World War Willys Jeep - from 1990 - Body mounted.

[dirtydiesel]

Looking really good Daan.

 

Will the VW diesel fit under the bonnet ok? 

[Daan]

Cheers Dan.

Plenty of space under the bonnet, the engine is tiny. Other areas are still a problem though, alternator mainly.

Daan

[Anderzander]

12 hours ago, Daan said:

Other areas are still a problem though, alternator mainly.

Could you run it off a flexible shaft ? 😉

[Daan]

10 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Could you run it off a flexible shaft ? 😉

I can predict the outcome of that.

And making the same mistakes, while expecting a different outcome is the first sign of insanity.

Daan

[landroversforever]

1 hour ago, Daan said:

I can predict the outcome of that.

And making the same mistakes, while expecting a different outcome is the first sign of insanity.

Daan

Any option for one of the starter/generator things used in some new stuff? 

[Wytze]

Daan,  do you have room to mount it the other way round?     I did that on the Mini  round nose with a Suzuki G13B.  Turned the altenator around in the wing. 

[Daan]

On 1/21/2022 at 10:36 AM, landroversforever said:

Any option for one of the starter/generator things used in some new stuff? 

That is way too new fashioned for this build!

40 minutes ago, Wytze said:

Daan,  do you have room to mount it the other way round?     I did that on the Mini  round nose with a Suzuki G13B.  Turned the altenator around in the wing. 

I do, but I don't want to. Will cross that bridge when I come to it.

Daan

[Wytze]

Very good!  on the mini i had to..  there was no space between the block and the front.  Would like to see what you come up with.  

[Daan]

An update, I managed to get some time for my jeep project.

The front spring plates were a bit of an issue; The wider springs did not allow me to use standard parts. I tried CJ7 rear spring plates, which fits on the LH side, but the RH side is different, due to one of the u bolts being larger, wrap around the diff housing. So I needed to make my own.

The jeep spring plates are all made out of 1/4" plate; It appears such thing is no longer available in the UK through the usual channels, only 6mm. As this is highly stressed, I did not want to compromise on strength.

Luckily, help was at hand in the shape of his Lordship Sir Stephen Stellaghorst, who send me the needed material for which i am very gratefull.

His help to our community has been tremendous and he has now moved to the Knighthood status in the LR4x4 democracy.

That was the material sorted, and now it came to bending it. I don't have tooling to bend this material, so I will resort to my bare hands to do this, with some added steelwork.

Starting like this, I draw 2 lines for each bend, one is the beginning of the bend, the other the end of the bend:

Clamp it in a vice:

Now add the bending device, this consists of 2 large angle sections clamped together with 2 M12 bolts:

So what we are trying to do is to allow the plate to bend in the area between the black lines, but not anywhere else.

Now add the extension bar, it is a metre long box section with a bit of angle iron welded to it:

Now bend it using the aforementioned bare hands.

now bent:

I usually bend it in 2 stages, one halfway between the line to 45 degrees, then right to the line to get to the full 90 degrees.

Not too bad a bend:

After this, cut off excess material, drill the holes and weld on the shock absorber pin, which I cut out of the original spring plates:

Mounted, a bit of modding was required to the dana diff housing so the larger u-clap can move further inboard:

Thanks for reading,

 

Daan

 

[Blanco]

Love the creative approach to bending,! and that is a tough ol' bit of stuff. And a nice job too, results look great. It is nice to have the genuine 1/4 plate,...I get that 6mm seemed like a step down but I am sure it would have been fine in practice. Nice not to have to though.

[Stellaghost]

That bending is impressive, couldn't have done it any better in my press

To do it in my vice......... Well I would have had to fix bench to the wall first

Well done regards Stephen

[Anderzander]

Nice work Daan - super help from Stephen 🙂

[Stellaghost]

10 hours ago, Daan said:

as now moved to the Knighthood status in the LR4x4 democracy

I've been trying to come up with a suitable reply to this, but the truth is I'm still gobsmacked and humbled.

All I can do is offer my gratitude to all concerned and emphasise what a great place this forum is

Regards Stephen

[Carloz]

6mm or 6,35mm... Big deal.  The (unkown?) material quality is a bigger factor...

But well, progress there is! 🙃

[Daan]

3 hours ago, Carloz said:

6mm or 6,35mm... Big deal.  The (unkown?) material quality is a bigger factor...

But well, progress there is! 🙃

The difference is 0.35mm, or 6%. Not much, but because the spring is much wider (about 40%, since I  started in percentages), the bending force on these is much greater. So I made them much deeper compared to original. Surely 6mm would have done it, but given the option, I thought 1/4" would be better.

Daan

[Anderzander]

It’s a Jeep - it has to be imperial doesn’t it ? 
 

it would be like having metric fasteners on my 80 😨

[Stellaghost]

6 hours ago, Carloz said:

The (unkown?) material quality is a bigger factor... 

The material is good old British made steel produced in the days when quality wasn't sacrificed for profit.

Which is more than I can say for the stuff we had fitted on a massive project at work, 10 mm plate steel wearing through only 3 months after installation on around 30% plant usage, proper good chineseium..............

Regards Stephen

[daveturnbull]

Any progress Daan?

