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Originally I wasn’t concerned about the space taken up by an inward-opening door but the more I think about it the more I think it would bother me enough that having the door left open would be a bit of a nuisance.

I’ll see what options there are for restraining an outward-opening door. I know that you can get restrictors that mount in the frame plus there’s the good old fashioned cabin hooks, although they’d need to be fairly long. If there a satisfactory solution then I’ll go outward opening, if not then I’ll go inward. Thanks all.

Hopefully the builders merchants will reopen soon and I can get it finished. The only work I might be able to do in the meantime is some painting, I’ve got the paint for the walls so could do the ones I’ve boarded and if I can get it delivered I could do the floor too.

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4 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:

I’ll see what options there are for restraining an outward-opening door. I know that you can get restrictors that mount in the frame plus there’s the good old fashioned cabin hooks, although they’d need to be fairly long. If there a satisfactory solution then I’ll go outward opening, if not then I’ll go inward. Thanks all.

One of the old-school door closers may just work here, and you can always prop it open if you wanted.

 

e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/briton-1120b-overhead-door-closer-silver/24619

 

I didn't pick the cheapest one Screwfix has, as it is bound to be junk.

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Outwards definitely. Regardless of what you think now, the door will be in the way at some point in the future if it opens inwards.

I have just had a garage built with double UPVC doors at the back and the builder fitted them at my request so that they can fold back against the outside wall. Absolutely no issues with weatherproofness. Standard door hinges - nothing special.

This is in a rendered concrete block structure but I cannot see it being a problem for you if you get the details and sealant correct.

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43 minutes ago, bishbosh said:

Outwards definitely. Regardless of what you think now, the door will be in the way at some point in the future if it opens inwards.

I have just had a garage built with double UPVC doors at the back and the builder fitted them at my request so that they can fold back against the outside wall. Absolutely no issues with weatherproofness. Standard door hinges - nothing special.

This is in a rendered concrete block structure but I cannot see it being a problem for you if you get the details and sealant correct.

Sounds like we need another workshop build thread :D 

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Not a very exciting thread - gave a builder a drawing and a sack of cash and he built me a double garage. :)

Only problem is it currently only has one light switch and one double socket, neither in particularly useful locations!

I do have a box of electrikery to install once I finish my chores around the house and garden.....

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I’ve got one of those too :D

BBE8D6FF-8707-4408-A5C2-CF637042BA4C.thumb.jpeg.56c811de32765814c31b9b5f8bfe2d69.jpeg

Got a quote from a spark to run the power out from the house. A bit more than expected as unfortunately the consumer unit setup I’ve got means I’ll need a separate feed direct off the meter. The benefit is that I’ll not then be limited by capacity in the existing setup so I can have a nice 63A dedicated supply out to the garage.

It’ll be a little while until he can come do it for obvious reasons, so this weekend will mostly be painting stuff I think. 

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3 hours ago, Anderzander said:

It looks very professional.

can we see the results of the work done inside ? 😊

Will get a picture today after the second coat is on.

 

3 hours ago, Arjan said:

Very, very nice !

You could do this for a living....

Thanks, but not at this rate of progress! :ph34r:

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On 4/24/2020 at 3:18 PM, Retroanaconda said:

Got a quote from a spark to run the power out from the house. A bit more than expected as unfortunately the consumer unit setup I’ve got means I’ll need a separate feed direct off the meter. The benefit is that I’ll not then be limited by capacity in the existing setup so I can have a nice 63A dedicated supply out to the garage.

Can you save dosh by running the cable yourself and just getting the spark to connect the ends? Or just get him to install a 2nd consumer unit next to the meter for "future use" and do the rest yourself?

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Maybe, but part of what I’m paying for is all the calculation and assurance with regard to capacity, earth bonding etc. and so I’m happy for him to specify it all and install it. It’s also only fair as he has to sign off on it. The labour is a surprisingly small amount of the quote as it happens. Terminating SWA is also a horrible job!

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The electrician’s job is pretty simple in this situation if I’m honest and if you have a decent brain you can quite easily do it yourself, however, if it’s under planning it has to signed off.

If you don’t have a friendly electrician who knows your work then you’re paying for the ticket at the end.

It’s not rocket science for domestic installs, commercial is a different ball game.

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56 minutes ago, Badger110 said:

It’s not rocket science for domestic installs, commercial is a different ball game.

Indeed, which is why I will do all the circuits in the workshop myself. 

Yes I probably could do it myself but as it involves playing with the live feed off the meter then I’m happy to let someone else have that fun. No sign off actually necessary (no ‘Part P’ requirements under building regs in Scotland) but having a certificate for at least part of the installation does no harm. 

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There is no live work.

80/100 amp fuse is pulled before tails from meter to a new metal JB for the connection of the SWA which runs to your new CU. Obviously it’s all done back to front and the connection is the last bit ;)

 

I’m not savvy on Scottish building regs, so you don’t need a ticket for electrical works on planning builds?
 


 

 

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Okay, we’re on technicalities now. Personally pulling the 100A fuse which is connected directly to the supplying transformer counts as ‘live work’ to me. 

Planning permission is not relevant, the requirement for electrical work certification (either through a self-certified scheme or by local authority inspection) is under the building regulations. It only applies to work that has been carried out under a building warrant, for this category of building this being the case only where the floor area exceeds 30 square metres or it is within 1m of the house and the boundary. I’m under the area requirement and far enough from the house so no issues. 

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 Live work in my opinion is working on live cables from distribution to the meter/isolator, after that you isolate the supply, therefore not live. 

It’s horses for courses, what you’re happy doing, you do 

 

 

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The meter tails either go direct to the consumer unit or into an isolator that is "contractor sealed" on the incomer and consumer on the outgoing. The 80/100a fuse is before the meter.

A DIY job to provide a feed to the secondary CU for the workshop would really only be possible if you have that isolator in place and can then add some sort of junction that will allow the extra pair of cables into that second CU. If you don't have that isolator in place, then you are going to do it "live" off the meter. That means pulling the supply company's fuse and which can be done but not without some 1000V gloves.

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