Puffernutter Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 7 hours ago, Red90 said: This is why every Defender I buy, I get to spend 40 hours fixing the wiring from the previous owners. To be fair, I didn't hide it and the new owner was fully aware of the problem when I sold it! Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Maybe ask him how he fixed it ? 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 5 minutes ago, Anderzander said: Maybe ask him how he fixed it ? 😂 Maybe he didn't :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 26 minutes ago, Puffernutter said: To be fair, I didn't hide it and the new owner was fully aware of the problem when I sold it! Peter I think you have to buy any Land Rover knowing full well you are buying a 3D puzzel you can sit in and will probably never completely solve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Not done anything today in terms of problem solving. I have removed the engine wiring loom to take measurements and notes to allow me to source all of the parts to make my own new one as a warm up for a complete re-wire. The insulation and tape on the original loom are in bad shape with bits spliced in from previous owners in none standard coloured wires. I will use standard colour scheme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EeEk Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 On 1/4/2019 at 6:11 PM, monkie said: The insulation and tape on the original loom are in bad shape with bits spliced in from previous owners in none standard coloured wires. I will use standard colour scheme. Nothing like giving yourself a hard time.... The electricity doesn't care what colour the insulation is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 49 minutes ago, EeEk said: Nothing like giving yourself a hard time.... The electricity doesn't care what colour the insulation is True, but it makes later fault finding a nightmare if the circuit diagram is describing a wire that is green and blue and you can't remember what colour wires went where or worse still they are all the same colour! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 A quick update; I removed the engine wiring harness at the weekend and I have ordered the parts to make my own (£40 rather than £75), so I'll see how I get on as a practice for a full re-wire at some point this year! I have also had a dig around the wiring behind the dash panel and I have found the resistor (encapsulated in a white plastic holder) between a brown/yellow wire and a white wire (as per the circuit diagram. (see pic) I have measure 93 Ohms on this resistor - can anyone confirm if this is a correct reading or has it failed? I can't see anything printed on the side of this resistor to tell me what it should be. I also found what looks to me like a diode not connected to anything and was hanging off a black wire (presumed to be an earth) see other picture. Any ideas what this is for as I can't locate it on the circuit diagram. It says "PEKTRON A75-294" printed on the side. *EDIT* Not connected to the same cicuit, so this isn't the diode as fitted to 200Tdi and later Defenders. Also I have been sent a few diodes in the post from Puffernutter - a very big thank you for those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 That PEKTRON component has the diode symbol on the side of it, one may suggest that it is a diode 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 2 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: That PEKTRON component has the diode symbol on the side of it, one may suggest that it is a diode Glad we are in agreement Any ideas what it should be conected to? It was just hanging there off a black wire on the opposite side of the dash to the brown/yellow ignition light circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 5 minutes ago, monkie said: Glad we are in agreement Any ideas what it should be conected to? It was just hanging there off a black wire on the opposite side of the dash to the brown/yellow ignition light circuit. Found it on the diagram. A black wire with a slate trace is hard to spot, just looked black to me! Its part of the wiring for the heated rear window from the relay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Nice find, knew it would be on there somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 A Google came up with that diode on a DeLorean! It's a 1A diode same as I sent to you. The DeLorean ones are £7.50 each!!!!! Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 I saw that also. If I had a DeLorean I would go back in time to find a better price than £7.50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I still have the remains of my old dash/main loom, I'll have a look to see if I have its diodes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 A Google search has suggested that it may be 5W 100 Ohm metal film resistor. I measured 92.4 Ohm to be exact. No idea if this is near enough or if it is not working as it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I've found the old diode, Just PM address & I'll post it if you want it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 An update. I have solved the problem and fitted a new engine wiring loom that I made. The issue was with the resistor. With the resistor in place the engine continues to run with the key removed. With the resistor removed the engine stops. I can only assume the resistor is allowing too much flow back into the stop solenoid circuit from the alternator keeping the solenoid open. I have not sourced a new resistor of the correct type (I understand it to be a 5W 100 Ohm metal film resistor), but instead I have replaced the resistor with a diode. (Many thanks to both Western and Puffernutter for kindly posting me some diodes). Secondly the engine wiring loom was in bad condition. I purchased new wires of correct colour code, tape, terminals and wrap from Autosparks. I am pleased with the result which cost me half of the price for an off the shelf item. Thank you to all who gave input to this thread and help in getting this frustrating problem sorted out, once again proving what a great forum this is. Here is my DIY wiring loom I made (I cut the terminal block off the old loom and soldered it onto the new one after this picture was taken) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Crikey that was a quick loom build, although there isn't many wires in the engine loom, only reason mine got replaced during the engine build is because it was 20 odd years old & lots of cracked insulation due to the heat from engine. Done a neat job keeping it looking stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 Thank you. There weren't that many wires in the engine loom. The time consuming part was taking measurements from the old loom without getting filthy. My original one also had a lot of cracked insulation, worn out terminals and odd bits spliced in, so I thought it was time for a new one, it made it to 30 years though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 You do not want a diode where that resistor was located!! Your charge light won't work. You need to wire it in correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 This is the odd thing, I thought exactly that but it does seem to work. I think there is more none sense in the main loom. But I do want to try and source the correct resistor but I haven't found one yet. My engine starts and stops when it should and everything else appears to be working fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larna86 Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Following my last post on this and from a few other pointer, I solved it by replacing the solonoid with a genuine Bosch part. Don’t know why it works but the “stray” voltage of 2-3v doesn’t seem to be enough to hold open. Whether it means the solenoid is breaking down I don’t know, but glad it sorted. Hope you get it sorted soon 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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