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TD5 to V8


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Found this diagram on the inter web which shows the parts we’re discussing.

Is that thermostatic control unit problematic as I don’t see anyone using it on their conversions?

It looks like not only does the heater return need to tee into the bottom hose but also the expansion hose (20). There’s also the additional radiator bleed hoses which I think the TD5 already has so the question is, how important is that expansion hose? Presumably Land Rover fitted it for a reason and it’s quite a step away from the earlier V8 setup they had.

Using the Rangy heater return hose shouldn’t be too difficult should it?

There also seems to be two bleed pipes routed from each side of the radiator to the expansion tank rather than the single I’ve seen before. Is this just belt and braces on LRs part to avoid overheating in the block or air locks?

Would I be better off trying to replicate this system as much as possible or just stick with an earlier arrangement? There will be little in the way of heavy towing, mud plugging or WOT with mine so looking at what everyone else has done it seems an earlier (3.9) setup should suffice.

Same for the oil cooler. If I’m going for a remote setup then is it just as easy to plumb in an engine oil cooler whilst I’m at it?

At the moment I have a great big Ali Sport intercooler behind the grill so I imagine that will leave more than enough room for a cooler once it gets removed. Lastly, has anyone ever fitted the Rangy Thor radiator to a Defender without major butchering of the bodywork?

7A25F886-8455-48A9-AB8A-B20C465AE903.jpeg

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I have a single feed to the expansion tank from the top of the rad. I think mines a standard v8 rad - there's a second port that the throttle heater hose (4) would go to, but I've bypassed the throttle as it leaks - so I have 3 connected to the top of the rad. I've not got the expansion tank to bottom heater hose connection. 

I ditched the weird octupus external thermostat thing - more for simplicity than anything else. It makes the pipe runs much neater - much more like a 'standard' top hose / bottom hose setup. 

The location of the 4.6 oil filter is quite close to where the axle / diff housing ends up under articulation. I put a remote filter plate there to give a bit more clearance, as well as a thermostatic oil take off plate by the filter to the cooler. The on block oil cooler take offs are blanked off. 

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Same as jon - I teed the rad bleed into '3' and did away with the plenum heater, and used standard Defender V8 hoses albeit the bottom one is cut to insert the alloy tee piece for the heater, that way it's all standard Defender V8 as far as possible, rad and all. The Def V8 rad cools fine and I've got no oil cooler on either truck as the oil doesn't get hot and it's one less thing to leak or damage.

I don't like the the P38 "pig's heart" stat thing purely as seamed plastic parts like that can crack and can't be repaired in the field, at least a metal pipe or rad can be patched up.

Temperature tell-tale labels let me know if I need to consider an oil cooler, I've plastered both my trucks with them and nothing's gotten too hot yet.

2018-11-18_16-26-27.jpg

 

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BTW - if you want a RRC auto Y pipe to suit 3.9 cast manifolds for nowt, I have a **itpart one left over - I swapped to a stainless one.

It's not great, but doesn't leak and might help get you up and running. Collection only from N Wilts or South Gloucestershire though!

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Cheers Jon.

If there are tried and tested sections that definitely work then I’ll probably also get them In stainless from the outset.

I’m assuming the Rangy auto one already has the lambda sensor bosses welded in and you just blanked one off as I think the MS only uses one O2 sensor doesn’t it?

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Indeed, and really if you want to run a single lambda, just put it in the Y, otherwise you won't ever get a reading from the other bank.

It's great to ask all these questions, but does feel like you are getting into microscopic detail, when what you actually need to do is get started :) 

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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Indeed, and really if you want to run a single lambda, just put it in the Y, otherwise you won't ever get a reading from the other bank.

It's great to ask all these questions, but does feel like you are getting into microscopic detail, when what you actually need to do is get started :) 

It's my OCD🤦‍♂️, I need to be organised and prepared in advance as much as possible to minimise the downtime for the vehicle which is my daily . I only have very limited access to engineering support too so trying to remove the need for modifying, welding etc etc is important to me. As much bolt on as possible is the rule of thumb for me and in any case I'm not in any great rush to do this conversion so I can afford to take my time and do the research.

The question about the lambda and the replies to it are an example of my point as I would have just gone away and fitted one to a downpipe which would have been an expensive mistake.

I do appreciate all the support and time taken by people to reply and hopefully this thread will also be useful to others considering the same conversion.😊

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Cool :)

 

I think my point still stands to an extent, get an engine, get whatever you need to start bolting stuff onto it, build the Megasquirt loom, fit an exhaust y-pipe, lambda, layout it all out and connect the TD5 system, even get the PAS pipe/hose made up, make sure it all works on the floor, then you can drop it in.

It is ambitious, I like the thinking, hope it works out, at some point you do need to do something,or it ends up just being vapour ;) 

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Single lambda downstream of the Y is fine, but re-using a bung on one bank would also work although obviously it's not perfect - since you're not tuning per-bank, as long as both banks are firing OK they'll be similar and the picture will be "close enough"...

Remember you can run with no lambda at all and just treat it as a carb you can tune by laptop :lol: - turn the EGO correction down to 0% and use the Butt Dyno / Mk1 Nostril to determine if it's running right.

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2 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Remember you can run with no lambda at all and just treat it as a carb you can tune by laptop :lol: - turn the EGO correction down to 0% and use the Butt Dyno / Mk1 Nostril to determine if it's running right.

May as well fit a carb..... :banned:

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  • 2 months later...
7 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:

Hey everyone, what's the latest with this project/idea?

 

Cheers

Dave

Hi Dave

I decided instead to use the V8 in my Series 3. Once that project has been completed, the Series will be my daily and the 110 will be sold so in the meantime I’ll just leave I as a standard TD5. There’s a lot of information from this thread that I’ll be using in that project though.
 

 

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