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Discovery conversion kit


cefn_bran
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My Disco 1994 300TDi has just mashed its cam belt and subseqently done huge damage to LOTS of stuff :( I could look at fixing it, but I have a good Nissan Patrol SD33 engine sitting here, and the thought has crossed my mind of doing a swap...

Has anyone had any experience of this, known someone who has done it, know if there is a conversion plate for it?

Comments, please...

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If its only a cam belt broken it shouldn't be too much, likely to need a belt, may need the upgrade kit fitted (though at that age I doubt very much it is the original belt so it should have been done already) probably a few bent pushrods and maybe one or two broken rockers but I have seen dozens of belt failures and never a single bent valve or damaged pistons - the pushrods are the weak point and in that respect it's a good design!

No idea on the SD33 engine but I seem to think somebody does a kit for Nissan engines just can't remember who. Personally I'd fix the Tdi though unless it has starship mileage and is about worn out.

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Yes, like Steve says, check out the 300 first. Cam belt failures are not uncommon, had one myself, but can't think of anyone that's ended up scrapping the engine as a result. Chances are all you'll need is a new belt and push rods, and won't need to remove the engine or even the head.

Of course we could be wrong but you'll have to post up pics of the damage as it will be a bit of a record.

Welcome to the forum BTW :D

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the cambelt has snapped twice on my 200tdi, its still working. last time it cost about £100 including anti-freeze to replace the belt & all 8 pushrods - i think 5 or 6 bent & they came in bags of 4, besides for the price i thought sod it & splashed out.

just check the idler & tensioner bearings, they seized up due to water ingress causing my 1st belt failure. the 2nd belt failure is unexplained, i blame the dumb idea of cambelts in general - give me a chain or gears anyday.

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If its only a cam belt broken it shouldn't be too much, likely to need a belt, may need the upgrade kit fitted (though at that age I doubt very much it is the original belt so it should have been done already)

if they've not been modified is it only a matter of time before they chew a belt and do damage? according to my s/h the cambelt was changed at 80909 and again at 124830. famous four had a look recently and said it's not been modded :o although it's been serviced by the dealer that it came from right up till it's first cambelt! how often do you think it should it be changed now, to be on the safe side? it's done just over 132000 now. i gather that the mod is a pretty big job. :( DD

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if they've not been modified is it only a matter of time before they chew a belt and do damage? according to my s/h the cambelt was changed at 80909 and again at 124830. famous four had a look recently and said it's not been modded :o although it's been serviced by the dealer that it came from right up till it's first cambelt! how often do you think it should it be changed now, to be on the safe side? it's done just over 132000 now. i gather that the mod is a pretty big job. :( DD

Depends on the age. Some time in 1996 the mod becomes much simpler, PM me with your VIN and I'll check. Basically the early vehicles 1994-96 need a big kit which includes a new timing case (not front cover - reuse that) all new pulleys, a bracket for the injector pump, belt and a few other bits. Later vehicles need the little kit which is just new pulleys and belt.

The kits are still available from Bearmach, STC4095K is the big kit (inc timing case) and STC4096K is the little kit (pulleys and belt). Kit 1 takes about a day to fit, kit 2 about half a day IIRC.

It was never a recall action, only a "service action" which means that the dealer will do it under warranty even if out of warranty, but will not do it unless the fault is evident i.e. timing belt chafing. There is no rhyme nor reason about when they start, I've seen a belt well gone on a 1000 mile service, equally have seen some early high milers which didn't start for ages. Yours is exceptional though. Sadly the "service action" was terminated several years ago on the assumption that all affected vehicles would have been done - but I still see them here.

You can check for wear by getting a bit of wire about six or eight inches long, bending a little hook in the end and sticking it up the drain hole in the timing case. Have a wriggle around and if you get lots of black fluff hanging out, the belt is chafing and needs doing. No fluff, you are probably pretty safe, and you can do this check monthly or whatever only takes 2 min, to keep an eye on things.

See here for little kit/belt fitting ;)

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6943

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Thanks for all your advice and the welcome. Very helpful.

I've just returned to Land Rover after a few years break from Series 3 onto Nissan. This is my first Discovery, and am quite happy with it (despite having to replace the turbo and PAS pump); it's quiet and warm and the CD player works.

I've delved a little down into the engine - many bent pushrods and two snapped rockers. Haven't yet taken the head off to check valves etc. LR90 is suggesting I maybe don't need to remove the head "Chances are all you'll need is a new belt and push rods, and won't need to remove the engine or even the head." (as valve damage is rare). Is it wise not to? - would sure be easier to leave it on.

I've already got the timing belt kit in, and got a set of pushrods at the same time just in case. Rockers are going to take some time, because its Christmas and everywhere is shut (of course). Plenty of time to investigate and clean everything up, then ;)

Have a great Christmas (or whatever you celebrate), all of you.

Ivan

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It is almost unheard of for any engine damage, and I have seen a lot of snapped ones. Just do the belt (and mod kit if reqd) and change the pushrods (all 8 of them if in any doubt), the broken rockers, and change all 8 of the rotator caps too as they often crack and can split and fall out when you start the engine. We have done a lot at work over the last 7 or 8 years and I cannot remember one that had a problem, on one I saw, one of the pushrods was so bent it wouldn't come out through the block/head and we needed about a 4 foot long crows foot crowbar pivoting on a block of wood sat on the head to "persuade" it to come out!

If in doubt then do the work and turn the engine over by hand half a dozen times - if a valve is snapped or bent (which I doubt) you should be able to feel the lack of compression or everything jam up solid but I really doubt it.

If it runs like a bucket of bolts when started, and does need to be stripped down, well basically all you have wasted is a couple of gaskets so its worth that risk IMHO as you may otherwise end up doing a lot of work you didn't need to. We never pull the head off nowadays and have never had a problem that I can remember.

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roger the above, ive had two belts snap on my lump & a few months after the 2nd one i took the heaf off for other reasons (looking for a loss of power) couldnt even see any marks where the valves had hit.

im not sure all discos have the valve stem caps, im not sure how/why they decided which to fit them too either. if you've got them they are worth replacing if not dont worry about it. i replaced mine on the 1st belt failure but didnt bother on the 2nd as they all looked ok. that part of the engine is still fine, if only i could stop it eating woodruff keys in the crank...

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