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neilc

Series 3 exhaust , do I need to use exhaust paste?

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Posted (edited)

I've fitted a few exhaust back boxes etc over the years , they were all ones where pipes slid into pipes and were clamped . On all these occasions I used paste , my complete series 3 exhaust came today ( more excited than I should be about a piece of metal ) and all the pieces are either face to face with gaskets or they use the what I think is called the olive ring connection , do I need to use paste , I know I probably should but if not necessary I won't , Nearly ready for MOT !!!   Oh and also could anyone please advice re the nut size of the 3 bolts on the downpipe from manifold please , I can't get one to fit  

 

Thanks 

Edited by neilc

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17 minutes ago, neilc said:

I've fitted a few exhaust back boxes etc over the years , they were all ones where pipes slid into pipes and were clamped . On all these occasions I used paste , my complete series 3 exhaust came today ( more excited than I should be about a piece of metal ) and all the pieces are either face to face with gaskets or they use the what I think is called the olive ring connection , do I need to use paste , I know I probably should but if not necessary I won't , Nearly ready for MOT !!!   Oh and also could anyone please advice re the nut size of the 3 bolts on the downpipe from manifold please , I can't get one to fit  

 

Thanks 

Ive just taken my exhaust off my series 2a and tgey were no.13 

Didn't seem to be any paste or hint of there being any at any point on mine, there was a gasket on the rear pipe to back box ( called a washer on most sites) and I'll probably wellseal that one. 

Do you know how to get the front pipe off? Is it up through the engine bay? 

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When you say what size nut, do you mean thread or head size?  It could be that the thread on the bolt is knackered - I would always replace those and then refit with brass nuts.  Last one I did I used a light smear of paste but it's probably fine without.

Front pipe from underneath (I think - was a little while ago) but it is awkward (that I do remember), assuming this is a 2.25 petrol.

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Sorry , I was literally talking about the spanner size , I think I will use a nut splitter to split the nuts as I really don't want the stud snapping off , its difficult enough to get to the nuts without having to drill the studs out as well. Thanks , ive bought a fitting kit so ill have a look whats in there .

2a-Egg , from what ive seen/read it is from underneath thats what ill be trying first.

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7 minutes ago, neilc said:

Sorry , I was literally talking about the spanner size , I think I will use a nut splitter to split the nuts as I really don't want the stud snapping off , its difficult enough to get to the nuts without having to drill the studs out as well. Thanks , ive bought a fitting kit so ill have a look whats in there .

2a-Egg , from what ive seen/read it is from underneath thats what ill be trying first.

I was under mine this evening. All manor of carp falling onto my face, a few swear words and the exhaust getting so far then getting stuck. Unsure if it goes down then forward pr towards the rear... Haha

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No paste required unless you have an old section of pipe with corroded or damaged joint.

I'd hazard a guess at the nuts being 9/16", but could well be a bit bigger.

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Crashing this post, put my new stainless exhaust on today.  Has a lovely throaty rasp now and I'm sure it's breathing better.  The only shiny bit on it!!

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58 minutes ago, jordan_meakin said:

Crashing this post, put my new stainless exhaust on today.  Has a lovely throaty rasp now and I'm sure it's breathing better.  The only shiny bit on it!!

How easy was it to get the front pipe on did you do it with the truck on the ground? 

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To be honest, I didn't pay much attention, just did it.  Used axle stands to give a bit of height but that does make reaching the studs from the ground a stretch.  It's a little awkward but perfectly doable.

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Ok , just an update for you , nut splitters are sh*ite I bought one yesterday , it broke..... Yesterday but not before it slipped and cut into the thread of the stud . I did however manage to remove all of the studs this morning ( the one at the back is fiddly ) there is enough of the thread to get 2 new bolts over the existing one so I used this method,

 

 

It was amazing 

A ratchet spanner , 13mm on the back was handy because there is very little space to move a spanner so youre moving it a very small amount at a time .

Believe me if you didn't know about this already (and I didn't ) it does work 

 

 

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Is there any reason why these bolts won't work instead of studs/nuts , they are made of zinc ? Is that good or bad ??

IMG_20190413_182617251.jpg

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10 hours ago, jordan_meakin said:

To be honest, I didn't pay much attention, just did it.  Used axle stands to give a bit of height but that does make reaching the studs from the ground a stretch.  It's a little awkward but perfectly doable.

I ended up getting it off without Jacking it up, wheels on full lock right and a little swearing and it came out ha. 

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37 minutes ago, neilc said:

Is there any reason why these bolts won't work instead of studs/nuts , they are made of zinc ? Is that good or bad ??

IMG_20190413_182617251.jpg

I doubt they are made of zinc. Probably zinc passivated. Or, looking at them, brass?

Do you mean for the manifold to engine mounting?

I think the heat in the manifold might cause them to expand and contract in weird ways, and the little unthreaded bit on the proper studs helps locate the manifold.

Otherwise Landrover would have done the bolt thing.

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No it's manifold to downpipe , can anyone suggest an alternative , to be fair the bolts didn't come of the studs as you can see they all came out together , I could just lubricate the old ones and put them back in , the fact that I couldn't get the nuts off the studs could be an advantage. Still easier to use bolts if anyone can recommend , thanks 

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They should be fine. Use copper grease.

Tighten nothing until it's all right, then tighten all a little bit. Check, repeat.

 

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Gazzar , the ones I have or the ones suggested? 

 

Thanks 

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I am sure you would be best using the standard studs and double depth brass nuts.  They will always come undone in the future.  If your existing studs are corroded replace them with new ones.

Peter

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Put some new ones in, you'll thank yourself next time you come to take it apart. Either the new studs and brass nuts, or stainless and assemble with milk of magnesia (yes, the stuff you get off the shelf in a pharmacy) as an anti seize. It's quite incredible how good a high temp anti seize compound it is, particularly on stainless! I've been using for years now, and I'm still surprised by how easily my exhaust fasteners come apart. Was a tip from a turbine engineer. 

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Wow! Amazing tip.

Thanks. I would never have considered that.

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