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2a-Egg

Downpipe studs

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Soaked them for a while and they still won't move. 

Anyone got any magical ways of removing these, they're rusted out and taking the nuts off when removing the exhaust has damaged the thread. 

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Have you got the manifold on the bench? 

Can you weld? If so, the absolute best way is to chop the studs so a ~1/4" is left sticking out, then weld an oversize nut on the end getting as much heat into it as you can possibly manage. The end of the stud being half way inside the nut is perfect as it let's you pool weld in and get plenty of heat. Ideally the whole nut will be red hot. Leave to cool - if you try turning while hot it'll just shear - and turn back and forth. If you try just wrenching it out one way its bound to break. 

If you can't weld... Two nuts to form a lock nut, wind them up tight, heat the manifold with the most powerful torch you can muster and try the tighten/loosen/repeat trick. 

Short of that, it's the old cut off, drill and tap routine. They're not usually inclined to come loose without heat, if at all. 

Good luck! 

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11 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

Have you got the manifold on the bench? 

Can you weld? If so, the absolute best way is to chop the studs so a ~1/4" is left sticking out, then weld an oversize nut on the end getting as much heat into it as you can possibly manage. The end of the stud being half way inside the nut is perfect as it let's you pool weld in and get plenty of heat. Ideally the whole nut will be red hot. Leave to cool - if you try turning while hot it'll just shear - and turn back and forth. If you try just wrenching it out one way its bound to break. 

If you can't weld... Two nuts to form a lock nut, wind them up tight, heat the manifold with the most powerful torch you can muster and try the tighten/loosen/repeat trick. 

Short of that, it's the old cut off, drill and tap routine. They're not usually inclined to come loose without heat, if at all. 

Good luck! 

Ah cock... In a word.. As i am not a welder. 

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Posted (edited)

Drill them out and helicoil is an option. I did this on the manifolds on my 90. You'd have to track down some Imperial helicoils with the correct thread for the standard series studs or go metric and move to m8 threaded studs used in more recent LR products

Edited by Quagmire

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, jordan_meakin said:

I just used heat and lock grips, damages the thread but was replacing anyway.

What im trying as I type.. One out. 

Edited by 2a-Egg

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Just put the new exhaust brackets on and noticed a bit of oil on the below, is there a seal for this or could it coming from somewhere else the dripping off this? 

DSC-2261.jpg

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Could be coming from anywhere in that region - gearbox, transfer, output seals etc.  If it's leaking a lot, try cleaning it all off to see if you can trace it back to the source.  Typical area that Landys self lubricate underneath!

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6 minutes ago, jordan_meakin said:

Could be coming from anywhere in that region - gearbox, transfer, output seals etc.  If it's leaking a lot, try cleaning it all off to see if you can trace it back to the source.  Typical area that Landys self lubricate underneath!

Haha true damn annoying as its filthy under there.. Almost need to jack it uo and pressure wash it... 

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49 minutes ago, jordan_meakin said:

Might be a good idea - get the goggles and waders on!!

Mates got a pit so might be worth rolling it over that 

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Well that went wrong... New exhaust manifold it is haha. Ahwell I tried.... 

  • Sad 1

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The steel plate of the transfer box should have a gasket.  The drain plug uses a copper washer.  They still both seem to weep, though.  The cast aluminium bottom plate from Rocky Mountain/ Roamerdrive seals better as it's stiffer than the steel plate and also expands and contracts with temperature at the same rathe as the transfer casing as it's similar material.  I still have a tiny amount of oil sweating through the gasket all the same, but it's a lot better.  You could use RTV sealant in place of the gasket - it can't do a worse job - and you could try plumber's PTFE tape on the plug threads.

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19 hours ago, Snagger said:

The steel plate of the transfer box should have a gasket.  The drain plug uses a copper washer.  They still both seem to weep, though.  The cast aluminium bottom plate from Rocky Mountain/ Roamerdrive seals better as it's stiffer than the steel plate and also expands and contracts with temperature at the same rathe as the transfer casing as it's similar material.  I still have a tiny amount of oil sweating through the gasket all the same, but it's a lot better.  You could use RTV sealant in place of the gasket - it can't do a worse job - and you could try plumber's PTFE tape on the plug threads.

Was thinking of something like this. Will add it to the list... 

 

Unfortunately one stud decided it did not want to come out, snaped twice after heating / cooling etc, then wouldn't drill out at all. New manifold luckily osnt a massive expense. So will have that by the weekend I hope 

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New exhauat manifold is waiting at home for me, so know my weekend jobs now.. 

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