Darren Roberts Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 Hi Guys, Follow on from last thread, took the truck out on New Years Day Laning and the coil fried itself. Anyway took it on the chin and had it recovered to the local 4x4 specialist I get my parts from to let them have a look. It turns out that the new Lucus coil and the new Lucas dizzy amp are both fried, so on with a new amp and a Bosch coil, plus they've set the base idle properly.... Anyway this now leads me to the next question, if the engine is running ok I'm considering going LPG, if not then I'll leave it as is for now. But on the ignition side I'm seriously considering either the RPI Ignition Amp upgrade or megajolt. RPI are about an our away from Cambridge where I'm based. Trigger-Wheels you do the megajolt kit just up the road in Ely. Obviously mega-jolt is about twice the price, I'm looking or a really easy DIY setup and currently not considering MegaSquirt, as it's just a landing vehicle I'm looking for decent MPG and reliability, rather than power. What would you go for? thanks Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 RPI ignition amp is not an upgrade, and not even mega jolt will fix rough running if there an issue somewhere else.... Given you have a new, working amp, have you checked the other usual suspects, cap, rotor, Bob weight springs, leads, plugs? Done a physical check for broken/corroded wiring to the various sensors/injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 Hi Bowie, I will check but I believe the 4x4 specialist has sorted all that, as they said they've got it running a lot better now. the only issue re the coil was that the Lucus replacement they put on it (hey supplied the original one that failed and very kindly replaced it under warranty) is that the new one was getting very hot as well. So I think the other issues to do with rough running has been sorted by them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 If the new coil is getting very hot you need to check the rated voltage and whether your vehicle has a ballast or not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerumo Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 If your coil is running hot its ok, very hot?,,,,,,,,, not ok. If you have a new coil, please also check if its the type that uses a ballast resistor for voltage control. Rough running on the other hand could come from a number of places............leaky spark plug cables, leaky spark plugs, clogged injector nozzles, Dirty Throttle flap, air leak on the inlet manifold and some other points. Spending money on a new coil will definitely not solve your rough idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Guys, The rough idle has been sorted by the 4x4 specialist. I was just asking everyone's opinion on whether or not to go MegaJolt or RPI ignition amp as an upgrade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 Well, RPI ignition amp, is *not* and upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Thanks Bowie, so you reckon MegaJolt would be a good way to go to avoid these issue in future? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 Megajolt all the way, what setup are you looking at - it driving the coil & dizzy or actually going distributorless (which is more work but sooo much nicer IMHO, especially for LPG) Oh and "no" to RPI's ignition amp. You can fit generic Bosch ignition amp modules from any number of 1990's cars and run big coils if you want for about £20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 (edited) Nige, I'm not 100% sure what the difference is too be honest. I was looking at one of the trigger-wheels kits - my understanding is that the dizzy stays in to drive the oil pump, unless I replace it with the stumpy version. A mate has a kit for sale, so probably have that off him - not sure if its one of your kits but he's had a few bits off you in the past.....My engine is the 3.9 multi belt....1992 hard dash rangie.... Edited February 14, 2019 by Darren Roberts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 I'm not Nige - that's @Hybrid_From_Hell Yes the dizzy stays behind the drive the oil pump, you can cut its head off or just leave it, makes no odds really. Megajolt / megasquirt can run from a variety of pickups - from basic points to full trigger wheel, and control a single coil (literally acting like a smarter ignition amp) or coil packs to give you distributorless ignition. A Megasquirt ECU can be run as ignition-only giving you the path to add fuel injection later. Both can give you switchable maps for LPG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 (edited) Sorry FridgeFreezer, getting confused..... I was going to go for the trigger wheel. with coil pack setup, leave the dizzy in for now just for the pump drive..... Edited February 15, 2019 by Darren Roberts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 That'd be the ideal - I don't know if the standard MJ unit has table switching or if you have to specify it as an extra at build-time, worth checking as that's a major advantage for LPG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Yes, 2 wires for the shift solenoids, one for the lockup, and one for the 'pressure', a modulated signal determining how the ferocious the changes are and how tight the clutches hang on. Megashift, or any of the arduino-type based transmission controllers will do it happily in DIY form, or you can go with one of the commercial offerings, but expect to pay 4 figures for it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 3 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Yes, 2 wires for the shift solenoids, one for the lockup, and one for the 'pressure', a modulated signal determining how the ferocious the changes are and how tight the clutches hang on. Megashift, or any of the arduino-type based transmission controllers will do it happily in DIY form, or you can go with one of the commercial offerings, but expect to pay 4 figures for it. Wrong thread Bowie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Hmmm.... Looks like. It, doh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.