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Range Rover Classic Rough Running


Darren Roberts

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Hi Guys,

Follow on from last thread, took the truck out on New Years Day Laning and the coil fried itself. Anyway took it on the chin and had it recovered to the local 4x4 specialist I get my parts from to let them have a look.

It turns out that the new Lucus coil and the new Lucas dizzy amp are both fried, so on with a new amp and a Bosch coil, plus they've set the base idle properly....

Anyway this now leads me to the next question, if the engine is running ok I'm considering going LPG, if not then I'll leave it as is for now. But on the ignition side I'm seriously considering either the RPI Ignition Amp upgrade or megajolt.  RPI are about an our away  from Cambridge where I'm based. Trigger-Wheels you do the megajolt kit just up the road in Ely. Obviously mega-jolt is about twice the price, I'm looking or a really easy DIY setup and currently not considering MegaSquirt, as it's just a landing vehicle I'm looking for decent MPG and reliability, rather than power.

What would you go for?

thanks

Darren

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RPI ignition amp is not an upgrade, and not even mega jolt will fix rough running if there an issue somewhere else....

Given you have a new, working amp, have you checked the other usual suspects, cap, rotor, Bob weight springs, leads, plugs? Done a physical check for broken/corroded wiring to the various sensors/injectors?

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Hi Bowie,

I will check but I believe the 4x4 specialist has sorted all that, as they said they've got it running a lot better now. the only issue re the coil was that the Lucus replacement they put on it (hey supplied the original one that failed and very kindly replaced it under warranty) is that the new one was getting very hot as well. So I think the other issues to do with rough running has been sorted by them....

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If your coil is running hot its ok, very hot?,,,,,,,,, not ok. If you have a new coil, please also check if its the type that uses a ballast resistor for voltage control. Rough running on the other hand could come from a number of places............leaky spark plug cables, leaky spark plugs, clogged injector nozzles, Dirty Throttle flap,  air leak on the inlet manifold and some other points. Spending money on a new coil will definitely not solve your rough idle.

 

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Megajolt all the way, what setup are you looking at - it driving the coil & dizzy or actually going distributorless (which is more work but sooo much nicer IMHO, especially for LPG)

Oh and "no" to RPI's ignition amp. You can fit generic Bosch ignition amp modules from any number of 1990's cars and run big coils if you want for about £20.

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Nige,

I'm not 100% sure what the difference is too be honest. I was looking at one of the trigger-wheels kits - my understanding is that the dizzy stays in to drive the oil pump, unless I replace it with the stumpy version. A mate has a kit for sale, so probably have that off him - not sure if its one of your kits but he's had a few bits off you in the past.....My engine is the 3.9 multi belt....1992 hard dash rangie....

Edited by Darren Roberts
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I'm not Nige - that's @Hybrid_From_Hell

Yes the dizzy stays behind the drive the oil pump, you can cut its head off or just leave it, makes no odds really.

Megajolt / megasquirt can run from a  variety of pickups - from basic points to full trigger wheel, and control a single coil (literally acting like a smarter ignition amp) or coil packs to give you distributorless ignition.

A Megasquirt ECU can be run as ignition-only giving you the path to add fuel injection later.

Both can give you switchable maps for LPG.

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Yes, 2 wires for the shift solenoids, one for the lockup, and one for the 'pressure', a modulated signal determining how the ferocious the changes are and how tight the clutches hang on.

Megashift, or any of the arduino-type based transmission controllers will do it happily in DIY form, or you can go with one of the commercial offerings, but expect to pay 4 figures for it.

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3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Yes, 2 wires for the shift solenoids, one for the lockup, and one for the 'pressure', a modulated signal determining how the ferocious the changes are and how tight the clutches hang on.

Megashift, or any of the arduino-type based transmission controllers will do it happily in DIY form, or you can go with one of the commercial offerings, but expect to pay 4 figures for it.

Wrong thread Bowie?

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