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World War Willys Jeep - from 1990


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Ok, I'l bite..

I finished the mockup of the adapter plate:

I am trying to marry a VW 1.9 TDI engine to the Mahindra gearbox. It takes some doing before they say 'i do'. 

To make it as easy as possible, I started with a longitudinal mounted version of this engine, from a Passat, as this has the starter motor on the engine side, as well as more favourable engine mounts, a vacuum pump at the side of the engine, rather than at the back, and an engine mounted viscous Fan.

At the heart of this is a Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit for a 130 HP TDI. The 130 HP engine has a larger diameter clutch, and this clamps the Jeep friction plate perfectly:

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I don'e have much in the way of machining equipment, but I do have CAD. I also found a factory drawing with mounting pattern dimensions for the VW TDI, as well as a Factory drawing for the mounting pattern of the Peugeot Indenor engine that normally lives in the Mahindra. This gave me the bolt pattern for the gearbox.

On CAD, marying this up ended up looking like this:

large.IMG_7405.JPG.231c262f4a9a999e423ab5f1f898499f.JPG

The good thing is that this will be acurate by design, and Via a waterjet cutter, I can get the adaptor plate cut from CAD. 

But first the plywood adapter 

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To this can the Mahindra bell house now be fitted:

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So this is where I am now. next is dropping this lot in the chassis and see what obstacles we find next. It takes a while though..

Thanks for looking!

Daan

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Great stuff, worth waiting for!

I am pleased to see the vw engine make an appearance, I am surprised that it isn't more popular in LR's as it is so readily available, I am sure the 5 cylinder would even haul a 110 along at reasonable speed.

Where did you find the detail of the engine pattern?

Might be good to post the source on here to encourage vw thinking?

.....looking forward to the next bit.

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Just looking again at the bolting, and thinking of trouble that the BMW conversions have with the starter it might be an idea to consider studs or welding the bolts there depending on your material?

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3 hours ago, Blanco said:

Just looking again at the bolting, and thinking of trouble that the BMW conversions have with the starter it might be an idea to consider studs or welding the bolts there depending on your material?

The starter has m12 threaded holes, so for now it is easy to fit it this way. This would mean it is gearbox off to replace the starter, so needs thinking about. There are more problems though, because the starter motor does not currently engage with the starter ring. I think I need a starter motor of a 6 speed passat.

3 hours ago, lo-fi said:

Very cool. I take it you're not using a 130 engine, just the flywheel? 110hp with a mechanical pump? 

I have the ALH engine, which is with mechanical injectors, delivering 90HP. I went with this version because it is the only waste gate controlled turbo. This makes fitting a mechanical pump very easy. A 300 TDI pump will fit, and I got one out of Ed Poores pile of scrap TDi's!

Plan is to use this pump, which is set for about 110HP and a large intercooler, aiming for a smoke-free 110 HP.

4 hours ago, Blanco said:

Great stuff, worth waiting for!

I am pleased to see the vw engine make an appearance, I am surprised that it isn't more popular in LR's as it is so readily available, I am sure the 5 cylinder would even haul a 110 along at reasonable speed.

Where did you find the detail of the engine pattern?

Might be good to post the source on here to encourage vw thinking?

.....looking forward to the next bit.

I think the VW TDI is perfect for this size and weight of car. They achieve 130 HP factory, some even 150 HP, while weighing 150kg and it is a tiny engine, so fits almost anything. Also very reliable.

Compare this with a Landrover TDI, factory 110HP, weighing 275 KG.

I think the 4 cylinder VW is a bit small for a Landrover, but as you say, a  5 cylinder would be lovely.

Relevant drawing:

large.1708639453_VWpattern.png.e81a3990df9a554ed9fe66cf553113cd.png

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1 hour ago, Daan said:

 

I think the VW TDI is perfect for this size and weight of car. They achieve 130 HP factory, some even 150 HP, while weighing 150kg and it is a tiny engine, so fits almost anything. Also very reliable.

Compare this with a Landrover TDI, factory 110HP, weighing 275 KG.

I think the 4 cylinder VW is a bit small for a Landrover, but as you say, a  5 cylinder would be lovely.

Relevant drawing:

large.1708639453_VWpattern.png.e81a3990df9a554ed9fe66cf553113cd.png

Finally somone else is thinking VW, after owning my T5 I've been looking at VAGCOM and like land rovers VW had well and truly been cracked by enthusiasts there's heaps of info on the software side of getting them going.

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Ah of course. The 110hp is VNT.... I had one for years, cranked 200,000 miles out of it myself on top of the 190,000 it had on the clock when I bought it and spent almost nothing on it. Fantastic engines, but agreed they'd be under powered in a landy. Though every diesel landy the factory turned out is under powered IMHO... 

I'll be looking forward to updates :)

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  • 2 months later...

