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Gazzar

Starting turning on an old lathe

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Thanks Al.

The grinder it is. I've a test version, so if I foul it up, no loss.

I'll get the measurements of the inserts I have and try cross reference these to tool holders, I like the trick of keeping the shins and holders together, but think the 4 way quick change thing is the way forward.

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2 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Thanks Al.

The grinder it is. I've a test version, so if I foul it up, no loss.

I'll get the measurements of the inserts I have and try cross reference these to tool holders, I like the trick of keeping the shins and holders together, but think the 4 way quick change thing is the way forward.

Not sure if its the right size, but this type of quick change toolpost is my favourite: https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/spindle-nose-and-workholding/quick-change-toolposts/t-1-quick-change-toolpost/p/ZT1125189X?istCompanyId=6aa6787b-063e-4414-802d-129f235df603&istItemId=-mrqlltlam&istBid=t&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=affiliate&pub_w_id=8739971&utm_campaign=affiliates&cjevent=292642085f8111e9826802c70a180514

Rather than the quick change ones which turn round 90Deg at a time with some kind of ratchet.

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3 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

I really like the look of the Multifix that Abom uses

Me too, but it's a weeee bit spendy compared to the other flavours!

My lathe came with a Dickson type one (RDG Tools have them) and I wouldn't be without it.

post-22-0-35750800-1415904311.jpg

 

RDG tools are pretty good value for reasonable quality gear - not ABOM / This Old Tony quality but equally not awful Chinese tat. Likewise Chronos.

I've never bothered faffing with the (dead) coolant pump, not sure how necessary they are?

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Yep, I'd settle for the Dickson type given the price! 

I'd not bother with flood coolant. Running carbide it's completely unnecessary; running HSS is fine with some decent neat cutting oil and a brush or squirty can. 

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IMO coolant rather than oil etc. The main thing with a coolant pump rather than brush/squirty bottle is the time when you've got both hands busy and want a bit more coolant. 

35 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

I really like the look of the Multifix that Abom uses:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F12009553729%3Fiid%3D333134781994

Available in different sizes to suit the machine. 

Not used that type myself, looks good! One thing I always liked about The RDG one is that you could sometimes have two tools on the go. Not so useful in a home workshop environment mind ;) 

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I almost always run with coolant on slow, mainly as I don't want covering in it. Especially useful with stainless. My lathe has a Warco coolant kit on it and works fine, you get the tank, pump, single flexible nozzle and pipework but is a bit spendy. My mill has a submersible pump in an old drum of coolant, it runs 6 jets and cools the bearings no problem. Certainly a cheaper way of doing it if you can pick a pump up second hand.

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4 minutes ago, Cynic-al said:

I almost always run with coolant on slow, mainly as I don't want covering in it. Especially useful with stainless. My lathe has a Warco coolant kit on it and works fine, you get the tank, pump, single flexible nozzle and pipework but is a bit spendy. My mill has a submersible pump in an old drum of coolant, it runs 6 jets and cools the bearings no problem. Certainly a cheaper way of doing it if you can pick a pump up second hand.

Id cut everything with coolant, everything but brass and ali-bronze which prefer going in dry :ph34r: 

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The electrics remain an issue. If I start the lathe cold in high speed, it trips the house supply MCB that takes the power to the workshop. Which is an old school RCD, 30mA, connected to a Henley block to the main isolation switch.

It also tripped the workshop CU master, but not it's own circuit breaker.

Is that consistent with an in-rush current for a large motor, or something more sinister?

I'll swap out the trips this weekend, re-wire the motor connections to the forward/reverse electrical box. 

I also want to check the society to lathe cable, make sure it's chunky enough, and that I've proper crimped terminals.

Fun! 

Oh, and thanks for the "this old Tony" suggestion, it's very good. I now want a metal shaper and a surface grinder. As well as a mill.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

rcd or mcb? and fyi, if you only have a rcd at the source end of a feed to the garage, then you have no overcurrent protection, only earth fault protection, which is dangerous... 

 

ignoring that, a decent sized ( but not too big for the conductor sizej RCBO would solve your issue.

 

if you actually have a mcb thats tripping, then changing it for a d type should stop the inrush from tripping it. if its a rcd thats tripping id be more concerned. 

Edited by qwakers

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Dixon type used to be my favourite, but then I got my Schaublin.  That came with a multifix which at first at was quite keen to move on.  However after using it for a while, I've actually grown to prefer it to the Dixon on my Boxford, and am now thinking about changing out that one instead.  Rotagrip stock genuine multifix and chinese copies.

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I think I need help writing the motor. The lathe has an electrical reverse switch.

This has three pairs of terminals.

In direction 1, two input terminals connect to the straight opposite output terminals (all four are connected.

The third pair also connect straight across.

In direction 2, two terminals connect with the diagonally opposite terminals and the third likewise.

IMG_20190419_181103.jpg

IMG_20190419_181054.jpg

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The motor, has a six terminal block, with two hard links turning it into 4 terminals.

The advice I've seen suggests remove the links, and have two pairs of L&N coming from the direction switch.

But I don't think my direction switch gives me that. It just reverses polarity.

I think. 

 

IMG_20190419_170132.jpg

IMG_20190419_181628.jpg

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But it does have a start capacitor, which should stop the in-rush surge!

 

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I think my drum switch (that's what the forward/reverse switch is called), is not standard.  I think I'll do some playing with it, as I see that they CAN be configured for what I want.

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Better pictures.

I need help with this, I think.

IMG_20190419_184327.jpg

IMG_20190419_184248.jpg

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4 hours ago, Gazzar said:

But it does have a start capacitor, which should stop the in-rush surge!

 

Ah. No. I'm wrong. It's a capacitor start capacitor run motor. This doesn't mean soft start.

Right. Two parts to this problem.

1) how do I get the motor to run backwards without having to do those little bus bars.

2) how do I reconfigure the drum switch to standard.

I think that if I solve 2, then 1 will follow as then the drum switch becomes the little bars.

Fun! For another day.

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To change the motor direction I think you would buy a specific three position switch that does the combination for you, swapping those bars over through a stop position.

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Yes, a new drum switch is  one option.   The challenge is connecting this to the direction lever on the main saddle; this lathe has a lever at the saddle that operates the drum switch at the motor.

Which is why I think I've to reconfigure the original drum switch, if I can.

 

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To do things one at a time have you wired the motor direct for forwards without the switch to see if you can solve your problem of the house electrics tripping out? 

 

I could be completely misinterpreting what your saying with the switch so please check don't just go along with me but would this do it?

 

15559186782175182238192693844492.jpg

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I think the rewire, and new trip did the trick. It's running at full speed. 

1130, if the motor plate isn't lying. I must buy a tacho gun.

I think it's the first in rush that does it. If I run the machine in neutral first I should be fine.

I'll think about the drum switch in a bit. I need to scribble some writing diagrams to get my head around it.

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It spins

IMG_20190422_111836.jpg

IMG_20190422_111757.jpg

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More questions:

How do I use the lathe to drill a hole in a bar? 

I tried with a drill bit and found it difficult to center the bit.

IMG_20190422_143020.jpg

IMG_20190422_144840.jpg

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