RizzleKicks Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Hey Folks , Looking for advice , own a 2004 FL 1 Diesel from new & just covered 85,000 miles with FSH. Noticed a few weeks ago when I am changing gear the pedal does come back up but occasionally I have to put my foot under the pedal to hear it click I would say about 0.5CM to bring it back to normal sitting position. Put it to the local garage and without taking it for a run said the clutch is starting to wear, never towed or been off road with it. I have no Clutch Fluid loss and not sure what to do or replace first. Got a quote from the local Stealers on Genuine parts etc see below . Flywheel - £749.59 Flywheel Bolts - £17.68 Clutch Kit - £199.35 Clutch Bolts - £9.60 Slave Cylinder - £148.92 Master Cylinder - £133.24 Labour - £900.00 Plus 20 % Vat Nearly the price of a FL 1 . Would appreciate any advice as not wanting to get rid of the old deer either. Regards, RizzleKicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicklow Landie Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Replace the master cylinder if your getting no fluid loss, it’s a very straightforward and simple job. Any decent mechanic or good DIYer can do that task I can understand why they suggest a flywheel but at that mileage save yourself the cost. My FL has 220k miles and it’s flywheel is good. Also go to an independent specialist, may be well cheaper. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicklow Landie Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Apologies I forgot to say, it sounds like the master cylinder, I have seen the exact same complaint with customers Freelanders. A fresh master cylinder does the trick. Check eBay for a cheaper master cylinder that stealer prices, but get a reputable brand! Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 Thanks for the advice will look into ordering this part & fingers crossed it works :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 Forgot to ask is this quite common to fail & what causes it to fail ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 Hey where best to order a genuine Master Cylinder apart from the Steelers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Britcar are decent for parts online, but I would advise buying genuine if you're intending to keep the car for a while. TD4 master cyl can be replaced quite easily as it's on a dry-break coupling. You don't want to do the slave cyl as by the time you're in there you may as well do the whole clutch & flywheel, which is expensive due to the DMF. Main dealers will be expensive, think my TD4 cost me about £1000 all in for an OEM clutch & DMF + slave cyl + fitting from memory. At 85k the clutch should have loads left, my slave cylinder went at about 155k and the clutch was pretty much toast by then although still working fine - but that'd been towing & off-roading intermittently for ~50k by then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 Thanks for the advice Fridge , hopefully order it for the weekend and get it fitted. 🤞 crossed that will sort the issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 Evening Folks, Getting a new master Cylinder Fitted to the Hippo this weekend as the pedal is getting a bit spongy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 Morning Folks, The hippo goes in on Monday to get a New Clutch Master Cylinder , Slave & Clutch ,fingers crossed it goes smoothly and I’m back on the road asap. Question I have is would I need to replace the Transfer & Gear Box Oil & if so how much would I need & what brand and grade to go for ? Reason I’m asking is I would rather supply the garage with oil than be charged double 😂 Its a 2004 Manual with 85K on the clock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 It can't hurt to replace the oil but it shouldn't need to be touched. Pretty sure it's MTF94 for the gearbox, can't remember if the IRD shares that or has its own. Try Smith & Allen for MTF94 unless you're in a hurry, failing that most motor factors should have it... but TBH making the garage use your oil is not a worthwhile exercise as it just annoys them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 According to the LR service the gear box oil should be replaced at 96,000 miles. Boys in the garage know me pretty well so won’t be upsetting them using my own oil , 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RizzleKicks Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 936976.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbo66 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 according to the haines manual a spongy feeling is associated with air in the line and a TD4 has a bleeder nipple for the hydraulic clutch which is far cheaper than replacing cylinders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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