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Series 2a/3 clutch


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I've not put my series up for sale yet but will do before long.

One thing I'd like to fix though is the clutch (or at least have a look at)

I'm not quite sure where to start though.

The problem is that the clutch pedal simply does not move. It is rock solid and is still at the top. I couldn't move it.

Any ideas, I didn't want to start persuading it in case I broke something else.

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So, where has your diagnostic process already been?  The obvious is to remove the inspection cover of the cylinder casing to see if it is the linkage that is siezed.  A generous dose of lubricant and working would resolve that.  Removal may be necessary and isn't an impossible task.  Failing that, you need to drain the hydraulic system.  Stuck clutch plates or seized cylinders don't tend to give an absolutely solid pedal as you suggest - there would usually be a little give.  Indeed, stuck plates would allow you to press as normal with loss of pressure.

Let us know how you get on.

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Is it a 2a or a 3?  The slave cylinder arrangement is different.

First thing to try - release the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and try pressing the pedal.  If fluid comes out and the pedal moves then the master cylinder should be OK.  If the pedal still doesn't move then suspect the master cylinder or the pipework - it's not unknown for the rubber flexible pipe to deteriorate  internally and form a blockage.  The pedal could have seized on its pivot.

Make sure the slave cylinder pushrod returns completely when the pedal is up, and there should be slight play between the pedal and the pushrod when the pedal is up.  Check the pedal return spring.

 

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If it's totally jammed this is likely the pin in the pedal housing being rusted solid. Nobody every lubricates them and its quite common to be jammed up with rust after extended periods not used. Squirt some penetrating oil inside at the pin, give it a few hours and try persuading the pedal to move. A hydraulic fault or seizure at the slave end would still give a little movement in the pedal as there's always room for "spring" in the hydraulic lines and linkages. A little gentle heat aimed at the pin from either side can help too. Plumbers torch is ideal. 

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On 2/27/2019 at 11:21 PM, rtbarton said:

Is it a 2a or a 3?  The slave cylinder arrangement is different.

First thing to try - release the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and try pressing the pedal.  If fluid comes out and the pedal moves then the master cylinder should be OK.  If the pedal still doesn't move then suspect the master cylinder or the pipework - it's not unknown for the rubber flexible pipe to deteriorate  internally and form a blockage.  The pedal could have seized on its pivot.

Make sure the slave cylinder pushrod returns completely when the pedal is up, and there should be slight play between the pedal and the pushrod when the pedal is up.  Check the pedal return spring.

 

It is a mixture of 2a and 3 parts, I think the parts will be Series 3 parts but I'm not 100% sure.

 

On 2/27/2019 at 11:21 PM, jordan_meakin said:

So, where has your diagnostic process already been?  The obvious is to remove the inspection cover of the cylinder casing to see if it is the linkage that is siezed.  A generous dose of lubricant and working would resolve that.  Removal may be necessary and isn't an impossible task.  Failing that, you need to drain the hydraulic system.  Stuck clutch plates or seized cylinders don't tend to give an absolutely solid pedal as you suggest - there would usually be a little give.  Indeed, stuck plates would allow you to press as normal with loss of pressure.

Let us know how you get on.

No diagnostics yet! Other than attempting to press the pedal and it not moving. My time was spent trying to start the engine!

On 2/28/2019 at 9:45 AM, lo-fi said:

If it's totally jammed this is likely the pin in the pedal housing being rusted solid. Nobody every lubricates them and its quite common to be jammed up with rust after extended periods not used. Squirt some penetrating oil inside at the pin, give it a few hours and try persuading the pedal to move. A hydraulic fault or seizure at the slave end would still give a little movement in the pedal as there's always room for "spring" in the hydraulic lines and linkages. A little gentle heat aimed at the pin from either side can help too. Plumbers torch is ideal. 

It is totally jammed - it doesn't move what-so-ever! I'll try the penetrating oil and see what happens. 

 

Thanks for the suggestions - I did try replying earlier in the week but for some reason I couldn't submit my reply, looks to be working now though!

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Definitely the pedal itself seized on the pivot, then. I've freed off a few on various projects, they don't give up easily. A bit of heat seems to be the key and get some penetrating oil on while it's still warm but not hot. 

Good luck and let us know how you get on. 

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