts can be quite keen to stay put. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 2 hours ago, cackshifter said: An extra long 14mm ring key or combination, of a good make is a good investment. There isn't enough room to get a socket in and the bolts can be quite keen to stay put. Like this?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK631014-Extra-Long-Combination-Spanner/dp/B001SG22EC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 A ratcheting spanner makes life a lot easier. Download the factory parts catalog so that you can look up parts numbers yourself and also get the workshop manual, so that you know what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 48 minutes ago, roamingyak said: Like this?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK631014-Extra-Long-Combination-Spanner/dp/B001SG22EC That's the general idea - I personally like Britool, Stahlwille, Elora, Gordon. I have a Britool one which works well. I have no experience of Sealey spanners, but you do need a nice snug fit on the bolt and not something made of cheese. When your knuckles are on the line.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roamingyak Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 22 minutes ago, Red90 said: A ratcheting spanner makes life a lot easier. Download the factory parts catalog so that you can look up parts numbers yourself and also get the workshop manual, so that you know what to do. I'm trying to figure things out myself, struggling but think I have cracked it now etc, hard work! Sorry for being pedantic - it's usually a 10 day wait between ordering and receiving parts, post is expensive if I need to return items, and then its another 10 day wait again. Also, without being melodramatic my life kind of depends on getting the right part numbers. This wouldn't be a good place in 44 degree heat to be fixing an axle with the wrong parts for example 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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