[Daan]

Hi, here we are again with a (long overdue) update. Summer was mainly spent entertaining my family and seemingly came and went in a flash. So here we are, 9 months and 2 prime ministers later, I have something new to show; I decided to have a clear out of my garage by mounting parts to the chassis, starting with the largest lump, engine and gearbox. Now I have the body, I could take measurements to check for any potential clashes with the VW TDI. It shows that the Mahindra is different in a few areas to the Willys body I have. The gearbox is mounted further backwards compared to the Willys, and is also longer, it being a 4 speed. As a result, the engine rocker cover flange of the VW has no clearance to the bulkhead, and the gear stick does not line up with the hole in the tunnel. More interesting things are happening once I tried to fit the prop shafts; They are too short. The rear by about 5mm, which is the result of the parabolic springs drooping much further due to them being quite soft. (This is all done with the axles hanging of the springs). The front prop was more worrying, as it somehow was too short by about 1 inch. After some measuring, it appears the Dana 30 diff I use is 1” shorter than the Dana 27 it replaced.

So, a few problems to think about (plus many more, but for another time). After some head scratching, I decided best solution is to move the engine and box forward by about 30mm solving all these problems. It will need a longer rear prop, which is a good thing, as the Mahindra one is comically short, resulting in unhealthy U/J angles at full droop. The U/J’s are Identical to Defender ones, so it should be easy adapt a defender prop.

With the location decided on, I could start fabricating engine mounts. I am using the original Hydraulic mounts that came with the engine (It is a 1.9 TDI 110 out of a Passat B5, engine code AFN, not the 90 HP version I thought previously). I am mimicking the original setup of the Passat, apart from the Engine lying on its side in the Passat by about 30 degrees, where I fit it in the upright position in the Jeep. The included angle of the AV mounts is about 45 degrees in the Passat, which I maintained in my mount arrangement. The chassis brackets are made out of 100 x 100 x 5 mm box section, like this:

 

The engine brackets were made out of 5mm plate, like this:

 

All mounted, it looks like this, RH side:

 

LH side:

 

Engine looks at home in the chassis:

 

Thanks for reading!

Daan

[Anderzander]

Excellent news !! 

How’s clearance at the front of the engine in its new position ? 
 

I bet it will be a little rocket with that 1.9 in there. 

[Stellaghost]

1 hour ago, Daan said:

Hi, here we are again with a (long overdue) update. Summer was mainly spent entertaining my family and seemingly came and went in a flash. So here we are, 9 months and 2 prime ministers later, I have something new to show; I decided to have a clear out of my garage by mounting parts to the chassis, starting with the largest lump, engine and gearbox. Now I have the body, I could take measurements to check for any potential clashes with the VW TDI. It shows that the Mahindra is different in a few areas to the Willys body I have. The gearbox is mounted further backwards compared to the Willys, and is also longer, it being a 4 speed. As a result, the engine rocker cover flange of the VW has no clearance to the bulkhead, and the gear stick does not line up with the hole in the tunnel. More interesting things are happening once I tried to fit the prop shafts; They are too short. The rear by about 5mm, which is the result of the parabolic springs drooping much further due to them being quite soft. (This is all done with the axles hanging of the springs). The front prop was more worrying, as it somehow was too short by about 1 inch. After some measuring, it appears the Dana 30 diff I use is 1” shorter than the Dana 27 it replaced.

So, a few problems to think about (plus many more, but for another time). After some head scratching, I decided best solution is to move the engine and box forward by about 30mm solving all these problems. It will need a longer rear prop, which is a good thing, as the Mahindra one is comically short, resulting in unhealthy U/J angles at full droop. The U/J’s are Identical to Defender ones, so it should be easy adapt a defender prop.

With the location decided on, I could start fabricating engine mounts. I am using the original Hydraulic mounts that came with the engine (It is a 1.9 TDI 110 out of a Passat B5, engine code AFN, not the 90 HP version I thought previously). I am mimicking the original setup of the Passat, apart from the Engine lying on its side in the Passat by about 30 degrees, where I fit it in the upright position in the Jeep. The included angle of the AV mounts is about 45 degrees in the Passat, which I maintained in my mount arrangement. The chassis brackets are made out of 100 x 100 x 5 mm box section, like this:

 

The engine brackets were made out of 5mm plate, like this:

 

All mounted, it looks like this, RH side:

 

LH side:

 

Engine looks at home in the chassis:

 

Thanks for reading!

Daan

Just shout if I can help you with materials ( still have 28m of 6" x1/ 4" flat bar ) regards Stephen

[Blanco]

1 hour ago, Daan said:

The engine brackets were made out of 5mm plate, like this:

..... surely you mean 5/16ths?!  

[Daan]

2 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Excellent news !! 

How’s clearance at the front of the engine in its new position ? 
 

I bet it will be a little rocket with that 1.9 in there. 

Loads of space in that area, but less in others...

The Passat B5 with this engine does 122MPH according to the specs, and is 100 kg heavier compared to the Jeep.

I am planning on fitting a block of wood under the throttle!

[Daan]

1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

Just shout if I can help you with materials ( still have 28m of 6" x1/ 4" flat bar ) regards Stephen

Your workshop is the stuff of dreams!

[Daan]

1 hour ago, Blanco said:

..... surely you mean 5/16ths?!  

Christian units again, sometimes I am not sure what to use, Mahindra didn't seem to know either, metric and imperial is randomly used around the car.