A bit of progress to report on the jeep, I am now mocking up the front end:

large.IMG_7641.JPG.212bb759541e7e6e44bdb5ded62e46e9.JPG

 

The engine is a reasonable fit, it clears the bulkhead, apart from a preheating unit which sits on the back of the head and has a water pipe coming out of it. This can be replaced by a VW t-piece doing the same thing. Hopefully this will fit, otherwise a bit of fab work might be needed. The oil filter clashes with the LH chassis rail, this has been replaced with a VR6 oil filter, which is about 30 mm shorter, and fits.

More serious issues arrive when you look at the accessory drive:

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The alternator has been swung round about 45 degrees to clear the chassis, which involve cutting off 1 bolt mount; so a bit of work to make the location work with 1 bolt currently held by a large sized sky hook....

Worse is still to come, as the PAS pump and its mounting had to be cut off from the engine completely. This will move to the other side of the engine, and driven by the second (currently unused) pouly on the crank.

Speaking of PAS, I dropped the steering box and front axle in to see how this will work with the engine:

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It will go I think, just a clash with the drop arm at full lock, which I can solve with doing a Y tie rod conversion. As you can see, RHD is not easy with the diff and the box occupying roughly the same space. It took me a while to find a PAS box that will work in this application, but a LHD Rangerover P38 box you see here is the one to have I reckon.

large.IMG_7638.JPG.d908140f1d52d2e6ea70408df1c5fdbb.JPG

So, here is where I am now. Things are going to be on hold for a while, as I am going to get my Landrover MOT ready. We need a 3rd car that works in my family, as My daily was out of action for a while due to a engine management issue and I had to use the bosses car. 

Thanks for reading,

Daan

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Goede Avond Daan,

Quite some progress and the problems seem "sortable" - esp. knowing your skills !

Repositioning the alternator to a different position is not an option ?

Or the use of combined auxiliary units...

 

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  • 3 months later...

Somehow I missed this. Must be really encouraging to see that all sit together!?  Perhaps only a bit of fabrication away from rolling ? 

Do you keep the original bulkhead even with the Willy panels ?  

Are the drums staying ? 😊

 

 

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56 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

Somehow I missed this. Must be really encouraging to see that all sit together!?  Perhaps only a bit of fabrication away from rolling ? 

Yes, should be together soon.... just dreaming!

Do you keep the original bulkhead even with the Willy panels ?  

I kept the original bulkhead for now, as I don't have the MB body yet, so at least I have a reference.

Are the drums staying ? 😊

No.

 

 

 

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If you decide to go the PD130 route at some point, gis a yell. Got 2 or three ECU's kicking about, you are welcome to one.  Had a re-mapped passat with circa 170hp that the missus parked under a car transporter with was a hoot to drive, in the dry.  Just remember to change the timing belt and the alternator belt at the same time.  Alternator belt let go and get sucked into timing chest then chaos ensues.  They can also chew up cam followers and cams if cheap oil/infrequent used. Other than that those engines have a very long life, My Golf (driven like its stolen) passed its test this year with 280001 miles on the clock. Passat estate that just ate its timing belt has 290k (and was seriously mistreated by previous owners). Snapped belts are not necessarily catastrophic, if it happens, its worth chucking a belt on , did one couple of years back that snapped at 80mph and survived to run again.

 

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Thanks, but 110 hp in an 80" wheel base is plenty I reckon. I am no good with electronics, so will keep it simple. 

Daan

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4 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

Gosh I missed this !!  Though a bit late for me to consider one in my 80”

It would be good fit I reckon.

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  • 3 months later...

An update, long overdue. There is 0 progress to speak of, due to me trying to get the landrover back on the road. But The project is far from dead, and I am keen to continue, once the landy is running again.

Instead of doing work I went shopping: Check out this little Gem:

large.IMG_3670.JPG.0248a92a1db8a1c9c69807709c932767.JPGlarge.IMG_8185.JPG.c7806835b4227cd94dbbcf40cd82f52a.JPGlarge.body10.jpg.7df6f58397f386cc8d7915dbdf56691a.jpg

I found it on Ebay, from a chap who imported a car from Thailand in 2006; He realised the body was not the same year as the chassis, and decided to get a matching WW2 body for it and sell this body. It is basically an M38 Jeep body (50s military Willys jeep as used during the Vietnam and Korea wars). So not quite WW2, but military all the same. It is in mint condition, has a neat paint job done on it (little patina, which i like. What's more, it is Right hand drive. All of this is not for the purist, but perfect for me, and was less than half the price of a new body. So I picked it up and dropped it on the Mahindra chassis. It is a close fit (not quite the direct bolt on I was expecting), One body mount needs to move on the chassis, and the front shock mount clashes (but is in the right place) with a bit of work it should go on there very well.

large.1928001745_landroverregremoved.jpg.3d157a18c6596530ac2de1fd613fa7e2.jpglarge.IMG_3676.JPG.52bea6dc5b05022ded847f77d673f34a.JPGlarge.IMG_3675.JPG.15896f6022e5a507c2860848a90306cd.JPG

 

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