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My birthday is in July and am planning to buy myself a present of an L322. I have an good idea for what I want but would appreciate pointers of problems I need to look for. Gearboxes and overheating are two issues that I am aware of.

I am looking at either a TDV8 or a petrol V8 on LPG.

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If you can, get the 4.4 TDV8. It is has less problems than the 3.6. With the 8 speed auto it is a fabulous car to drive.

Both have issues - valley oil cooler lets go on the 4.4, turbos let go on the 3.6. Earlier cars are better for rust than late cars (rear arches and top tailgate lower lip).

The jag petrol V8 is not good on gas for some reason.( Valve seats?)

4.2 S/C is the best bargain car if you can live with the fuel bills.

5.0 S/C is the money no object choice.

 

Head over to fullfatRR.com for lots of useful info.

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I have owned/ driven all of them except for the 5.0 supercharged. It really depends on your budget

 

The 4.4 TDV8 was out of budget for me 5 years ago but they are looking really good value for money now. I have a 2010 3.6 TDV8 so it looks the same as the 4.4 but with the older engine/box. My old man has the 4.4 TDV8. The change from my older (BMW) V8 petrol was huge, the dynamic suspension and improved gearboxes make a big difference

 

How much are you thinking of spending?

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Am looking from 2005 to 2010 depending on miles, spec, condition etc. Have seen a couple of Overfinch's which I really like otherwise I am very open. Looking at the price of the 4.4TDV8 I am thinking it os out of the budget even doing a finance option it would mean going for a high mileage which I really want to avoid.

There is only a couple of things that are immovable, it has to be black and have a cream or lightstone leather lol.

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I've recently got rid of my 2010 3.6 TDV8. As said EGRs / Turbos can cause issues - the two are linked - failing EGRs causes the turbos to have to work too hard, which can result in big bills (around £3500 for 2x turbos and a new pair of EGRs), but the turbos can fail on their own as well.

The 6 speed box is supposed to be better than the earlier ones, but torque converters can play up - that's another £1000 please to get it swapped before it breaks up and trashes the rest of the box. When they start to fail they don't completely lock up - light throttle on hills the revs will rise/fall. 

It also had some random electrical issues - radar cruise control would occasionally lock itself out until the car was turned off and on again, and there was an adaptive suspension error that would regularly occur over the course of 2 months then cleared itself up never to come back. 

Tailgate on mine was rusty as well. 

Overall it was a very nice place to travel in, but the running costs are not cheap - they are not a car you can run on a budget! The build quality on mine was also a bit iffy IMHO for something that's supposed to be the pinnacle of luxury - quite a few trim rattles, inside the doors, the passenger side door shut lines were all off (although it didn't appear to have ever been bumped). 

I did like it though, and I'd probably consider another one at some point!

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I agree about the EGR's - I bought mine at 75k and changed them as a matter of precaution. £400 for the parts then (think they are cheaper now) and about 3-4 hours fairly easy work. Worth it for the peace of mind.

Touch wood my turbos and gearbox have been fine. I'm now at 96k miles

The adaptive suspension error you talk about is almost certainly the wire that goes into the offside front strut top - the wire gets brittle and breaks. I have also fitted one ride height sensor to mine. Only other fault I have has is the alternator which is a pig of a job due to location.....

Build quality of mine seems very good - maybe Jon had a Friday afternoon special?

 

Worth trying to get  2010 as you get the newer shape grill, new suspension, digital dash.

Also well worth getting a Vogue SE over a Vogue as the price is very close now and you get a lot more on the SE e.g. adaptive cruise, air cooled seats, adaptive headlights etc

 

I love mine! Will only be replacing it when I can afford a 4.4 L405 as there seems little point in changing it for a 4.4 L322 now

 

 

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4 hours ago, L19MUD said:

I agree about the EGR's - I bought mine at 75k and changed them as a matter of precaution. £400 for the parts then (think they are cheaper now) and about 3-4 hours fairly easy work. Worth it for the peace of mind.

The price of an EGR from Rimmers is £234.00 each and assuming I need 2 that is close to £500.00. So that and a gearbox service are rocommended from the get go for piece of mind. Doesn't seem to be too difficult. 

And a blanking kit can be bought for £35.00 giving more pover and better mpg 😈😈

Overall you guys seem happy with your cars despite them costing dosh to keep on the road but that is the joy of owning a Range Rover or two or in my case three.😮

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12 hours ago, L19MUD said:

Touch wood my turbos and gearbox have been fine. I'm now at 96k miles

The adaptive suspension error you talk about is almost certainly the wire that goes into the offside front strut top - the wire gets brittle and breaks. I have also fitted one ride height sensor to mine. Only other fault I have has is the alternator which is a pig of a job due to location.....

Build quality of mine seems very good - maybe Jon had a Friday afternoon special?

