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RRC Rear Prop Fitting

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HI,

I've had to fit a new rear propshaft to my 94 RRC and, while the old one came off easy enough, I'm having a problem fitting the new one.  My car has the later prop with the 3-eared flange and rubber doughnut and there is a nose piece that sticks out from the rear diff and goes into a bearing in the end of the prop.  It seams like the rear axle has rotated slightly so the nose-piece is pointing down just enough to stop it slotting into the prop, I've tried putting the trolley jack under the nose of the axle to push it back up but it just lifted the whole rear end.  Has anybody else had this problem or have any ideas on what to do about it?

Relatedly, as I need to use the car tonight to get to work if I couldn't fix this and just left the rear prop off would it run as front wheel drive and, if so would that damage the centre viscous, or would it just spin the rear attachment and go nowhere?

Thanks,

Alex.

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As far as I can remember it’s ok to run it as two wheeled vehicle. Not 100% about the viscous though. 

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It won't be a fan of the situation, no.

Can you fit a ratchet strap from the axle to the chassis and tilt the axle like that? Shouldn't be necessary though, is it lifted?

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Have had to run a Disco with rear prop missing for a short period should manage it no problem bu you will need center diff locked  to ensure it will drive at the front axle

Regards Stephen

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57 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Have had to run a Disco with rear prop missing for a short period should manage it no problem bu you will need center diff locked  to ensure it will drive at the front axle

A Disco has an LT230 with manually locking diff, which will not be damaged by a missing prop. A RRC with a BW and a viscous coupling will be. Very different situations.

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Have you tried fitting the rear end of the prop first and then fitting the gear box end?  That should allow you all the alignment movement you need, and you'll have enough leverage on the prop to align the front afterwards.

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Thanks all for your help and advice.  Finally managed to get it on after a few cups of tea and some frustrated swearing about car designers.  To answer a couple of questions the car is standard not lifted and I did try to fit the back end first but, 'cause of the angle it needed to be at to go on the nose-piece, I didn't have enough clearance between the axle and the trans brake.  Eventually I ended up with the chassis on stands, the axle dropped as far as it would go and then had to take the trans brake drum off.  This gave just enough clearance to get the rear end on the axle and, with the bolts loosly done up, I could use the prop as a lever to pull down on so I had enough room to refit the trans brake drum.  After that the front flange slotted on the bolts without any trouble, although the flange nuts were a real pain to do up as I couldn't get a socket on them and I don't have any imperial stubby spanners (guess I'll have to force myself to buy some more tools :) ).

Cheers again for the replies, hope this can be of help to anyone who has a similar problem in the future.

Alex.

 

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Sounds like the slip joint must be siezed ?

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Yes, something must be wrong here, this is not at all normal.

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I agree - there is no way you should have had problems getting the length of the prop in after fitting the back end.  You must have a faulty prop with limited slip joint travel.  It could be compacted, dried grease at the bottom of the tube, but it's not going to do your transmission or diff any favours each time it bottoms out.  Best take it off again, mark the slip joint alignment and then dismantle it to clear out any muck and inspect it.

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