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sbowman

1988 110 2.5 Turbo Head Lights on/off

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Hello,

I have a 1988 110 w/2.5 Turbo. The issue is the head lights/lamps can only be turned off by removing the fuse's or disconnecting the positive battery cable. I have one hot/powered lead/wire to each head lamp w/just battery connected. I question whether there should be any power to the L & R lamps w/o head lamp switch in the on position? The head lights/lamps are in dim/dip. When using the switch I can get the lamps to go into bright. Any suggestions would great be appreciated.

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Posted (edited)

There should be no 12v feed to any of the lights with the switch in the off position, the ground sides of all the lights are permanently connected to chassis ground and rely on a positive feed from the switch to operate.

Sounds to me like you may have a faulty dim/dip relay with an internal short circuit, I'd start by disconnecting the dim/dip resistor, on the later cars it's mounted inside the front RH wheel arch, I'm not so sure of the location on the earlier cars.

I think most UK car owners have already disabled the dim/dip for reliability reasons as they're not a legal requirement over here, not sure how you stand with that Stateside.

Edited by crwoody

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on your '88 110 behind the instrument pack attached to the top of the inner frame is a ridged black box, just disconnect it & normal light functions should return to normal BUT with NO dimdip ability, which is not been a legal requierement since 2006 when the law was dismissed, daytime running lights [DRL's] have superseded dim dip on newer vehicles. 

96515-Large.jpg

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This was a UK only requirement a number of years ago. Do as Western describes above and the problem should be resolved.

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Thank you, unplugged the DIM DIP Control Unit. Yes lights went back to off w/switch in the off position. Column switch in the on position I get low beam. It would appear the relay is the issue? Yes a legal requirement in the states.

Best regards, Scott

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those units are uneliable & expensive, you may be able to repair it if your good at electronics or know someone who is.

or if you can find a new one as they are no longer available from LR.

One on Ebay UK pages

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-Land-Rover-Headlamp-Dim-DIP-ECU-PRC8123/644662204?iid=183701913976

or https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=prc8123&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10

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4 hours ago, neil110 said:

Judging by all the fins on the unit, I am guessing it is a resistor rather than a relay, it should be possible to replace the genuine unit with a resistor of similar capacity for pennies.

It could be both.

Later vehicles had a more simple resistor (XBL10003L) and separate relay (YWC10050L) behind the dash, presumably because the earlier one is unreliable. You could wire in the later setup - it may cost you the same but be more reliable.

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This is what I am seeing PRC8123 Halogen (Orange male end as Western has shown). PRC6336 Sealed beam (White male end) which is in mine. Yes no? I am finding one can still buy both, new. Pricing is all over the road map. US LR $300.00 plus, UK as little as $154.00. What cause's this unit to go bad? I have had the 110 Pick up truck for about 6 months. Prior owner had installed H2 halogens. Could the halogen's have cause the issue to seal beam controller? I have pulled the H2's and replaced w/LED's. I do know halogens require more/draw AMP's to work, running hotter than LED's. I would presume PRC6336 will work for LED's as the AMP draw is less than sealed beam?

Best regards, Scott

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Yes there are 2 variants as you have found, even with normal halogen 60/55watt headlights theunit still fails after a length of time, since I've owned my 110 [1989] which originally had the orange socket version, I got through 7 units in 20 years, never found out why they fail, think I threw them in the bin, 

instead as dim dip is no longer a UK requirement I changed the headlights to ones with a sidelight inside & wired them to be on with the normal side/tail lights. 

as the dim dip system puts the dip headlight [55watt] on at about 10% power, then a 5watt side light in each headlight is about the same brightness & doesn't really on a unreliable unit to run them, 

halogens going through the sealed beam unit will kill it quite quick I think as sealed beam dip beam is a lower wattage.

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