Turbo failed on mine at 115K, ish. No warning, pulled onto a motorway slip road, put my foot down and then a complete loss of power, LOTS of smoke and a trip on a recovery truck. It looked like the passenger side was spewing oil into the inlet. Not really a DIY change either - passenger side one is a right pig to get to :(

When I got it I asked about the EGRs - I was told if they stick which is the normal cause of turbo failure then you get a warning light on the dash - it's then if people carry on driving it it will kill the turbos as they get stressed. I had no such warnings, so possibly it was just the turbo letting go, unrelated to the EGR. EGR blanking kit may need mapping out in software, I looked at it and some people said it will throw a warning light, some said it might do, others had done it and it didn't... 

I also had the gearbox properly serviced when I got it (and paperwork said it had been done before but Cam Tech had a look at the oil and reckoned that it hadn't been done properly) - so that's no guarantee of TC lasting, although it does look fairly uncommon.

Height sensor issue was the drivers rear side - possibly damp or gremlins in the wiring somewhere, but typically the day after I ordered the sensor (£100) the warning message went away and never came back!

If I was to get another one, I'd probably get a petrol one - I don't see the future being bright for diesel at the moment. The trouble is the older 4.2s are reliable but don't have the facelift goodies, and the facelifted ones are the 5.0 which has it's own set of issues (timing chain tensioners) which are £3000 ish to sort out.. :(

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21 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

And a blanking kit can be bought for £35.00 giving more pover and better mpg 😈😈

 

You also need to map them out if you go that route - I think Bell Auto Services can do it

 

Nothing beats a Range Rover in my opinion...just got to be prepared to pay to maintain it!

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12 hours ago, L19MUD said:

You also need to map them out if you go that route - I think Bell Auto Services can do it

I read conflicting reports - BAS say that it will need mapping out, and there's a butterfly elsewhere that will need removal - but the EGRs have to stay electrically connected otherwise it'll throw an error. All the remap does is stop them from actuating. BAS remap would have been about £600 from what I remember, plus another £150 for the EGR patch...

If you remove them fully, you need EGR Emulators which fool the system into thinking they are still there.

A few people have fitted the EGR blanking kits, left the EGRs electrically connected and have not remapped and not had any warning lights..

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On ‎3‎/‎23‎/‎2019 at 4:08 AM, =jon= said:

A few people have fitted the EGR blanking kits, left the EGRs electrically connected and have not remapped and not had any warning lights..

Tempting!

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On 3/20/2019 at 1:22 PM, bishbosh said:

If you can, get the 4.4 TDV8. It is has less problems than the 3.6. With the 8 speed auto it is a fabulous car to drive.

 

Bishbosh

Was speaking yesterday to the local Land Rover specialist when I was booking on my P38. We were discussing the L322 and he is of the same opinion as you. Certainly go for the TDV8 and if at all possible go for the 4.4 over the 3.6. 

So a dilemma. Do I but the 3.6 with cash or do I take a loan for a 4.4.

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How many miles a year do you do?

If it's lowish miles, get an older 4.2SC and put the savings towards petrol? The Jag 4.4 petrol is supposed to be the most reliable L322, followed by the 4.2SC...

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1 hour ago, =jon= said:

How many miles a year do you do?

About 30k. But I am getting my P38 and my Disco back on the road with the intention of sharing the milage around 4 cars. A V8 petrol doesn't scare me but I was told to avoid them due to overheating complictions.

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I *think* the overheating is in the BMW engined ones - they ran very hot as standard so any cooling system issues would push them over the edge..

In the guides on fullfatrr.com the jag petrol engined ones are supposed to be a lot more reliable than the diesels (apart from the 5.0 SC with it's cam tensioner issues). 

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Just remember they are all getting old now,so the known problems will change.Rust is becoming a factor to consider too.Loom faults from thin,poorly protected wiring can be difficult to trace,and turbo / EGR faults on the diesels never seem far away. But then I only see the broken ones...

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5 hours ago, Ally V8 said:

Just remember they are all getting old now,so the known problems will change.Rust is becoming a factor to consider too.Loom faults from thin,poorly protected wiring can be difficult to trace,and turbo / EGR faults on the diesels never seem far away. But then I only see the broken ones...

Electrical issues with my 2002 that I kept chasing round were the reason I changed to a newer one

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Was initially thinking a budget of £5k but am now thinking £15k+ and get a lowish milage 2010 or newer. 

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1 hour ago, Simon_CSK said:

Was initially thinking a budget of £5k but am now thinking £15k+ and get a lowish milage 2010 or newer. 

Even that is fraught with problems unless you are very lucky.I currently have a 2009 TDV8 Sport in to sort out for its owner.(Who has had RR's since the early 70's) Low enough mileage at 68,000, and well looked after.Has recurring turbo actuator faults,leaky ACE bar on the rear and PDC faults. Just got rid of a 2010 L322 TDv8, again low mileage,well looked after etc. Rusty arches,inner sills and a very scabby chassis.Also had front PDC ,ABS/TC and random alarm trigger issues.The low coolant sensor failed the last time I drove it back to its owner who gave up and sold it via one of the internet buy any cr-p sites.

Like I said,I tend to see the bad ones,but blimey -They are bad,not because they have been farmered like a 300Tdi Defender,they are made of poor quality parts and are poorly finished.

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